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TR6 with no oil pressure - Anyone have any ideas or suggestions please


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Hello Everyone,

We are a bit stuck and would welcome any help or suggestions please.

Having finally got round to changing the diff mounts on my 1972 TR6 I now have another worrying issue as no oil pressure.

Probably my fault due to lack of use as she has been sat waiting to come out into the sunshine for over 2 years, but oil pressure was fine when last used.

That said she fires up and ironically seems to be running fine, except now no oil pressure. Obvioulsy I have only run her for a few seconds at a time whilst trying to sort her out.

So far we have taken off the pressure relief valve and cleaned, put oil down the switch opening, replaced spin on oil filter (filled with oil) and ensured engine oil is topped up, put some oil down the oil coiler pipes although there was some in there anyway. So obvioulsy tried to give pump as much help as possible to pick up oil.

I guess it could be that I just haven't let her run long enough, but obviously don't want to be gung ho and risk engine damage.

If the oil pump was knackered then presumably it would crunch or protest in some way but nothing, engine runs with no undue noises etc.

We thought possibly it could be some freak thing with airlock/blockage in the pressure valve/switch chamber, but oil runs down through switch opening. Can't be switch as if removed then no oil spraying about the place.

Bit confused dot com now so any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.

Phil

Edited by droptoptr
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I doubt it is the result of un-use for 2 years, I have done that and the oil pressure is fine.  Might be the gauge stuck? Does the low op telltale go out ?

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Posted (edited)

Hello Peter,

Blimey that was quick, thanks for your reply.

Yes I've never had any issues before as quite often she has had extended periods off the road in my 27 years of ownership, particularly in the last 18 years or so since full rebuild/restoration which included the engine.

Our first thought was that it would hopefully most likley be the oil gauge sticking as normally runs good pressure, but green oil light NOT going out which is the main concern.

Phil

Edited by droptoptr
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2 minutes ago, droptoptr said:

Hello Peter,

Blimey that was quick, thanks for your reply.

Yes I've never had any issues before as quite often she has had extended periods off the road in my 27 years of ownership, particularly in the last 18 years or so since full rebuild/restoration which included the engine.

Our first thought was that it would hopefully most likley be the oil gauge sticking, but green oil light not going out which is the main concern.

Phil

so, both the gauge and light show no oil pressure?

Peter

 

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On the basis it was caused by the last thing you did..... the rear was jacked up high to get at the diff?  Did you start the engine when the car was tilted nose-down? that might have sucked air into the oil pump. Running at tick-over may allow the trapped air to escape.

Peter

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Peter,

We had wondered that too, but did not start until back flat on the ground.

Diff mounts done yesterday afternoon and she was back flat on her wheels before we tried her with no joy. So she was left flat until trying all the other stuff mentioned this morning.

So she's had 16 hours for the oil to run back to where it should be?

Perhaps I just need to be brave and let her run for longer then, but a bit concerning....

Phil

 

Edited by droptoptr
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Old design engines would often run at tickover at zero psi. I doubt you would do any damage, but wait until others respond. Maybe jack up the front to deepen the oil around the pump?

Peter

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I had thought about the jacking up front idea, but we have put more oil in, via various places.

She does have an oil cooler too which I guess would perhaps add to the time taken to reach pressure.

Thank you for taking the time to respond Peter, much appreciated.

Phil

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Phil, I just happened to be passinng. Its a very active forum, you'll get more advice soon. Someone will have had the problem before.

Peter

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There have been oil pumps around that had the drive dog just press fitted and not pinned on so its a long shot but it maybe that the pump isnt driving at all.

Stuart

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1 hour ago, ntc said:

 

Thanks for all the replies but the old girl has finally cooperated...

As I mentioned before, the engine was running fine with no nasty noises and so we felt the pump must have been doing something.

After a visit from my friends retired mechanic father, and a couple of good yanks on the throttle cable later, hey presto oil light off and oil pressure needle hit the stop!

Appreciate this sorted the specific issue with my car after help from a knowledgable chap with many years experience of his own triumph cars.

