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Did some research a couple of days ago and bought NGK BP6ES.

Got them from the Green Spark Plug co on eBay. £14 ish delivered for 6.

Edited by Jonny TR6
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5 hours ago, Mike C said:

NGK BUR 6ET's- they're expensive but they give me far easier starting.

+1

Multi electrode plugs, NGK BUR6ET or Bosch WR78. Better starting, smoother idle, resistant to fouling and last forever (almost).

What's not to like!?

Nigel

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18 minutes ago, Nigel Triumph said:

+1

Multi electrode plugs, NGK BUR6ET or Bosch WR78. Better starting, smoother idle, resistant to fouling and last forever (almost).

What's not to like!?

Nigel

I went over to BUR6ETs at a recent service. Definitely smoother, scored a cheap set of 6 on Ebay being sold as NOS for a Golf VR6

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On 6/29/2022 at 12:52 PM, FatJon said:

bp6eRs if they are on an electronic ignition system. The R means resistor and that prevents interference in the electronics. If I use non resistor ones one mine it gets very upset.

 

The R type plugs also cut down the strength of the spark which are usually rated at 5000 ohms.

Bruce.

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On their own, resistor plugs don't make any appreciable difference to spark energy except to reduce the sharp rise-time  - which is why they reduce radio-frequency noise.   Problems come if you have resistive HT leads plus resistive spark plug caps plus resistive plugs as then the cumulative series resistance does start to make a difference.  You really only need one of those components to be resistive, for effective noise suppression. 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, RobH said:

On their own, resistor plugs don't make any appreciable difference to spark energy except to reduce the sharp rise-time  - which is why they reduce radio-frequency noise.   Problems come if you have resistive HT leads plus resistive spark plug caps plus resistive plugs as then the cumulative series resistance does start to make a difference.  You really only need one of those components to be resistive, for effective noise suppression. 

 

 

Correct, but the plug and cable resistance is negligible in comparison to the air gap. 99.99% of the energy is dissipated there in the spark.  P=I^2R

 

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Correct but remember P isn't energy Jon - Joules is P x time and it is energy that makes the spark hot.  An instantaneous transient power peak has negligible energy.  

 

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Rob, Correct, it’s been a long time since my school physics lessons. I suppose if we are getting into the depths of the physics t=RC so the resistance increases the ramp time but not the energy released and so reduces the noise.

But now we’re getting a long way from TR6ology!

 

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As you say Jon massive thread drift :D  It's a bit of an esoteric subject because the whole thing is a dynamic system which can't really be described properly in simple linear terms.  I guess it's best to keep it in layman's language so as not to turn folks off. :huh:

 

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When I got my Pi version in 1972 the recommended plugs were Champion N9Y, I found these often oiled up, or got wetted with fuel after starting up, and rarely cleared themselves when the engine was up to working temperature. Which meant pulling over to hunt for the culprit! I would then wipe it dry and swop it with a hot clean one from another cylinder! Not something that these days would be acceptable when driving. Over the years I changed to NGK BP6ES, and despite many more miles on the clock the NGK's have never let me down like the Champions did when the car had hardly any miles on the clock!

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I would say having tried NGK, Bosch (4 electrode) and Champion, my set up seems to prefer NGK. NGK BP6ES or BP5ES (or a combination of both) depending on how rich/ lean your set up is, and type of driving you do.

So I think it's a case of trying the different types available and see how they perform in your own real world situation. 

Gareth

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  • 3 weeks later...

As a new owner of a TR-6 I'd like to put in new plus as part of setting a good baseline in a 48yr old car. I thanks everyone for the information, and want to make sure I don't use a dodgy vendor. Is image.png.0868648e3112f79400be6bc9bae4463c.png a reliable vendor to order plugs from to not get knock offs?

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53 minutes ago, Steve-B said:

As a new owner of a TR-6 I'd like to put in new plus as part of setting a good baseline in a 48yr old car. I thanks everyone for the information, and want to make sure I don't use a dodgy vendor. Is image.png.0868648e3112f79400be6bc9bae4463c.png a reliable vendor to order plugs from to not get knock offs?

These are the preferred suppliers https://www.gsparkplug.com/

Stuart.

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As far as I know NGK don't make a non-resistor version of the BUR6ET. These are a step up in fouling resistance compared to the BP6ES and BP6EV plugs.

The resistor is more to do with radio-frequency interference supression and has not significant impact on the spark in terms of performance.

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34454956_TR6sparkplugsJULY2022002.thumb.JPG.c2c26ab820c3b93aa572c36b2437e99a.JPG I learned about those NGK triple electrode plugs and Green Spark Plug Co.from this Forum...I think about 7 years ago. I went with the #6's but I couldn't get what I considered a clean burn, so I went with the 5's...They seem to be just right...Here's a recent picture of plugs from cylinders One and Six with the ZS carbs fueling them

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