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I can’t get gears


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Hi all you clever engineers.

 I have just attempted the maiden voyage of my 1973 TR6. The body isn’t painted and there is no trim yet but it was ready for a first run today. The problem is that with the engine running I cannot select the gears. 
I could just about get 3rd ,4th and reverse but not first and second. It also felt really tight. I replaced the clutch master cylinder but not the slave cylinder. The only way I got it back into the garage was to put it in first gear then start the engine.Does anyone  know what the problem might be?

Thanks

Colin.

 

 

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Hi Mike.

Thanks for your fast reply. Ye I did bleed it but it doesn’t feel like it should. I think I will take it off and have a look at it.

I’m hoping that will do it and avoid having to take the gearbox out. I will post again when I know a little more.

Colin.

 

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Can you start the car in gear with the clutch depressed fully and the car does not try to drive away?   If so that rules out the clutch plate rusted to the flywheel    In which case sounds like insufficient disengagement.  
Is the car LH or RH drive?   Did you fit a new master cyl with push rod?    If the car is RHD Was the master cyl for RHD?   The push rod on LHD is shorter than those on RHD meaning insufficient cylinder movement for given pedal travel.   Got your old cyl and push rod?  Do a quick measure.

 

 

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Hi Peter.

Yes I can start the car with the clutch depressed. It was the only way I could get it in first gear. I have removed the slave cylinder which is the original and inspected it. It was very good so I have put it back on. I bled the system and found that although I drained fluid from the nipple, when you depress the pedal there is no movement at the slave cylinder push rod.

 I am thinking it’s the master cylinder piston jammed as it is not pushing fluid to the slave. Over the next few days I will replace it with the original one which I had changed. It again seems okay.

The car was a LHD but now converted to RH. Although I changed the master cylinder I don’t think I changed the push rod as a new one was not supplied. Does anyone know how long it should be so I can check it.

just to add to the confusion I have two nuts about ten mm thick which were placed between the flange of the slave cylinder and the support bracket to presumably increase the amount of stroke when the pedal is depressed.

Many thanks for all the help I am receiving.

Colin

 

 

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16 hours ago, Colinablewhite said:

Hi Peter.

Yes I can start the car with the clutch depressed. It was the only way I could get it in first gear. I have removed the slave cylinder which is the original and inspected it. It was very good so I have put it back on. I bled the system and found that although I drained fluid from the nipple, when you depress the pedal there is no movement at the slave cylinder push rod.

 I am thinking it’s the master cylinder piston jammed as it is not pushing fluid to the slave. Over the next few days I will replace it with the original one which I had changed. It again seems okay.

The car was a LHD but now converted to RH. Although I changed the master cylinder I don’t think I changed the push rod as a new one was not supplied. Does anyone know how long it should be so I can check it.

just to add to the confusion I have two nuts about ten mm thick which were placed between the flange of the slave cylinder and the support bracket to presumably increase the amount of stroke when the pedal is depressed.

Many thanks for all the help I am receiving.

Colin

 

 

The expression ‘can of worms’ is coming to mind.

Master cyl push rod length is critical.  See the link above.


Clutch cross shaft pin broken could be the reason the nuts are fitted between the slave cyl and its bracket.  

Did the car drive ok (gear change etc)  before you changed the clutch master cyl while it was still LHD?

What state is the engine in?

Another thought.   Get hold of the front engine fan and push and pull it along the axis of the crank shaft.  Does it move forward and backward? Movement should not be visible nor feel-able by hand. If the movement is accompanied by a ‘clonk’ the engine crankshaft thrust washers could be worn or may have fallen out.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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