james Robertson Posted July 17 Report Share Posted July 17 (edited) Looking for some help/ advice please. I am thinking of buying a 1969 Triumph TR6. Car has been nearly fully restored- body off job etc. Owner is saying it needs "cambers" done, this is to do with the wheels. The car would have issues if it hit potholes etc. Anyone any ideas how much this might cost. What work is involved? Edited July 18 by james Robertson Location Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted July 17 Report Share Posted July 17 (edited) Welcome to the forums James. Camber is the tilt of the wheel. A wheel with negative camber tilts inwards at the top, zero camber is upright and positive camber means the wheel tilts outwards at the top. Camber affects the roadholding of the car and of course must be equal on both sides. The TR6 has an independent suspension at the rear and the trailing arms can be adjusted by means of different brackets and shims at the mounting points, to get the camber and toe-in within the makers specification - perhaps that is what he means. The cost of having that done by a specialist is a bit open-ended as it depends how much fiddling with different combinations it would take to get the adjustment right. Edited July 17 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 Welcome James, I recommend to go to a garage who is specialised in Triumph TR’s because there is specific knowledge required about the brackets at the rear-wheel trailing arms; they are marked with notches and by swapping them among each other you can alter the alignment. If a garage is not familiar with this feature it can become very time consuming and the results may not be what you expected. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 Or if you need an adjustable version rather than the notched brackets, MOSS, and others, sell an adjustable rear trailing arm bracket set, part number 852 055. As Waldi says, get an experienced Triumph TR garage to do the job. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 James - whoa! Firstly get the moderators to change the title of your post to be more relevant to the topic in question, next tell us where you are based, and thirdly contact the local TR Group nearest to you and find someone who knows TR6s to go with you to do a thorough inspection before you buy. Simply setting up the geometry of the suspension/wheels is not that simple -there are so many variables which need to be considered ie how straight is the chassis, have the trailing arm chassis rails been changed and how well have they been done. If you are then satisfied that the basic structure is sound, then I would fully endorse what others have said about using a TR Specialist to set it up, as it is a laborious and time consuming job to do properly, hence the costs can be high but very difficult to be specific about. If you are mechanically competent and enjoy a challenge, you can do it yourself and there is plenty of help/advice here on the forum, but the most important thing is not to buy a nightmare to start with. Cheers Rich Crewe-Read Colchester Essex Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 Hello James, and a warm welcome to our forum. I have altered the title of your post, to hopefully better target responses. Richard's post, above, is bang on, and very good advice, come back to us, we’ll be happy to help. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 Hi James, Welcome, and what Richard said ! BTW I'm in the middle of sorting the suspension on my 6. The rear end was straightforward, if time consuming, as you have quite a lot of adjustment potential by swapping and rotating brackets and adding shims. The front is worth a word of warning: be very careful if there is too much negative camber. You can only remove negative camber by removing shims from the lower wishbone mounting brackets and, if there are no shims, you're out of options. It's also possible you're looking at accident damage to the chassis. There are options out there (not cheap) to make the inner upper fulcrum adjustable for camber, but there are also other TR6s you could consider... Cheers, JC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 Hi James, welcome. Where are you. Help; may just be around the corner if we know where you are. All the above posts are spot on. If you are mechanically competent then refer to these guys for serious information https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ If you are just a happy driver then contact a dedicated garage for TR's Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james Robertson Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 23 hours ago, RobH said: Welcome to the forums James. Camber is the tilt of the wheel. A wheel with negative camber tilts inwards at the top, zero camber is upright and positive camber means the wheel tilts outwards at the top. Camber affects the roadholding of the car and of course must be equal on both sides. The TR6 has an independent suspension at the rear and the trailing arms can be adjusted by means of different brackets and shims at the mounting points, to get the camber and toe-in within the makers specification - perhaps that is what he means. The cost of having that done by a specialist is a bit open-ended as it depends how much fiddling with different combinations it would take to get the adjustment right. 