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Hi Phill the guys on here have had many experiences with different shafts I think it comes down to budget what type of driving ,racing touring etc but if you can’t find out with the search option here  googles your friend loads of opinions 

good luck

Nick

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Thanks for that I have looked at comments on the forum and there are varying opinions. CCD are highly recommended (recently but earlier comments in 2003 on other club sites hint at knocking problems) but they are far more expensive than others. Prices range between £1000 delivered to around £1500 plus carriage. I always do due diligence when dishing out large sums of money and I noticed CDD had a "Compulsory strike-off action" against them by companies house. This appears to have been discontinued but it makes one wonder.

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I have the Quaiffe designed with Cosworth stubs from Dennis Vessey and added the uprated shafts that are readily available and all seems fine so far to me-was not cheap and may be overkill but then what price does one put on safety? Shame after spending the money that you cannot even see the quality parts fitted- same as gorgeous new alloy fuel tank hidden away.

 

2020-07-04 12.49.56~2.jpg

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5 minutes ago, michaeldavis39 said:

I have the Quaiffe designed with Cosworth stubs from Dennis Vessey and added the uprated shafts that are readily available and all seems fine so far to me-was not cheap and may be overkill but then what price does one put on safety? Shame after spending the money that you cannot even see the quality parts fitted- same as gorgeous new alloy fuel tank hidden away.

 

2020-07-04 12.49.56~2.jpg

Youve made the best choice in my opinion. They are actually sold by Racetorations now https://www.racetorations.co.uk/product/fast-road-race-rear-hub-driveshaft-assembly-tr4a-6/

Stuart.

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I am not into racing etc, just gentle touring. The drive shafts I have are reconditioed ones and are ok, but with all the hype on the forum about hub failure I thought I would invest in a pair of CV shafts and new hubs.

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2 hours ago, Phil Read said:

I am not into racing etc, just gentle touring. The drive shafts I have are reconditioed ones and are ok, but with all the hype on the forum about hub failure I thought I would invest in a pair of CV shafts and new hubs.

Not necessarily hype Phil but I think that only recon hubs fail. It takes upwards of 20 tons to split the hub to replace bearings which stresses the axle.

I believe original hubs will be fine. I think I'm down to my last spare so when that's gone I expect to be joining the new hub club.

Nothing wrong with original driveshafts. Replace the u/j's when they wear & grease the splines.

I drive my 5 like I stole it most of the time.

Jerry

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1 hour ago, jerrytr5 said:

Not necessarily hype Phil but I think that only recon hubs fail. It takes upwards of 20 tons to split the hub to replace bearings which stresses the axle.

I believe original hubs will be fine. I think I'm down to my last spare so when that's gone I expect to be joining the new hub club.

Nothing wrong with original driveshafts. Replace the u/j's when they wear & grease the splines.

I drive my 5 like I stole it most of the time.

Jerry

Originals have been known to fail as well, trouble is you dont know the history of them, have they had a heavy contact with a kerb or something else immovable in their previous life.

Stuart.

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8 hours ago, Phil Read said:

I am not into racing etc, just gentle touring. The drive shafts I have are reconditioed ones and are ok, but with all the hype on the forum about hub failure I thought I would invest in a pair of CV shafts and new hubs.

I’m not sure what you can really do to recondition the drive shafts other than replace the U/Js. Once the sliding elements are worn, the only option is to replace them. New originals, if they turn up are not as good as the ones made & sold by Proptec which have a Teflon like coating that helps stop them locking up which the originals lack. If the hubs are in need of rebuilding, resist unless a new stub axle is used. (They will be 50 years old or more and a stress fracture waiting to happen especially if excessive force is required to separate the old unit). You can buy new hubs or better the Cosworth derived ones.

Ultimately it is more cost effective to go for the CV jointed ones from various makers which come with new hubs of modern vehicle derivation. My experience is with the Classic Driving Developments ones on the 4a, 6 and Stag and had no issues bar a perished gaiter on the 6.


 

 

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