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Hi Bob,

I do not want to keep bothering you with the same problems.  I am thinking of taking gauge and sender out again .I imagine that you are getting bored with the problem. I am planning to contact the loom maker who supplied the wiring many years ago.

Yesterday I blew the fuse while checking the connections at the back of the gauge. I am trying to leave the water tight heater in place which makes it a bit more awkward. I am also going to try a better earth from the sender.

There may be a better short cut to a repair that I can do myself.  Please let me know.

Richard & B

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Bob,

I may have to post the sender to you. I have tried an extra earth from the mounting plate flange to the body but it has made no difference. The dip stick works well and I am used to it now.

I have a Dynamo Regulator DVT3-P  ( 16 amps 12 Volts ). which has stopped the regulator overcharging the battery. This can not affect the fuel sender when the engine is not running, can it.

Thanks for your advice and help

Richard & B

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  • 2 weeks later...

There was a black cable attached to the fuel gauge with the green supply from the fuse box. I have disconnected it and the gauge is much more precise moving from full to empty with only the green wire fitted. I am still working on the sender.

I will track this black cable when the rain stops but at the moment the heater fan and the spot lamps on the front are both not working. I have found a wiring diagram from AUTO-WIRE which is much easier to read than the ST handbook. It shows the heater fan supply coming from "A2" on the fuse box, which is a busy crowded corner of the engine bay but I will try a new cable there tomorrow.  What size does it need to be ??

The two spot lamps were only live when the main beam headlights were on full beam. So the feed must come from the dipper switch to a switched relay. I will try and find it tomorrow.

Any advice would be very welcome.

Richard & B

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Thanks for the fast reply. My spot lamps are only powered ( live in my post ) when the headlamps are on full beam.

I was suggesting that the dip switch must have a live cable in full beam mode,  to which I could add a new cable to power. my lamps.

Thanks for the help 

Richard & B

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17 minutes ago, Richardtr3a said:

I was suggesting that the dip switch must have a live cable in full beam mode,  to which I could add a new cable to power. my lamps.

You could but it isn't being very kind to the dip-switch, as you would be asking it to carry the current for four lamps instead of the two it is designed for.  It would be better to use it to power a relay instead,  and use the relay to switch the current from a new feed to the extra lamps.  I think you may already have something like that, from what you said above? 

On a 3A an easy place to tap into is the blue/white feed down on the inner wing by the horn on the drivers side. There is a bullet connector there where the feed from the dip-switch splits to feed the two main beam lamps.

 

Edited by RobH
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Checked out, found broken wire inside (strange) re-soldered, & now working, cleaned up the resistance track, & wipers, then lubricated.

Resistance range 0.5 ohms to 84 ohms.

Should be fine as long as the gauge is still calibrated to this sender.  will return today with a new gasket.

Bob

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Thanks very much Bob. Is there a way I can match the gauge easily if I need to ?

out in the garage this afternoon to find a supply for the spot lamps. Black cable has been removed from the gauge.Heater will gat a new supply from A2 if there is room 

Richard & B

 

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If it's the gauge I setup with this sender before, then it should be OK. I can't recommend trying to adjust the gauge, a lot can go very wrong very quickly !

See how it performs & let us know.

Bob

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Thank you very much. The sender that you have is the original one from when the car was new. I am very pleased that I will be able to fit it again.

I have taken the black cable off the gauge and will be looking for a new feed from the fuse board. which would be safe. It is used only for the heater fan rheostat and it would be useful if it was live when the ignition is off. You can be caught out in winter waiting in a car park ??

The spot lamps have a relay which looks corroded and the fuse has gone. Where can I buy a fused relay for two spotlamps. I has forgotten about the relay and the bracket was snapped so it was hiding down by the radiator. It looks in bad condition and needs to be replaced.

Thanks for all the advice.

Richard & B

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1 hour ago, RobH said:

Just be sure to carry a spare blade type fuse of the right rating if you use that type of unit.  Although as it is only the spot lamps it is not a 'fail to get you home' issue.

Cheers

Peter W

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The Auto Electric Supplies company supplied a new relay very quickly. It was made in Italy and with new connectors worked straight away.

The fuel sender is back in the car and the fuel gauge is working for the first time in many months. I will try it out on the road tomorrow.

My car would be in very poor shape without the help and advice here on the Forum.

Thanks Richard & B

 

 

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