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Hi Folks,

Today I was trying to  re-fit my NS front wing (TR4A) . The three screws on the 'A' post have been a challenge. 

So my grey cells started creating (usually very messy)   Would it not be beneficial to fit studs in the screw holes and then only nuts would be required in the 'A' post confined space 

OR -  If the screws that go into these holes had a plain shank to help align then life may be easier.

Option 'B' will be tried tomorrow.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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If you use "Self starting" i.e. pointy bolts then its easier to get them to line up.

Stuart.

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Cone or dog pointed screws are what you need to use.

HU 706P was originally specified.

  Or HU706D if you can find them    In stainless and quantities under 1 million.

To convert the screws you have simply fit a nut, hold nut and bolt hexagons in the lathe chuck and turn the threaded end to the shape you fancy.

The dog pointed and drilled screws I conververted from regulator flange headed ones to fit the rear hub to the Girling axle.

9982713E-B0D0-48F0-87AE-4F4EB8604AAF.jpeg

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I have a device for chamfering the end of bolts. It fits in my electric drill. Means that I can buy stainless bolts and sharpen them to make fitting easier. 

Rgds Ian

https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/7510/External-Deburr-Chamfer-Tool-3-19mm

 

Edited by Ian Vincent
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This is a little tool I made up to hold 1/4 in screws in the lathe for dog pointing or similar. Anything like this helps when you are cutting stainless. 
Keith

IMG_2746.jpeg

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Hi Folks,

I bought some longer screws the other day but before turning a nose on them I found an issue.

So I rifled through my odds and sods and found three 1.5" long screws and turned a 3/8" nose on the end.

Did they fit !!!!    Like a dream. The nose fitted a treat and alugned the n ut so the thread could take hold.

I decided not to use the HU706 style screw as I was not confident it would align enough.

 

Roger

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