Jump to content

TR3A 1959 Smiths heater wiring


Recommended Posts

Hi

can anyone help with my heater wiring. It is not connected and there is no heater switch, but I can sort that when I know what the wires do.

 There are three wires coming from the bottom of the heater. A white, (cut off), a brown (disconnected) and a black seems to go off into the loom under the dash. 
photos attached. 
Thanks

Paul

IMG_2498.jpeg

IMG_2497.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites

It may be that someone has replaced the motor Paul - those wires don't seem to be standard.    There is a replacement Clayton motor which has brown and black wires so it could be one of those. 

Try +12 v on the brown, black should be earth. If the fan blows the wrong way, swap the connections over - the Clayton motor is permanent magnet so is polarity sensitive. 

The white wire may be something left over from the original motor. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Firstly I’d say that is not an original heater assembly

Two black wires to the fan motor.  One wire to power the other to earth.  On a side screen TR the heater is controlled from the battery supply through a rheostat that is from off then variable through fast down to  slow

The extra couple of wires you have are probably a direct connection to the motor and the other through an integral resistance coil.   All very TR6.  

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Firstly I’d say that is not an original heater assembly

Two black wires to the fan motor.  One wire to power the other to earth.  On a side screen TR the heater is controlled from the battery supply through a rheostat that is from off then variable through fast down to  slow

The extra couple of wires you have are probably a direct connection to the motor and the other through an integral resistance coil.   All very TR6.  

Integral resistance coil - yes there is something green inside that you can see through the open heater flap. Could be a resistor. 

IMG_2495.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, rcreweread said:

Isn’t that a 2 speed fan motor from a later TR5/6 model -

It might be but the wire colours are wrong for that according to the Advance Autowire info.

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, PXC said:

Integral resistance coil - yes there is something green inside that you can see through the open heater flap. Could be a resistor. 

IMG_2495.jpeg

Let’s go back now to the curious slide switch on your dash with 3 wires……..one power supply. The others feeding the other two wires onto the heater resistor.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Possibly connected to the slide switch. I’ll try to match up the remnants of the wires.
 

It’s definitely a Smiths motor on it, and a Smiths heater box. Looks like 15amp, FHM 4442/02.B possibly. 
 

IMG_2505.jpeg

IMG_2503.jpeg

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Firstly I’d say that is not an original heater assembly

Two black wires to the fan motor.  One wire to power the other to earth.  On a side screen TR the heater is controlled from the battery supply through a rheostat that is from off then variable through fast down to  slow

The extra couple of wires you have are probably a direct connection to the motor and the other through an integral resistance coil.   All very TR6.  

Yes the latest photos show a pair of black wires going into the motor. 
there are three wires exiting a grommet which are the three I mentioned in earlier post. The black one is one of the ones which goes back into the motor, along with another black wire. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Bob

thanks. 
As an aside - took my 3A out in the dark last night with my all new  led lighting. Superb visibility. Apart from a half hour “rest” in the petrol station with a completely dead electrical system. Was rescued by my wife with some tools and a head torch.  Solved the problem, just some loose failing wires round the fuse box/regulator. 
which leads my to another question- mine needs a full rewire - is it possible to stitch a new loom into the car bit by bit, without dismantling too much. That is, install the new loom not as part of a full strip down /rebuild?

Regards 

Paul

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Most of the loom is in the engine bay and behind the dash, I would have thought removing the dash center section and large gauges would be the minimum to rewire the car, along with removing the grille to get at the headlights sidelights and indicators. The loom to the rear runs through the interior of the car under the carpet, the fuel tank sender and earth might be a little tricky but doable without disassembly  the rear lights are easy to get at.

cheers

Alan

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, PXC said:

Hi Bob

thanks. 
As an aside - took my 3A out in the dark last night with my all new  led lighting. Superb visibility. Apart from a half hour “rest” in the petrol station with a completely dead electrical system. Was rescued by my wife with some tools and a head torch.  Solved the problem, just some loose failing wires round the fuse box/regulator. 
which leads my to another question- mine needs a full rewire - is it possible to stitch a new loom into the car bit by bit, without dismantling too much. That is, install the new loom not as part of a full strip down /rebuild?

Regards 

Paul

 

Yes, as stated above.

Be sure you have the correct wiring diagram for the model of car you are wiring.    The most commonly found issue is the change of wiper motor between self parking and non self parking type.   That change happened in TR3 so be sure to follow the TR3A diagram if you car has the self Parker, which it should as a 1959 TR3A.

.   Your car may or may not have a rheostat on the panel lights.   So don’t panic.

http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi

back to the heater motor. I have got the heater off, and the motor off. IMG_2615.thumb.jpeg.1b5246c53cf3e9c15305516d34368e8e.jpeg Eextracted it and opened it up. It’s completely burnt out - no point trying to fix that! So I’m on the look out for a replacement motor. 
and yes it does have a resistance coil inside the heater box, so I guess that makes it a two speed heater I reckon. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

I had a new one that looks just like yours.    No use to you though as it is 24 v its from a lightweight Land Rover.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, Lebro said:

My Air tansportable (Lightweight) Landie was 12V ?

Bob

landie.jpg.a27d4374877d0be5043ee54798af5cf6.jpg

Not the one my friend bought off the MOD.  It was a radio operations vehicle and had a screened ignition circuit , looked like Aeroquip braided  HT leads.   
 

https://www.lightweightlandroverclub.org/lightweight-history.html

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.