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I finally picked it up and it’s now in the garage. There were plans to go for a spin today, however, it was cold and rainy and the wife’s comments about the interior looking a bit grubby spurred me on to getting the easy bit sorted.

Carpets came out and off to Tesco’s hand car wash for a full shampoo and clean. Seats and all interior panels came out and were cleaned with all purpose cleaner and came up spotless. Vinyl is so easy to clean, even after many years open to the road grime etc that can accumulate with a convertible.

More to follow !

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Edited by Jonny TR6
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12 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:

I finally picked it up and it’s now in the garage. There were plans to go for a spin today, however, it was cold and rainy and the wife’s comments about the interior looking a bit grubby spurred me on to getting the easy bit sorted.

Carpets came out and off to Tesco’s hand car wash for a full shampoo and clean. Seats and all interior panels came out and were cleaned with all purpose cleaner and came up spotless. Vinyl is so easy to clean, even after many years open to the road grime etc that can accumulate with a convertible.

More to follow !

 

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You might want to trim the excess off the end of that left hand hood webbing as Im sure it`ll annoy hanging down when the hood is up.

Stuart.

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Question number one relates to the relationship between the seat base and seat upright. My driver’s seat in particular seemed to have a slight lean to the right (looking at it from the front) and the passenger seat seems a little far forward on one side compared to the other.

Before I end up stripping them down, does anyone have any ideas on how to get the seats adjusted so they sit straight ?

 

 

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Edited by Jonny TR6
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  • Jonny TR6 changed the title to Fettling my 72 TR6
4 hours ago, stuart said:

You might want to trim the excess off the end of that left hand hood webbing as Im sure it`ll annoy hanging down when the hood is up.

Stuart.

Thanks S’tu - one for the list !

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15 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Question number one relates to the relationship between the seat base and seat upright. My driver’s seat in particular seemed to have a slight lean to the right (looking at it from the front) and the passenger seat seems a little far forward on one side compared to the other.

Before I end up stripping them down, does anyone have any ideas on how to get the seats adjusted so they sit straight ?

 

 

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70BFC2D3-22C3-41D2-970E-763BECD9E04B.jpeg

They dont anyway. they are designed to lean into the middle of the car to allow a bit of clearance for the hood frame each side. They are often fitted on the front hole on the inside and the back hole on the outside to give clearance for the recliner adjust lever.

Start.

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Brilliant ! many thanks Stuart. My OCD would have had me fiddling with it for hours.

Once the interior is back in, it'll be on to bonnet/wing and door alignment questions....

 

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Jonny - I'm on the same job with my shadow blue interior! I'm just a bit a head of you and did the carpets last weekend.

I'm having a big fettle & sort out ahead of a trip to Classic Le Mans in 10 days time. A bit against the clock but should be OK.... I think... 

I was just about to ask the same question about the seats. They've always annoyed me a bit the fact they aren't very straight. 

Stuart - as always thanks for your knowledge. 

Here are my seats. A bit wonky. Do they look how they should or can they be improved?  

Nick 

seats.jpg

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4 minutes ago, nickw71 said:

Jonny - I'm on the same job with my shadow blue interior! I'm just a bit a head of you and did the carpets last weekend.

I'm having a big fettle & sort out ahead of a trip to Classic Le Mans in 10 days time. A bit against the clock but should be OK.... I think... 

I was just about to ask the same question about the seats. They've always annoyed me a bit the fact they aren't very straight. 

Stuart - as always thanks for your knowledge. 

Here are my seats. A bit wonky. Do they look how they should or can they be improved?  

Nick 

seats.jpg

Drivers side looks to have collapsed a bit in the inner forward side of the upright. Thats possibly the side springs coming adrift from the frame. Item 15 here Seat frames The frames are not unknown to crack in several places as well.

Stuart.

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Funny that because the driver's seat has just started to feel a bit collapsed. I'll check that spring and frame before they go back in. I think the diaphragms might be getting a bit tired as well. 

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8 minutes ago, nickw71 said:

Funny that because the driver's seat has just started to feel a bit collapsed. I'll check that spring and frame before they go back in. I think the diaphragms might be getting a bit tired as well. 

It could also be the rubber straps across the back too items 19-24 on the same picture Seat frames

Stuart.

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Looking a lot nicer in the cabin with everything cleaned up. Started on the dash area last night, so front of the cabin will be in pieces shortly.

 

 

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Hey Jonny, you look to be having so much fun , and doing a great job of it.

Asking the right questions too,  and soon you will be burning the roads up, and listening to the great exhaust and Engine noise.

Keep Having fun, 

Conrad.

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23 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Looking a lot nicer in the cabin with everything cleaned up. Started on the dash area last night, so front of the cabin will be in pieces shortly.

 

 

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You might wish to add a firewall between the tank and the cabin for safety sake

Stuart.

 

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Good point Stuart - does anyone make these ? Another option would possibly be fire retardent material glued to the back of the vinyl rear trim.

