qkingston Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 I've discovered a slight fuel leak at the join between the copper and rubber pipes in the engine bay; I have a new section of Gates rubber pipe to fit but wondered whether there is any other method of improving the joint? I've seen online comments about soldering an olive to the copper pipe, which would be fine with a new build, not so great with a line with petrol vapour/residue in perhaps. Any other suggestions? VMT David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 2 minutes ago, qkingston said: I've discovered a slight fuel leak at the join between the copper and rubber pipes in the engine bay; I have a new section of Gates rubber pipe to fit but wondered whether there is any other method of improving the joint? I've seen online comments about soldering an olive to the copper pipe, which would be fine with a new build, not so great with a line with petrol vapour/residue in perhaps. Any other suggestions? VMT David Just make sure to use the right type of Hose Fasteners for Rubber Petrol Pipe and maybe give the Copper Pipe a roughen up with a File so the rubber hose gets a better grip. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 In my opinion roughening the pipe would encourage leakage. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 David if you have new pipe, not yet cut to length then, if you are concerned, slide a bit extra down the copper - say an inch or so and fit two clips half an inch apart. Can't see you'll have an issue then John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 The rubber hose needs to have a good snug fit on the copper. The use a correct sized Jubilee type clip to clamp Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 Have had an issue with rubber hoses slipping off the bulkhead heater connection. This is due to there not being a swage or flare on the pipe I simply flared the pipe using a cheap brake pipe flaring tool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203057243107?epid=4020579829&itmmeta=01HRM7RW7VSQ0P0SZN0EDWYYYH&hash=item2f4727a3e3:g:wOYAAOSwK71gdwut&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8IzKo5vFQO5VOSC6tpBQ0JEvQi6OBBf5Cc7ur9qixqXj5NH68ai8GkVwdhKkyusSH0BkkgtgDoNDbwbrQCBvAr7SRmLY%2FGcMzHSO2BPXef8pqfxP1Wms9uJK9R7eW0fcBstyN1%2FUJ3y7JLiNV6thYjB4jOzKAjYnKxDEzgKY9KGcJcOw15b0emlhQjMSTUeMY63Q%2FbKQeqTP8D8g17UwUhOFUnLtPm%2FGB110dq07wyh0e%2F8ZAsPc1OqjSVTIVdQ66NzOnS%2B7VcigHAvexReUklSgOQ9WSGyFXenscBDL85pKFB8SFWLs6RMzdkVhW9oSHg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6TE44fFYw This will probably work on your fuel supply pipe and you will not have to remove it nor wave a flame ar it. Do a sample test to see how much flaring is needed such that the rubber hose will fit over. Do not use ‘jubilee’ type screw clips. My experience is that they will not go small enough and stay circular. Use spring type ‘mikalor or Otiker clips. They maintain spring pressure on the hose as it squishes out from below the clip. This type of kit serves me well. Use nail pincers to fit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364647402584?itmmeta=01HRM886XWZHDEBQESEZJKWVWZ&hash=item54e6adcc58:g:HGMAAOSwgl9iIc69&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8KiyuH%2BE5DWqL8A8TS5u0%2BB%2BmKOVKfxW8EJjRa2tMXPZaY0%2F%2BVKGAMcDYeddHxHOjgG%2FHI1Jj02TcXuY3wNcBKFqCk3cFNdpiOunQDuyL%2BoAltqEk1xvOl1Tnc3aR0V1YlnMpB7CMsWF6fiE%2B1F7z4pvfBisQMkwPxOVj5pGt7yK8R4SrvKJsHef03xGrJeiekdi9VHtG0QDPz7FGWjuTTvRTPuTunL7qgLKx8%2Bul5Qzj%2FGmF8uk1XXBLZ9OcYXwOBUmN4N0at4YkooJY1n7j6nvIpYiGGZG4NYqCJNBqQ0QgQZcz1ofrNRwKO52Sw%2B%2F8g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5LvoIjFYw Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 Hi Pete, I could not remember the name Mikalor - hence my 'Jubilee' type comment. Regarding the pipe grip - For copper it is easy to solder a ring of copper wire around the pipe in the gripping area. For steel pipe - one can do the same after tinning the steel Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
phil Dean Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 I thought these were the correct jubilee clips for fuel pipes. Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 5 minutes ago, phil Dean said: I thought these were the correct jubilee clips for fuel pipes. Those are indeed the correct Mikalor-style clips for fuel lines Phil. Jubilee clips are the worm-drive ones and in small sizes those do not remain properly circular because of the worm mechanism, hence they don't grip the full circumference equally. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted March 10 Author Report Share Posted March 10 Thanks guys, useful tips. I realise now that that pipe join had jubilee clips, all the others (carbs/in-line filter) have the mikalor spring clips....no leaks!! You live and learn! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulAnderson Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 19 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Have had an issue with rubber hoses slipping off the bulkhead heater connection. This is due to there not being a swage or flare on the pipe I simply flared the pipe using a cheap brake pipe flaring tool https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203057243107?epid=4020579829&itmmeta=01HRM7RW7VSQ0P0SZN0EDWYYYH&hash=item2f4727a3e3:g:wOYAAOSwK71gdwut&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8IzKo5vFQO5VOSC6tpBQ0JEvQi6OBBf5Cc7ur9qixqXj5NH68ai8GkVwdhKkyusSH0BkkgtgDoNDbwbrQCBvAr7SRmLY%2FGcMzHSO2BPXef8pqfxP1Wms9uJK9R7eW0fcBstyN1%2FUJ3y7JLiNV6thYjB4jOzKAjYnKxDEzgKY9KGcJcOw15b0emlhQjMSTUeMY63Q%2FbKQeqTP8D8g17UwUhOFUnLtPm%2FGB110dq07wyh0e%2F8ZAsPc1OqjSVTIVdQ66NzOnS%2B7VcigHAvexReUklSgOQ9WSGyFXenscBDL85pKFB8SFWLs6RMzdkVhW9oSHg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6TE44fFYw I’m having the exact same challenge in tightening the hoses after fitting a new heater valve last year. But, the bulkhead twin hose fitting (611043 adapter through bulkhead) is stainless steel in my case. I’ve just bought some Mikalor hose clips to try to better secure the hose but hadn’t thought of swaging the fitting. I imagine such wouldn’t work on stainless ? Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 (edited) The fitting I had to swage was stainless. The clamp part of the tool I have fitted snuggly and then I formed a simple flare to the tube to increase its final diameter. Be sure to remove any nicks or burrs from the tube end that could cut the hose. I have just done a dummy test on my old mild steel bulkhead fitting to flare the tube ends in the same way as I did to the stainless one I have recently fitted. i used the brake pipe tool clamp to hold the 1/2” pipe then swaged the pipe end with a conical punch ( the one I use for push rod tubes on wet liner egines) Edited March 11 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted March 12 Author Report Share Posted March 12 So I put a single male flare on the pipe it fits well into the R9 rubber pipe and secured with Mikalor clips , hopefully that's the end of that! David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 34 minutes ago, qkingston said: So I put a single male flare on the pipe it fits well into the R9 rubber pipe and secured with Mikalor clips , hopefully that's the end of that! David Spot on. That’ll fix it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tim hunt Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 On 3/11/2024 at 9:18 AM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: The fitting I had to swage was stainless. The clamp part of the tool I have fitted snuggly and then I formed a simple flare to the tube to increase its final diameter. Be sure to remove any nicks or burrs from the tube end that could cut the hose. I have just done a dummy test on my old mild steel bulkhead fitting to flare the tube ends in the same way as I did to the stainless one I have recently fitted. i used the brake pipe tool clamp to hold the 1/2” pipe then swaged the pipe end with a conical punch ( the one I use for push rod tubes on wet liner egines) Looks like the change to as stainless adaptor was overdue Peter, although in fairness my original mild steel item on the 4A was worse than yours before I finally got round to the upgrade. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glasgow4a Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 Paul, where did you purchase the bulkhead fitting 611043 in stainless steel, thanks Ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glasgow4a Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 I asked a question about bulkhead fitting 611043 in stainless steel on Sunday. I am disappointed to note i have had no replies. I have now checked with Moss to find it is NCA, cheers Ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 5 hours ago, glasgow4a said: I asked a question about bulkhead fitting 611043 in stainless steel on Sunday. I am disappointed to note i have had no replies. I have now checked with Moss to find it is NCA, cheers Ian. My research did not find any available in the UK either. Hence no response. There seems to be mild steel available in UK. Alternative is T7 Designs billet aluminium that the would need a bit of fiddling to install https://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/heater-connector-on-bulkhead-3. You could ring them and ask if they do a stainless one. https://www.t7design.co.uk/13-13mm-1-2-1-2-bulkhead-hose-adapter-narrow-c55-8d1-cc6.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted March 22 Report Share Posted March 22 (edited) Try Betaset in Paris betaset.fr They have 3 in stock! james Edited March 22 by james christie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 23 Report Share Posted March 23 18 hours ago, james christie said: Try Betaset in Paris betaset.fr They have 3 in stock! james Direct link https://www.betaset.fr/fr/chauffage/2078-passe-cloison-chauffage-tr4-airs-tr6.html Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
glasgow4a Posted March 24 Report Share Posted March 24 Thanks to all who replied to my post, [ will wait until hopefully they become available here, cheers Ian. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted March 24 Report Share Posted March 24 Snugg fit + „Norma cobra“ clips, close with an pliers (click), open with a screw driver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted April 2 Author Report Share Posted April 2 I'm replacing the short length of copper fuel pipe into the fuel pump, I have lengths of pipe but I notice that one is 7.94mm x 0.71 and the other is 7.94mm x 0.9mm, which is correct and does it make any difference (I assume wall thickness)? Many thanks David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tthomson Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 With petrol now having 10% Ethanol, (E10), the rubber pipes are better replaced by silicone. Rubber starts to distend when Ethanol is present. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qkingston Posted April 2 Author Report Share Posted April 2 I was referring to copper pipe Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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