15 hours ago, rcreweread said: James - whoa! Firstly get the moderators to change the title of your post to be more relevant to the topic in question, next tell us where you are based, and thirdly contact the local TR Group nearest to you and find someone who knows TR6s to go with you to do a thorough inspection before you buy. Simply setting up the geometry of the suspension/wheels is not that simple -there are so many variables which need to be considered ie how straight is the chassis, have the trailing arm chassis rails been changed and how well have they been done. If you are then satisfied that the basic structure is sound, then I would fully endorse what others have said about using a TR Specialist to set it up, as it is a laborious and time consuming job to do properly, hence the costs can be high but very difficult to be specific about. If you are mechanically competent and enjoy a challenge, you can do it yourself and there is plenty of help/advice here on the forum, but the most important thing is not to buy a nightmare to start with. Cheers Rich Crewe-Read Colchester Essex Thanks for the input, yes dont think I can do this myself, so should get a garage to look at this Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james Robertson Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 23 hours ago, james Robertson said: Looking for some help/ advice please. I am thinking of buying a 1969 Triumph TR6. Car has been nearly fully restored- body off job etc. Owner is saying it needs "cambers" done, this is to do with the wheels. The car would have issues if it hit potholes etc. Anyone any ideas how much this might cost. What work is involved? Glasgow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james Robertson Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 12 hours ago, RogerH said: Hi James, welcome. Where are you. Help; may just be around the corner if we know where you are. All the above posts are spot on. If you are mechanically competent then refer to these guys for serious information https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ If you are just a happy driver then contact a dedicated garage for TR's Roger Thanks Roger, I am in Glasgow, the seller is local, but is prepared to take a bit off the price. However I am a novice, and would need to go to a garage to check this over Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james Robertson Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 12 hours ago, JohnC said: Hi James, Welcome, and what Richard said ! BTW I'm in the middle of sorting the suspension on my 6. The rear end was straightforward, if time consuming, as you have quite a lot of adjustment potential by swapping and rotating brackets and adding shims. The front is worth a word of warning: be very careful if there is too much negative camber. You can only remove negative camber by removing shims from the lower wishbone mounting brackets and, if there are no shims, you're out of options. It's also possible you're looking at accident damage to the chassis. There are options out there (not cheap) to make the inner upper fulcrum adjustable for camber, but there are also other TR6s you could consider... Cheers, JC Thanks for the input. I am taking this to a garage, as I am a novice with all this,. However, I think the seller is prepared to negotiate on this as he will come down a couple of thousand ££ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james Robertson Posted July 18 Author Report Share Posted July 18 13 hours ago, John Morrison said: Hello James, and a warm welcome to our forum. I have altered the title of your post, to hopefully better target responses. Richard's post, above, is bang on, and very good advice, come back to us, we’ll be happy to help. John. Thanks, I dont want to take on an overwhelming problem, however, the rest of the car has been done, and the seller is prepared to come down in price Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted July 18 Report Share Posted July 18 James...As suggested previously, have a TR person inspect the car before you purchase. The question arises as to why the current owner has not attended to the camber problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 19 Report Share Posted July 19 Hi James, there are TR owners in Glasgow and there abouts. Contact the area co-ordinator for more info https://www.tr-register.co.uk/groups If you haven't already consider joining the club - help is usually around the corner. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted July 19 Report Share Posted July 19 James make sure he hasnt welded the brackets to the chassis hahahaa ask me how i know only kidding the guys above are right a bit fiddly and if not a seasoned car guy you might think its a bit daunting i bought all the bracket types to which there are 36 permutations and settled on one set having measured the camber with a square and a bit of trigonometry maths doing mine in the next two weeks then taking it for a four wheels tracking at the local garage to ensure its spot on hopefully using a laser all the best attached the info i use David Rear+Suspension+Geometry.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 19 Report Share Posted July 19 13 hours ago, james Robertson said: Thanks, I dont want to take on an overwhelming problem, however, the rest of the car has been done, and the seller is prepared to come down in price There is someone on here who is from Glasgow and will know what to look at, paging Ian Glasgow4a Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glasgow4a Posted July 19 Report Share Posted July 19 James. you have a PM cheers Ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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