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2 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Good point Stuart - does anyone make these ? Another option would possibly be fire retardent material glued to the back of the vinyl rear trim.

That’s an option that won’t work.

If these cars get hit from the rear or has a side impact which “ lozenges” the cockpit area the fuel tank, which is a stressed member  ( it bolts across the car width) sometimes splits. The disrupted rear fibreboard doesn’t hold fuel back. Having 10 gallons of petrol gushing into the cockpit is not funny.

You need a metal panel there welded preferably, but the motorsports association accepts an alloy panel riveted ( I use 25mm spacing for rivets) across the rear of the cockpit. You may think it won’t stand an accident but it’s what the RAC has ruled does… and they’ve seen quite a few in racing so I apply the same process to my road cars. We have lost members because of an accident without the rear firewall fitted. Good idea to fit one…if you value your family.

Mick Richards

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7 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

That’s an option that won’t work.

If these cars get hit from the rear or has a side impact which “ lozenges” the cockpit area the fuel tank, which is a stressed member  ( it bolts across the car width) sometimes splits. The disrupted rear fibreboard doesn’t hold fuel back. Having 10 gallons of petrol gushing into the cockpit is not funny.

You need a metal panel there welded preferably, but the motorsports association accepts an alloy panel riveted ( I use 25mm spacing for rivets) across the rear of the cockpit. You may think it won’t stand an accident but it’s what the RAC has ruled does… and they’ve seen quite a few in racing so I apply the same process to my road cars. We have lost members because of an accident without the rear firewall fitted. Good idea to fit one…if you value your family.

Mick Richards

Hadn't realised that was how the tank failed. Just a thought. If you make the tank attachment sites open slots rather than holes would this help prevent this issue. Lozenging would then just mean the bolts pull out through the slots. 

Tim

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11 hours ago, DaveB66 said:

Revington do a kit - https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr7102/name/fire-wall-tr4a-6, or you could get some alloy sheet and use the rear trim as template and make your own.

Dave

If only I had a sheet of aluminium in the workshop that had been lying around for a few years, that turned out to be pretty much the perfect size.

I couldn't be that lucky...

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1 hour ago, Tim D. said:

Hadn't realised that was how the tank failed. Just a thought. If you make the tank attachment sites open slots rather than holes would this help prevent this issue. Lozenging would then just mean the bolts pull out through the slots. 

Tim

The attachments flanges on the tank are slotted, it’s only the body which has secured fastenings to it. 
The tank is designed to be a stressed member, the TR is a single skin car with the exception of the front scuttle, inner and outer sills and a and b posts. Without a tank securely fitted it compromises the across car stiffness at the rear considerably. The inner shell at the rear without outer wings and fuel tank fitted will flex if you lean heavily onto the cockpit rear deck or forward extension arms (a fitted rear backlight for the Surrey helps here markedly). 
So the tank needs to remain stressed to add stiffness to the shell. Presumably you could add an across car frame picking up on the centre deck and boot floor attachments, if only you then fit a fuel tank in there also ! 
Maybe fitting a tailored 2mm rear alloy firewall riveted every 25 mm, which is sealed with intumescent sealer ( it swells in contact with heat or smoke) is the best option.

Mick Richards

 

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43 minutes ago, Jonny TR6 said:

If only I had a sheet of aluminium in the workshop that had been lying around for a few years, that turned out to be pretty much the perfect size.

I couldn't be that lucky...

Sheets of 18SWG can be had from your local steel stockist Im sure, well worth doing. Theres lots on the Wirral.

Stuart.

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The pre made kits don't always fit out of the box, the one I fitted needed quite a bit of fettling to get a good fit.

If you have the time it may well be as quick and a lot cheaper to make one yourself.

Brian

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4 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

The attachments flanges on the tank are slotted, it’s only the body which has secured fastenings to it. 
The tank is designed to be a stressed member, the TR is a single skin car with the exception of the front scuttle, inner and outer sills and a and b posts. Without a tank securely fitted it compromises the across car stiffness at the rear considerably. The inner shell at the rear without outer wings and fuel tank fitted will flex if you lean heavily onto the cockpit rear deck or forward extension arms (a fitted rear backlight for the Surrey helps here markedly). 
So the tank needs to remain stressed to add stiffness to the shell. Presumably you could add an across car frame picking up on the centre deck and boot floor attachments, if only you then fit a fuel tank in there also ! 
Maybe fitting a tailored 2mm rear alloy firewall riveted every 25 mm, which is sealed with intumescent sealer ( it swells in contact with heat or smoke) is the best option.

Mick Richards

 

Fair enough. Fitted the aluminium firewall to mine. 

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Turns out I was that lucky - will get this cut out this evening. Also humming and harring on the dash. The original one could do with a sand down and re-finish, but the burl walnut ones do look nice. Was thinking of veneering mine, although getting a length of burl veneer 1.2m long isn't easy.

 

 

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