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I used two new Moss  special nuts to fit  the extension for wire wheel. on the rear RHS.  The other two nuts were in good condition. I have a special tool for tightening these nuts and noticed that there was still a small amount of thread showing inside the nut,  when they were fully tight, 

I checked the LHS and there was no small bit of thread showing. I measured the threaded studs without  the extension in place and it was 1/16"longer than the RHS. 

The nuts tighten down well on both sides and I am sure that this does not become a problem. Please let me know if it is in any way needing some repair. 

Tomorrow I plan to bleed the rear brake fluid after fitting a new cylinder on the RHS. Thanks to Past Parts.

Please let me know Richard & B

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Put a bit of plasticine or blue tack on the offending studs/nuts.   Fit the wire wheel properly.   Remove wheel and look at the offending nut/stud.

Is the blue tack or plasticine flattened but no bit of stud or nut is peeking through?  If so it is good.

  If metal of the stud is shewing through, the stud needs reducing in length as it is touching the wire wheel spoke hub.

Peter W

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Richard, it sounds as though the RHS studs have been shortened a little too much.  I have original factory wire wheel hubs and studs and the studs just protrude slightly, about 2mm, from the nut without fouling the hub.  It is good engineering practice to have the full thread of a nut used, but as we are only talking about 1/16" here I would think it would be OK. There is a torque setting for the nuts holding the adapters on, and if you can achieve this there should be no problem.

Ralph

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Thanks Peter. I was not clear enough in my original post. The thread that is just visible is not the stud but the last bit in the nut which is covered by the longer stud and exposed when fitted over the slightly shorter stud. The stud is not exposed on either side.

Thanks for your fast reply.

Richard & B

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Are all the double chamfered adaptor nuts the same thickness?

Have you fitted new splined adaptors?

Nuts measure 0.475” thick

Original wire wheel studs measure 0.875” from flange to stud end.

Are the brake drum, drive flange and spline adaptor faces all CLEAN. of paint?

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Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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I have just measured one chamfered nut on the RHS and it measures .502"  and has a shine around the pointed end only and the rest of the chamfer looks like new. 

I can only measure the wire wheel studs in position by using a ruler

I will be busy tomorrow making sure that it has no paint etc. Looks like no rain.

Thanks Richard & B.

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I have found my proper measuring callipers and I  just measured all four chamfered nuts and they all measure 0.527" Tomorrow I will take off the brake drum and try to measure the studs.

Thanks Richard & B.

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Based on both our measurements …Your double chamfer nuts are 0.050” thicker than the samples I have.

The stud is 7/16x20 tpi unf thread.   20 tpi means one thread crest for every 1/20 of inch   1/20” is 0.050”   So your studs will be one thread shy of the thickness of the nuts you have compared to those I have.   
I could swap you some thinner nuts?

Peter W

 

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Thanks very much for the offer. I am planning to check out the drum and paint today. If I have no improvement I would like to try one off your chamfered nuts. I will post this evening and let you know.

Thanks Richard & B.

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Thanks for the offer of a chamfered nut. Please could you send me just one so that I can try and see if it makes a reasonable difference.I think that you have my address but I will confirm it in a PM. When it arrives I will make with a small dash of red paint so that there is no confusion out in the garage. If it works we will need another 3 and I will post you my redundant 4.

Thanks

Richard & B

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Thanks for the new chamfered nuts. They make a difference and I think my problem is well solved. How tight should they be ? I do have a torque wrench which does not get much use. I have also found a plastic bag with a collection of old chamfered nuts, mostly damaged , which were used before I had the special socket for these nuts.

Thanks very much

Richard & B

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Because there is not much of these chamfered nuts showing you need to use a very well fitting socket with a single Hex configuration rather than the standard multi point socket. Support the socket and nut with one hand pressing the socket over the nut and use one hand on the torque wrench. From memory these nuts go on at 45 lbs ft which you'll find looking inside your workshop manual.

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Thanks Mick. I have the correct socket which was machined so that it sits fully over the nut. The front edge was made flat and works very well with no slipping off under pressure. The next job is to find the workshop manual.

Thanks Richard & B.

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Do not bother posting the spare 4 nuts back to me, they are just going to be fishing weights as I do not have a wire wheel car.

Glad they fixed your problem.

Peter W

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According to AKM3646 the Triumph service manual TR4-6

Wire wheel extended nuts are to 65 lbs ft

Steel road wheel nuts are to 60 lbs ft

TR6 (big chromey things) 80 lbs ft.

 

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Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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I spent the afternoon removing any old paint/primer from the relevant surfaces. A light sanding and two coats of Kurust.  The wire wheel extension fits well and the new chamfered nuts fit over the studs so that there is no longer any problem there.

Back on the road tomorrow. ( at last  )

Richard & B

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Just looking at Haynes manual again and it lists 65lbsft for Wire wheel adapter nuts ( TR3 Only), followed by " Hub extension nuts for wire wheels @ 65lbsft"

Slightly confused as aren`t they one and the same thing ?,  same torque anyway. But why TR3 only? , is that when the Girling axle was adopted?

Ralph

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On 5/28/2022 at 8:52 AM, Ralph Whitaker said:

Just looking at Haynes manual again and it lists 65lbsft for Wire wheel adapter nuts ( TR3 Only), followed by " Hub extension nuts for wire wheels @ 65lbsft"

Slightly confused as aren`t they one and the same thing ?,  same torque anyway. But why TR3 only? , is that when the Girling axle was adopted?

Ralph

Just realised I  was being an idiot, of course the TR2 with the Lockheed axle had the wire wheel extensions built in so there would not have been any nuts to torque up. DOH!

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