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Fettling my 72 TR6


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1 hour ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Turns out I was that lucky - will get this cut out this evening. Also humming and harring on the dash. The original one could do with a sand down and re-finish, but the burl walnut ones do look nice. Was thinking of veneering mine, although getting a length of burl veneer 1.2m long isn't easy.

 

 

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Dont forget you need to make two small sections to go in over the arches, the left hand one needs a grommet letting into it for the wiring loom.

Stuart.

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Nice VW, you’ll have no chance of getting Stuart, he has a waiting list of jobs longer than both his arms at his workshop, but if your in the area he alway welcomes you in for a chat and a look at the project he is working on.

Mike redrose group 

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Yes but always worth a visit, and the group also look after you if you say your holidaying in the area you get to go on roads you’ll never find on your own.

Mike Redrose group 

TS2 is at the Cock at Budworth tomorrow night Redrose meeting.

Edited by brenda
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Firewall in - for once I had everything I needed in the workshop, so no hanging about waiting for bits to arrive.

Small sections installed either side, plenty of rivets and sealed as well. Also had the correct grommet for the loom.

Chucked some dynamat on the firewall as well as it’ll resonate like a drum with all the road and exhaust noise.

It’s not perfect, but it’s much much better than the existing trim on its own in the event of a collision.

should stiffen the car up a bit as well.

I do love working on this car. Everything is so easily accessible and not an ECU in sight !

5BB27A72-477F-4DD9-B5AF-77DCF122302D.jpeg

Edited by Jonny TR6
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On 6/20/2022 at 2:33 PM, charlie74 said:

Seat foams dry rot too and will crumble. You list is getting longer…

I think that is also an issue with the driver's side. I can see a winter seat rebuild coming up. Luckily everything is available, just need copious amounts of patience. 

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11 hours ago, Jonny TR6 said:

Firewall in - for once I had everything I needed in the workshop, so no hanging about waiting for bits to arrive.

Small sections installed either side, plenty of rivets and sealed as well. Also had the correct grommet for the loom.

Chucked some dynamat on the firewall as well as it’ll resonate like a drum with all the road and exhaust noise.

It’s not perfect, but it’s much much better than the existing trim on its own in the event of a collision.

should stiffen the car up a bit as well.

I do love working on this car. Everything is so easily accessible and not an ECU in sight !

5BB27A72-477F-4DD9-B5AF-77DCF122302D.jpeg

Nice one Jonny. That should also help with the famous TR smell of fumes in the cabin! I am going to seriously consider the mod myself. 

On the subject of the dash. It's all in the eye of the beholder but I really think the original dash looks correct and period for a late 60s/70s car. TR6s aren't old Jags. I had a burr in mine when I bought it and changed it back to an original which I had had re-lacquered at http://www.silvercrest-woodtrim.co.uk/contact.html

These guys are a bit closer to you https://www.gdkveneering.co.uk/

I think they charged me £70-80 at the time and it looked like new. Together with the shadow blue interior it looks period correct. See page 176 of Bill Piggott's Triumph TR Guide for great pictures of Dave Lewis's Sapphire/Shadow Blue COV 897K. 

As I said, all down to personal taste.  

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Thanks Nick - will take a look.

just spoke to GKD - £300 to veneer the original dash. Can get a full dash for around that and retain my existing one, so might end up going down that route.

Decisions decisions…

Edited by Jonny TR6
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Interior now back in and hood ready to go on. There are a couple of small paint chips from hood removal/fitting, so will get these sorted before the hood goes on.

 

 

CB8C3FC6-D43F-492E-A272-6DEEF8E89CDC.jpeg

Edited by Jonny TR6
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On 6/23/2022 at 10:44 AM, Jonny TR6 said:

Thanks Nick - will take a look.

just spoke to GKD - £300 to veneer the original dash. Can get a full dash for around that and retain my existing one, so might end up going down that route.

Decisions decisions…

You might consider re-veneering the dash yourself

i did mine about 9 years ago with teak which i then oiled, still looks great today !

post-9473-0-11679600-1393157536_thumb.jpg

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Hi Steve, I have been considering doing it myself. Was looking for burr veneers 1.2m long, but that shows my lack of knowledge :D

I take it you butt the veneers up to each other. Need to do some research on this as the process isn’t rocket science.

It’s getting the deep lacquer that’s the tricky bit.

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Sticking a new ally rocker cover on as the existing original steel is a bit leaky and the paint is flaking off. I’m using a cork gasket as it’s the thin type as advised by Rimmer.

Question is - do peeps usually use Hylomar or similar with cork gaskets, or install as is ?

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Stick the cork gasket to the alloy cover using hylomar and do not use ANY sealer on the engine surface. On that surface give the gasket a light wipe with fresh engine oil, it will allow the gasket to easily part when you wish to remove the cover.
If done correctly the gasket will seal well and Remain on the rocker cover for many multiple removals and refittings.

Mick Richards

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23 hours ago, ntc said:

Do a search and learn how to do it proper and the right sealant 

I’ve done that and there’s so much conflicting advice I thought I’d reach out to people who have much more experience with TRs than me.

On that note I’d genuinely be interested in hearing how you would do it Neil, as I understand that you do have a lot of experience with these cars.

Micky’s been kind enough to give his advice and to a TR novice, it’s all gratefully received.

I must say there are a lot of very helpful people on here !

Edited by Jonny TR6
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Another job added to the list - took off the water pump which has been dropping a bit of coolant and parcelled it up to send to the extremely helpful Paul King at EP Services.

He's the kind of chap Mike Brewer ends up wandering into his workshop - very knowledgeable, very skilful and very old school in all the best ways.

Had to bite the bullet on jacking the car up at some time and this gave me the impetus. Also means I can get on with even more jobs...

Have to say - the underside was in exceptionally good nick - not a spot of rust anywhere.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Got my instruments back from Smith’s Gauges (Alan Davis) and popped them in to my burr elm dash to see how they looked. 

Although my car is a CP and should have black bezels, chatting with Rich Crewe Read made me plump for chrome bezels.

All easily reversed for the concours police, but to my mind really look good with the new dash.

I was in 2 minds on getting my original dash restored, but probably would have cost the same as a new burr elm, so decided to go for it,

Big thanks to Rich CR for all his help and advice on finding parts/suppliers etc If you need a new dash/rad or other bits do drop him a PM.

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Edited by Jonny TR6
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Looking good Jonny, I doubt the concours police will get near it, but keep looking over your shoulder for the originally police :lol:.

Gareth

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Got all my small gauges wired up and fitted classiccarled blue period correct led dash lights. Still yet to wire up the main instruments, but notice that none of the dash lights come on yet and the fuel gauge isn't working yet. Do I need to wire everything up before they will operate ? The ammeter works fine though.

I'm hoping to calibrate the fuel gauge to match my aluminium tank capacity. All the gauges have been checked over and re-faced and the fuel gauge fitted with new internals, so will need correct calibration (with a built in reserve !)

If I want to check the sender, do I use my ohmmeter and just watch for resistance change ? It's out of the tank at the mo.

 

 

Edited by Jonny TR6
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