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TR3a original steering gear


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Hi Pete,

Here are view s of the steering box and a stator tube ( missing one spring lantern)

The bearings, worm, peg and shaft look in excellent condition.

I has your name on it now and is back up in the rafters with the NOS LHD steering worms.

 

DF69584D-53CE-42E9-A8B7-844B97BF7077.jpeg

A1CF3DD8-4AC6-455E-91D6-81471787DB3B.jpeg

88C2FAB0-8608-4A50-B212-0FE341320D3F.jpeg

9BEF833D-518E-4C6F-BED3-3C5CA1C418ED.jpeg

06F88FB2-0660-499B-86BA-9DB66E919D87.jpeg  Note not bent.

2126519A-223D-40A2-A2B9-CE162B9596E2.jpeg

C527D2DC-4B06-4D30-A2E2-4E6B8A58AA59.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Yes RHD

Note rh helix on worm and drop arm lever pivot centre  is to the right, outboard of the worm and shaft.

If he comes next week do not come Wednesday 1st June, as it is Pinner Fair day and the roads are closed or choked.   The Fair has been running for 600 years and is London’s oldest surviving street fair granted by royal charter.  There is a way in and out but in truth you are best not to travel.    Tell me when it will be.   I have pm’d my details to you.

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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On 5/22/2022 at 6:37 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Hi Pete,

 is back up in the rafters with the NOS LHD steering worms.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOS LHD steering worms that sounds tempting, do you have any for sale  Peter?

cheers

Alan 

Edited by Kiwifrog
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1 hour ago, Kiwifrog said:

NOS LHD steering worms that sounds tempting, do you have any for sale  Peter?

cheers

Alan 

Will touch one and let you know.    

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17 hours ago, Kiwifrog said:

NOS LHD steering worms that sounds tempting, do you have any for sale  Peter?

cheers

Alan 

Yes Alan.

I have two.   They are new old stock and the business ends, top and bottom,  have been in plastic bags covered with waxoyle for some years so the centre shaft bit has some surface rust;  which I would wire brush off before selling.


Both are long column type LHD.   note LH helix on worm.

One adjustable steering wheel type and one fixed steering wheel type.

Remember these are 5 ft (1500mm) long so the UK post says NO!   French post probably does too.

I will be in Arles, Provence later in June if collection is possible.

Price £275.00 each.  Plus packing and carriage.

 

 

9D332842-18C8-4403-843B-4DCC48CB88D1.jpeg

8ACB2510-AA50-442B-AB39-09AA36373674.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Fitting notes for worms.

Yes the worm is removable from the shaft and will fit both long and short columns.


The worm is spline fitted to the shaft and held in place by belling or swaging the end of the shaft to retain the worm.   This can be seen on the assembly.

To get an old one off is easy as you only want the shaft intact.    Heat up the end of the inner shaft swaged area to red to soften it and drive the worm off with a drift and an hammer.   That is not the way to get a new worm off as the heat could upset the hardened worm and hitting with a drift may chip the surface.  The trick is to drill out the swaging, which will allow the worm to slide off the splined end.    The new inner shaft is now scrap as there is no metal left to bell or swage to retain the worm when refitted.

Fitting a new worm.  Clean up the end of the shaft with a file so the new worm will push on fully.   Tap into place with a soft mallet to ensure it is fully seated.   Clamp the shaft in a vice and use a conical punch to swage the inner shaft so it retains the worm.   Be sure the stator tube still passes through ok.  The last one I did I also used Loctite adhesive for ‘belt and braces’

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Hello,

I have a 3A that originally had a split steering column and I replaced it with the earlier non-split version (I was going from LHD to RHD and the non-split column was all that I could locate.)
Yesterday I removed the column in order to replace the oil seal and ended up wishing I’d spent more time fitting it when I did the rebuild, a few years ago.

I’ll explain the problems I had just in case it helps you. (Although there is a fair chance that you won’t have the same problems I had.)

After removing all the nuts and bolts both under the dash and on the box itself there was no way that the box and column could come out. (I have a feeling that I must have somehow fitted the column before I fitted the body on the chassis, which seems impossible.)

The main problem was that the column was trapped by the lower mounting bracket that is welded to the chassis for the clamping of the lower part of the split column and is not needed for the non-split column. As you have had a rack conversion the previous owner may well have cut this bracket off. If it is still there I’d recommend that you cut it off before you fit the non-split column.

I’d be interested to hear the views from the experts on this.

The only way for me to remove the column yesterday was to use a Dremel and cut the bracket off, working around the column. Not easy and time consuming.

My problem may have been compounded by the fact that when I converted to RHD I had to cut the bulkhead holes myself and I think that if I’d cut the steering column hole a bit lower down I may have been able to extract the column with the lower bracket still in place. I may have then been able to “See-saw” the column to get the front part high enough to go over the very front chassis member.(I assume that your car already had the bulkhead hole in the right place, so that should not cause a problem.)

As I say, you may find you can fit the column with no problem, but just be aware that you don’t need that lower chassis bracket if it seems in the way.

(Peter W -- Please comment incase I am giving wrong advice !)

Charlie.

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1 hour ago, Charlie D said:

Hello,

I have a 3A that originally had a split steering column and I replaced it with the earlier non-split version (I was going from LHD to RHD and the non-split column was all that I could locate.)
Yesterday I removed the column in order to replace the oil seal and ended up wishing I’d spent more time fitting it when I did the rebuild, a few years ago.

I’ll explain the problems I had just in case it helps you. (Although there is a fair chance that you won’t have the same problems I had.)

After removing all the nuts and bolts both under the dash and on the box itself there was no way that the box and column could come out. (I have a feeling that I must have somehow fitted the column before I fitted the body on the chassis, which seems impossible.)

The main problem was that the column was trapped by the lower mounting bracket that is welded to the chassis for the clamping of the lower part of the split column and is not needed for the non-split column. As you have had a rack conversion the previous owner may well have cut this bracket off. If it is still there I’d recommend that you cut it off before you fit the non-split column.

I’d be interested to hear the views from the experts on this.

The only way for me to remove the column yesterday was to use a Dremel and cut the bracket off, working around the column. Not easy and time consuming.

My problem may have been compounded by the fact that when I converted to RHD I had to cut the bulkhead holes myself and I think that if I’d cut the steering column hole a bit lower down I may have been able to extract the column with the lower bracket still in place. I may have then been able to “See-saw” the column to get the front part high enough to go over the very front chassis member.(I assume that your car already had the bulkhead hole in the right place, so that should not cause a problem.)

As I say, you may find you can fit the column with no problem, but just be aware that you don’t need that lower chassis bracket if it seems in the way.

(Peter W -- Please comment incase I am giving wrong advice !)

Charlie.

I have never attempted to fit or remove a solid long steering assy from a chassis deigned for split column.    Removing a short box is a doddle compared to a long one.


With hind sight when converting and rebuilding……cut the RHD long outer casing to match the LHD short casing.   Rebuild the LHD inner short column with the RHD worm.   More work but would have made life easier now.

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