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Need to replace the tyres on UOV my wife’s TR3. The car is only ever driven gently so thinking of a set of Blockleys my question is should I go for 155 or 165 I see a lot of suppliers are recommending ‘upgrading’ to 165 but just concerned that it will increase the weight of the steering at parking speeds something my wife wouldn’t appreciate, any (constructive :D) thoughts great fully received

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10mm isn't going to make much difference Graham either in weight or grip. You can lighten things up by inflating the tyres a bit harder if you find it a problem.   Blockleys - at least in crossply form - are used for racing so gentle driving isn't a necessity. 

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Those links are are all '60' section Roger.  Too small rolling radius. 

 

These are the correct '80' section:

https://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b0s408p0/Car_Tyres_-_MPV_Tyres_-_People_Carrier_Tyres_-_15_inch_R15_inch_-_165_80_15_165_80R15_R15_inch_-_165_15_165R15

Edited by RobH
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We’ve now completed over 3500 miles on  Blockleys (165’s) Great grip, wet or dry and quiet. Also hang on very nicely on a circuit.

Iain

 

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17 hours ago, RobH said:

Those links are are all '60' section Roger.  Too small rolling radius. 

 

These are the correct '80' section:

https://www.camskill.co.uk/m53b0s408p0/Car_Tyres_-_MPV_Tyres_-_People_Carrier_Tyres_-_15_inch_R15_inch_-_165_80_15_165_80R15_R15_inch_-_165_15_165R15

Have to say the Continentals look like a bargain, think I might get a set of those 

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1 minute ago, brenda said:

Hi just a heads up do you have tubes or not, I will have to be getting new tyres but need to fit tubes.

 Mike Redrose group 

Mike yes the car has inner tubes 

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Michelin XAS 165/15 (80) (no inner tube needed).

A little more expensive than the competition, of course, but safety is priceless, even if you just have to go and buy your baguette ! ;)

29 psi at the front wheels and 26 psi at the rear and the steering will be as light as a post-war van… :D

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It's the original steel wheels that mean a tube is required, not the tyre itself. Most if not all modern tyres are "tubeless" but, as I understand it, the design of the older TR steel wheels is not suitable, or at least not ideal, for running tubeless.

Tubeless tyres sometimes have ridges on the inside surface - I sourced some tyre talc and asked my local garage to put some on the inside of the tyre to prevent risk of the tube rucking up.

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FWIW, I have had success without using tubes on my disc wheel 3B for many years. Decades ago, it was running Firestone bias plies w/o tubes or problems. Until two years ago it was on 165/15 Vredsteins w/o incident. Currently Michelin xzx 165/15 are also serving well and maybe with a slightly improved ride over the faithful Vredsteins. 
— James

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          As I understand it early TR wheels should be fitted with tubes so that in the case of a puncture the deflated tube prevents the tyre from coming off the rim. Later TRs (TR6?) have a ridge inside the wheel rim to prevent the tyre coming off and do not need tubes. Some tyre fitters know this and act accordingly but most do not. Most modern tyres are designed to be tubeless which means the manufactures do not need to be as careful smoothing off the inside of the tyre where it could chaff on a tube.

          Cheers 

          Richard

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A deflated tube will do absolutely nothing to keep the tyre on the rim Richard - It's as limp as a very limp thing.  (Oo-er missus)

It's when you hit a kerb or even under very heavy cornering, that the tube stops the tyre from losing air if it is pushed away from the rim.  A tubeless tyre may deflate if the edge seal is lost hence the ridge in the wheel on later cars to mitigate the effect.

 

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948840778_TR6wheels.jpeg.762b2e700bf53fb5f748424756530d4a.jpeg  Click on to enlarge

I had to check, these are TR6 wheels (bought from Conrad) they do have the raised "bump" on both sides to help hold the tyre on the inside of the rim.

Bob

Edited by Lebro
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That’s the set up I had before

3 sets of alloys slowly appeared on the scene each set having different tyre attributes. 

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I swapped out my wire wheels for 5.5" TR6 rims.

The tires are 185/65R-15 SUMITOMO HTR A/S P03 SL from Tire Rack/USA.

 I love the way early D Type Jag rims look so those wheels were the inspiration to modify my rims.
 I found some stock for the right diameter and set up a template to 
drill the pilot holes first, then the final holes....120 holes later!
All the wheel studs had to be changed as the wire wheel studs are to short.

Colin

Some photos

IMG_1874 copy 3.jpeg

Screen Shot 2021-12-06 at 11.05.46 AM copy.png

Screen Shot 2022-05-18 at 1.51.58 PM.png

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7 hours ago, RobH said:

A deflated tube will do absolutely nothing to keep the tyre on the rim Richard - It's as limp as a very limp thing.  (Oo-er missus)

It's when you hit a kerb or even under very heavy cornering, that the tube stops the tyre from losing air if it is pushed away from the rim.  A tubeless tyre may deflate if the edge seal is lost hence the ridge in the wheel on later cars to mitigate the effect.

 

Thanks Rod, when you put it like that it makes more sense than the story I got from a tyre professional but my point is still valid. I feel safer with a tube fitted if you see what I mean.

          Cheers

          Richard

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6 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

So are you planning on fitting your 3 with TR6 wheels then Bob?

Rgds Ian

Me too!  
Bought the rims new when they were a tenner each from Pete Buckles in Mitcham.  Big mistake was buying new Pirelli Cinturato CF 67 tyres and having them fitted locally.  The damn tyres let go on the first wet corner I got to, that I had previously never had an issue with using Dunlop SP Sports.   The wheels and tyres were sold the following week to a TR 4 owner, and a new set of wheels, this time fitted with new SP Sports.

Lovely combination.

 

0560D603-98BF-4A02-A4BD-84C0F5B66875.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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2 hours ago, Colin W. Gentle said:

I swapped out my wire wheels for 5.5" TR6 rims.

The tires are 185/65R-15 SUMITOMO HTR A/S P03 SL from Tire Rack/USA.

 I love the way early D Type Jag rims look so those wheels were the inspiration to modify my rims.
 I found some stock for the right diameter and set up a template to 
drill the pilot holes first, then the final holes....120 holes later!
All the wheel studs had to be changed as the wire wheel studs are to short.

Colin

Some photos

IMG_1874 copy 3.jpeg

Screen Shot 2021-12-06 at 11.05.46 AM copy.png

Screen Shot 2022-05-18 at 1.51.58 PM.png

Thought of doing the same myself...then I thought about all those opportunities for a crack to develop from those holes in a wheel never designed for so many...and I chickened out. Looks good.

Mick Richards

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