Vic787 Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 The steering is heavy, when jacked up it is easier to turn but still some stiffness. Through process of elimination, disconnecting track rod ends, most parts were working correctly until I checked the axle swivels which were hard to turn by hand with wheels off the floor. With the upper ball joint separated from the vertical link the axle turns freely by hand until reconnected then becomes quite stiff. Everything is well lubricated. Checking the tracking is next. My question is. Should the threaded part of the ball joint be stiff and hard to move by hand, prior to purchasing new ones. Tr4 1962. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 I remember reading on this forum about some top ball joints that "bind up" on full drop of the suspension. Try jacking the car on the bottom spring pan to release some pressure on the top joint and see if it is still stiff. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vic787 Posted May 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 Thanks Ralph for your reply and suggestion, jacked it up under pans and yes steering is lighter and leads into the tracking now. Let’s see how that goes. i have VREDESTEIN Sprint S80 165x15 86S on 72 spoke wires, I have wondered also if these are too wide a section. I can hardly turn steering stationary. regards Vic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 Even with 165 tyres, the steering will be very stiff when stationary. Just rock the car back and forth when attempting to manoeuvre - it makes it easier (note - I didn't say easy!). I can tell you that with 195 tyres, it is even harder. However, once moving, all is well. I buy my top ball joints from a supplier in Somerset who checks them to ensure full articulation. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 Makes a change of the info flowbut there is very useful info via the Triumph Experience forum from John Durant, John does a bang up job of checking his vertical links for caster and camber and posted in the british car forum of his method https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/triumph-spindles.98354/ Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 29, 2022 Report Share Posted May 29, 2022 Have you lubricated the rack? Pump EP 90 into it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 14 hours ago, Vic787 said: Thanks Ralph for your reply and suggestion, jacked it up under pans and yes steering is lighter and leads into the tracking now. Let’s see how that goes. i have VREDESTEIN Sprint S80 165x15 86S on 72 spoke wires, I have wondered also if these are too wide a section. I can hardly turn steering stationary. regards Vic 165x15 are what most folk use now, bear in mind the cars were designed and supplied (mostly) with cross ply tyres which had a much smaller contact patch with the road, so steering was acceptably light for the day, but still heavy by modern standards. I have a TR3 with a steering rack conversion (TR7 rack) and 185 tyres on 72 spoke 5.5J rims (TR6) and the steering is one finger light on the move, but you still have to heave at it when stationary, but that is bad practice as puts a lot of strain through the steering system, better to shunt backwards and forwards when turning. The tracking, if out, would not have any effect on heaviness at low speeds or stationary , unless it was miles out which you would know from the handling and tyre wear. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 10 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Have you lubricated the rack? Pump EP 90 into it. Unfortunately no chance there with the modern replacements as theyve no grease point. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 I wouldn't pump much grease or oil into the rack, even if there is a grease nipple. As with rear hubs and water pumps, over-enthusiastic greasing can provoke leakage problems. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 If it's stiff when jacked up then that takes the tyres out of the equation. 2 trunnion 2 top ball joints and 2 track tod ends. So disconnect the track rod ends and see if one side is stiffer investigate ball joint & trunnion. If not then check the rack turns freely at the wheel if so, check the rod ends. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted May 30, 2022 Report Share Posted May 30, 2022 Has nobody else really NOT found their vertical link to be bent causing caster and camber irregularities and stiffness when turning the wheel ? proved by checking it like this. Checking Vertical link.webp More info if you go onto the BCF page shown on my posting about 4 posts above. I've pinched this detailed "how to" from John Durant and his post to the BCF and also the Triumph Experience forum. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4ffic Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 On 5/29/2022 at 3:45 PM, Vic787 said: I can hardly turn steering stationary. Hi Vic What is the steering like when on the move? ...on the open road? ...at walking speeds in a car park when manoeuvring? Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 4, 2022 Report Share Posted June 4, 2022 On 5/29/2022 at 1:07 PM, Vic787 said: The steering is heavy, when jacked up it is easier to turn but still some stiffness. Through process of elimination, disconnecting track rod ends, most parts were working correctly until I checked the axle swivels which were hard to turn by hand with wheels off the floor. With the upper ball joint separated from the vertical link the axle turns freely by hand until reconnected then becomes quite stiff. Everything is well lubricated. Checking the tracking is next. My question is. Should the threaded part of the ball joint be stiff and hard to move by hand, prior to purchasing new ones. Tr4 1962. Hi Vic, I also have the Vredstein classic sport running at 28psi- this helps a little. Handling still very good. The bottom TRunnion should not be stiff . If grease has been used to lubricate then you may well need to remove the TRunnion to clean out the lubrication path. If oil has been used then re-lubricate. I prefer to use grease and tend to remove the TRunnions every 2 years The top ball joint will be stiff when new but should be reasonable 'rotatable'using the tyre as a lever. With the tyres OFF the ground some owners have noticed that the Top Ball Joint is very still. This caused by the TBJ having limited travel or an overly long damper strut. Revingtons do a good TBJ. Turning the steering wheel at any speed over 5mph should be OK. Roger PS - why do I remove my TRunnions every two years or so. The seals on the large bolt that go through the TRunnion are not good and the bolt can rust/seize in place. It takes 3-4 hours to sort out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vic787 Posted June 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2022 Thanks for all the advice which I have followed to the letter. Top nearside ball joint didn’t actually accept grease, it just pumped out around the washer in which grease nipple situated, now rectified with a new joint. My exit from the garage underneath the back of the house to the driveway is tight and needs a lot of shuffling back and forwards. Cannot change that but at least steering/suspension working correctly. Thanks again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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