Lo100469 Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 Hi all, thanks to your good advice on tires, hubs, vibration, voltage regulator, i could prepare the car for the trip and we made it to Toulouse, 700 miles in 2 days in the heat without any issue. Just added about 1/2 liter of oil to keep the level at 2/3, pressure around 50 at 2500rpm, goes up to 70 at 3000. i had my chief critic officer with me , and it was our first long trip with the car that is a pleasure to drive. It is really hot over here, it has not rained in weeks as you can see from the picture. Just need a quick advice. the car starts first try even after a week after 2 seconds and idles ok after a minute or 2. But i still have 2 or 3 hesitations when i drive the car from cold 2 or 3 miles from the start, maybe a bit more if i don't let the car idle for long, maybe less if I take off immediately. No backfiring sound, just a loss of power for a split second, then another one or 2 a few seconds later, and it goes away. I 'm on Weber 40 DCOE (i never use the enrichment system), mechanical fuel pump (clear bowl), new inline filter between pump and carbs), 123 electronic ignition, original belt drive and dynamo, battery is fully charged, new hot wires (no difference). I was hoping it would go away after a few tanks of fresh 98 but no change. I'm tempted to leave it like that as the car does it since April and it is not getting worse, could it be the Weber's needing some heat to help with proper vaporisation? When hot everything works fine, with just a small hesitation from low RPM on light throttle that seems to be common with Weber. if i give more gas, they run great at any RPM. Cheers from Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 What inline filter are you using as some are quite restrictive. Check your float heights. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 Hi Laurent, ain't this mainly good news?!? This nice "petrol filter" caused my massiv problems 2 years ago And a "Power Spark" eletronic braker too, because I let the ignition on too long on with the engine not running. The petrol should not been stolen from your tank Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 Could it be running slightly weak - OK when hot, Iffy when cold !!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harlequin Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 47 minutes ago, Z320 said: Hi Laurent, ain't this mainly good news?!? This nice "petrol filter" caused my massiv problems 2 years ago Ciao, Marco I had the same trouble with an inline filter, the nylon mesh of the element closed up in hot weather starving the engine of fuel. George Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 (edited) This filter sadly is a fantasy product … I find it on every market and it will cause lots of owners serious trouble the next years. The post „kick it in the bin“ is worth to be pinned here. Edited August 1, 2022 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 You say you don't use the cold start enrichment system - perhaps that is the reason it hesitates. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lo100469 Posted August 1, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 Marco, Yes this is good news! and your anti theft device kept everyone away from the fuel tank Marco, Stuart, I'm using a cheap plastic inline filter, i have a spare from my dealer with me just in case, i think they are like 4euro a piece. I will keep an eye on it then and see if i ditch it this winter. I'm still not sure why everyone seems to fit one while there is a filter in the bowl and each Weber has its own mech filter too. It seems like many had issues with those filters and the steel shiny ones seem to be even worse. Not sure if anyone produces a quality one. Bob, i have been told not to use it because they work like a little carb and can be stuck open and cause the engine to run way to rich. I don't know when/if the carbs have been rebuilt. So i pump to a max of 6 times and the car always starts on the first try. As roger says maybe i'm just on the limit when cold and there are a couple of hiccups then i'm ok when hot. I will check the plugs, keep going like this and probably have the carbs cleaned and refurbished when home. I also have an original AC pump i will have fit to replace the aftermarket one I have. I will make a few checks then and see how that goes. Thanks again, Hope you are dealing ok with this new heat wave, Laurent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted August 2, 2022 Report Share Posted August 2, 2022 simple . just remove the filter and see if it is then OK. ROY Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted August 2, 2022 Report Share Posted August 2, 2022 It may well be this is just a cold car running without enrichment. Choke/enrichment serves a purpose in that it aids smooth running when the engine is cold. Run without it and it may well be a bit hesitant for a mile or two as the engne warms up. If it is fine when it is warm then I wouldn't worry. My 6 is similar as I push the enrichment decive back in once it's started to avoid drowning it in fuel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lo100469 Posted August 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2022 Hi all, We made it back to Brussels in the heat. She used nearly no oil on the way back so i guess long distance did some good to piston rings. The car never overheated (original mechanical fan) in any way. My partner just complained about the heat under her seat as the exhaust goes just there so i will see what i can do. We did 600kms on A and B roads, i think this is the max reasonable mileage in a day, maybe even a bit too much. I will now investigate the hesitations when engins warms up based on your advise (filter, float height, ....). A first long distance trip would not be a good one without at least one minor problem We lost the starter after refilling in town after 10min of heavy traffic (just one click when you turn the key). The engine was really hot at that time so after trying a couple of times we just bump started the car and off we go. I then chose a good place to stop later and saw that the cable at the starter was lose. With only one spanner and the exhaust just near the starter, i did try to fix it but no luck. I can see the amp meter going into the + for 15 min after we left so i guess the solenoid is doing its job. I will check all the usual suspects (battery and earth cables, lose connexion, recharge battery, ....). I hope i can fix it because she is now in my underground garage and changing the starter there will be challenging.. I still would like to retain the original starter, dynamo and fan even if i see many of you upgrading to narrow belt, alternator and high torque starter. I'm hesitating to do the same or not. Thanks again for your replies and have a good day. Laurent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
r-fox Posted September 9, 2022 Report Share Posted September 9, 2022 Hallo Laurent, running in my oldies DCOEs and Dell'Ortos. In order to understand your carb's issue I needed some details of your DCOE40s. - how many progression holes - Which idlejet-holder , size of idlejet Wolfgang Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lo100469 Posted September 9, 2022 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2022 (edited) Thanks Wolfgang, we found some more issues while replacing the starter... it was a 5 hours job because the exhaust was too close so we removed it, and to remove the exhaust we pulled out the carbs. I bought a replacement OEM starter that was supposed to be refurbished but it was all sparky spongy.... it becomes hard to trust people those days. At the end i fitted a modern one because i want to be able to take it out in less than 5 hours.... so that is fixed, and working well. Back to the carbs, we found out that the inlet manifold was not perfectly flat on the engine so the seal was leaking and the PO did put a good layer of silicone to cure the leak. I don't understand people sometimes... Silicone really? It is all properly back together now. The carbs will go for a full refurb this winter, the return spring is off, i prefer to do thinks correctly and have them done and tuned properly. The car did not hesitate after replacing the seal, maybe i had some air leak while the carbs were getting to temperature and the block was already hot. We also changed the fuel filter so who knows as we did both at the same time. But i have too much rust in the bowl so that is another winter job with the tank.... thanks for your help all, i will report back on the carbs when i have them out again in November but all seems well at the moment, 300kms last weekend Laurent Edited September 9, 2022 by Lo100469 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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