Charlie D Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 Hello All, I’ve just bought a pair of rear leverarm links. (The bit that goes from the shock to the spring.) I’ve had no major problem removing the old and replacing but I am wondering at what position I should tighten up the nuts. I guess it should be where the axle would sit in the normal “At stationary” position, (Not high or low.) , but without the wheels on and the weight of the car pressing the body down I don’t know what this position is. If I put the wheels on and roll the car back and forth a bit to settle everything it would get the spring in the right position, but I would not be able to get to the nuts. Logic seems to say to jack the back axle up until it is half way between the top bump stop and the bottom bump stop, and then tighten up. Or is it as easy as putting the jack under the diff and lifting until the body starts to move? Any ideas? Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 Hi Charlie, when I put mine on I had the car jacked up under the diff so I could get the wheels off and then tightened the nuts up. You could always add a bit of weight in the boot to get the axle off the bump stops as I had to do because I had new springs that hadn`t settled yet. I used 4 20kg bags of cement. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted July 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 Thanks Ralph. Makes sense and easy enough to do. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted July 30, 2022 Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 I just place the jack, via a block of timber, under that side's brake drum with the car sitting level and the other wheels/tyres each on the ground. Okay Katie is IRS ..so jacking under the diff would have been useless anyway, but surely supporting under the brake-drum or spring-clamp would set the axle static-load condition of a live axle equally as well.? As Ralph suggests you might want to preload the car, if only for the driver's weight placed onto the car seat + half a tank of fuel. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted July 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2022 Hello Pete, Thanks for the reply. I do think I was overcomplicating things by thinking too deeply about how to do it. Pretty obvious really. (But nice to have conformation though.) Now all I have to do is work out if it would be cheaper to buy 4 bags of cement or half a tank of petrol. I suppose that I could always take the cement back to B and Q the next day and ask for a refund because I didn’t need it. Can’t do that with petrol. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 On 7/30/2022 at 4:21 PM, Charlie D said: Now all I have to do is work out if it would be cheaper to buy 4 bags of cement or half a tank of petrol. I suppose that I could always take the cement back to B and Q the next day and ask for a refund because I didn’t need it. Can’t do that with petrol. Charlie. Half a tank of petrol will enough for a good run to a somewhere good n' interesting. Only problem then., is that you need another half-tank to get you home again.! Those lever-arm links could work out to be quite expensive ..but fun ! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 1, 2022 Report Share Posted August 1, 2022 Hi Charlie, the item you bought is the steel ball on the cone, vulcanised in rubber in another steel ball? And you worry to rip off the vulcanisation? Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted August 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 Hello Marco, Yes, that is what I was wondering about. If it is all set up in a static “Central “ position I guess it would twist a bit each side of center. If I tightened it up at one extreme it would end up doing a lot more twisting. Maybe ripping it apart. I’ve done it now and a bit annoyed that the ones I took off seem perfect. Probably been on the car since new and many tens of thousands of miles use. All seems solid. I held each end in a vice and found no play any direction. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harrytr5 Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 I got fed up with standard ones loosing the 'rubber' so fitted Classic Develop ones instead. Far superior but a tad noisy. Regards Harry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, Charlie D said: Hello Marco, Yes, that is what I was wondering about. If it is all set up in a static “Central “ position I guess it would twist a bit each side of center. If I tightened it up at one extreme it would end up doing a lot more twisting. Maybe ripping it apart. I’ve done it now and a bit annoyed that the ones I took off seem perfect. Probably been on the car since new and many tens of thousands of miles use. All seems solid. I held each end in a vice and found no play any direction. Charlie. Hi Charlie, because the small ball ripped out I made a pair with rose joints for my 4A, this works lovely. Meanwhile Rimmer has / had uprated ones with PU bushs for the IRS axles for a good price. If I remember correctly Revington offered links with rose joints for solid axle models. I would buy these. Ciao, Marco # Edited August 3, 2022 by Z320 better photos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 36 minutes ago, Z320 said: Hi Charlie, because the small ball ripped out I made a pair with rose joints for my 4A, this works lovely. Meanwhile Rimmer has / had uprated ones with PU bushs for the IRS axles for a good price. If I remember correctly Revington offered links with rose joints for solid axle models. I would buy these. Ciao, Marco I have the Revington rose jointed version on my 3a. They seem to work ok. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 3, 2022 Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 (edited) aha, 240 GBP is the price sadly I sold two pairs of mine to cheap Edited August 3, 2022 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted August 4, 2022 Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 17 hours ago, Charlie D said: Hello Marco, Yes, that is what I was wondering about. If it is all set up in a static “Central “ position I guess it would twist a bit each side of center. If I tightened it up at one extreme it would end up doing a lot more twisting. Maybe ripping it apart. I’ve done it now and a bit annoyed that the ones I took off seem perfect. Probably been on the car since new and many tens of thousands of miles use. All seems solid. I held each end in a vice and found no play any direction. Charlie. Don`t throw the original ones away. You will be able to put them back on when the repro ones fail Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted August 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2022 2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said: Don`t throw the original ones away. You will be able to put them back on when the repro ones fail Hello Ralph, Yep, they are safe in my spares box. Marco 12 hours ago, Z320 said: because the small ball ripped out That is what I expected to be the case with the ones I removed, but they are fine. I thought they may just be revolving, which is difficult to check with them still on the car. When I first had the car in Greece I used to "Off road" with it, going down dried up river beds and over boulders going up mountains. (I had a friend with a Jeep and I wanted to prove that my TR was just as tough.) The rear suspension used to go from one extreme to the other, but it didn't seem to do any harm. The joints I had then were the ones I have just removed. Maybe the problems most people have is to do with repro parts. Charlie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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