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TR3 still stalling at junctions.


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Hello everyone 

Yes my 59 TR3a is still stalling at junctions. It happens when coming to a halt under braking. When I depress the clutch into neutral, the revs frop off and the engine stalls. I've tried putting it in neutral at speed but then it just idles as it should. Is it possible that the braking is involved somehow? I think it's going to be either fuel starvation or spark deprivation?

The car idles absolutely fine at all other times.

Many thanks

Clive

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Hi Clive

a few things that could do it.

tick over revs too low - stay around 800rpm

Weak mixture

Dicky plugs

If you have SU carbs check the oil level in the dampers

Worn linkage. The balls on the connectors can get flats worn on them 

 

Roger

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Echo Roger's suggestion of oil level in the dampers. Our Stag exhibited exactly this situation - to solve that on the Strombergs I had to fit new seals.

Without the damping effect the revs fall too quickly and the engine stops

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I had the same problem last week stalling when stopping, tick over was correct checked the dash pots and oil was low topped up been to fill up with fuel ️ today and did lots of stop starts and running as see should no stalling.

Mike Redrose Group 

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Ahh, I can answer this. 

Under heavy braking, even lighter braking, the carbs get starved of fuel. My TR2 has done this for 49 years. My TR3 with electric fuel pumps doesn't.

I have developed a skill at braking and keeping the revs up, especially when the engine is not fully warmed up.

I've driven quite a few TRs, they have nearly all done it.

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20 minutes ago, John McCormack said:

Ahh, I can answer this. 

Under heavy braking, even lighter braking, the carbs get starved of fuel. My TR2 has done this for 49 years. My TR3 with electric fuel pumps doesn't.

I have developed a skill at braking and keeping the revs up, especially when the engine is not fully warmed up.

I've driven quite a few TRs, they have nearly all done it.

Exactly like mine John, until fully warmed up it wanted to stall when braking for a junction. But when really hot after a long run it had a tendency to tick over too fast. I have had to accept this as and attempt to reduce the tick over at hot makes the stalling worse when cold, although recently I have got the fast tickover cam on the carbs set correctly and now I can leave the choke knob out slightly to stop it stalling when cold. 

Ralph

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Advance the ignition a couple of degrees.

It worked for me.   Lifted the tick over by 50-100 rpm max but resolved the dying after braking to a stop.

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I returned home yesterday after a 6 week trip to the USA and Canada. The TR2 started first touch of the button. 

To expand on what I posted earlier, I don't use the choke to increase idle revs when cold. I start her up and push the choke all the way in after about 15 seconds.

Obviously the engine won't idle straight away but once the temp gauge moves off the bottom the engine will reduce revs under braking but still idle, slowly. If I hit the brakes hard it might stall.

Once fully warmed up it will reduce revs under heavy braking but not enough to stall.

 

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13 hours ago, Smithfire67 said:

Seems to be commonly acknowledged as a thing this stalling under braking. Can totally see why a TR2 without electric fuel pumps would do it....but not my 3a?

Some interesting points being made here which I'll follow up on.

Clive

What would be the difference between the TR2 and 3A? Unless the 3A has electric fuel pumps they are essentially the same fuel system.

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