I would certainly NOT RECOMMEND this approach to anyone else as could have catastrophic consequences if your pump has failed.

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The likely reason is that the oil pump had drained and needed priming.

Whilst a blip of high revs might suffice, a safer option would be is to take out the oil PRV and squirt half a pint of oil in there.  This effectively drains into the pump and primes it.

On a newly rebuilt engine it’s worth filling the pump with Lubriplate or other simple lube that won’t drain out before first start.

Another option is to use a battery drill with the torque set low to turn the pump until oil pressure is generated. A bit of a pain on a 6 if the metering unit has already been attached as the dizzy drive needs to be removed to access the pump drive.

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9 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

The likely reason is that the oil pump had drained and needed priming.

Whilst a blip of high revs might suffice, a safer option would be is to take out the oil PRV and squirt half a pint of oil in there.  This effectively drains into the pump and primes it.

On a newly rebuilt engine it’s worth filling the pump with Lubriplate or other simple lube that won’t drain out before first start.

Another option is to use a battery drill with the torque set low to turn the pump until oil pressure is generated. A bit of a pain on a 6 if the metering unit has already been attached as the dizzy drive needs to be removed to access the pump drive.

As above: re PRV. Do not start engine until pump is primed, yellow light must go out on cranking. Remove all 6 plugs and squirt one squirt of oil into each cylinder. If this does not work its sump off remove the pump check for wear if OK pack with Vaseline which will cause suction when engine is cranked and oil light should go out.

Bruce.

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30 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

The likely reason is that the oil pump had drained and needed priming.

Whilst a blip of high revs might suffice, a safer option would be is to take out the oil PRV and squirt half a pint of oil in there.  This effectively drains into the pump and primes it.

On a newly rebuilt engine it’s worth filling the pump with Lubriplate or other simple lube that won’t drain out before first start.

Another option is to use a battery drill with the torque set low to turn the pump until oil pressure is generated. A bit of a pain on a 6 if the metering unit has already been attached as the dizzy drive needs to be removed to access the pump drive.

Thanks Andy,

As previously mentioned we had squirted some oil in to try and help prime pump before the throttle blipping which ultimately sorted it.

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Posted (edited)
11 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

As above: re PRV. Do not start engine until pump is primed, yellow light must go out on cranking. Remove all 6 plugs and squirt one squirt of oil into each cylinder. If this does not work its sump off remove the pump check for wear if OK pack with Vaseline which will cause suction when engine is cranked and oil light should go out.

Bruce.

Thanks Bruce

As above sorted now thanks, fortunately without having to remove sump etc.

Green oil light out and lovely high oil pressure on the gauge. Pump must have been working but something needed clearing to get pressure up.

Phil

Edited by droptoptr
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21 hours ago, droptoptr said:

Thanks Bruce

As above sorted now thanks, fortunately without having to remove sump etc.

Green oil light out and lovely high oil pressure on the gauge. Pump must have been working but something needed clearing to get pressure up.

Phil

Glad you got it sorted!

I am puzzled by the colour of your oil light being green. All the TR that I have worked on it is yellow/orange. Have you replaced the light jewel at some point?

Bruce.

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Bruce, my oil light indicator is green. As far as i know it is original. The car is fairly early 1969 TR6. Just for info.

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3 hours ago, astontr6 said:

Glad you got it sorted!

I am puzzled by the colour of your oil light being green. All the TR that I have worked on it is yellow/orange. Have you replaced the light jewel at some point?

Bruce.

Hello again Bruce

I've owned the old girl for 27 years and as far as I know all gauges still original, black bezels as a 1972 model. Like Martin above the oil light is definitely green and always has been.

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1 hour ago, droptoptr said:

the oil light is definitely green and always has been

I believe this was discussed some years back because someone had an 'oil light' that stayed on when the alternator died.  I think the answer was that it is easy for the oil and ignition lamps to be swapped in their respective holders, and his were the wrong way round. 

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I think youll find its oil and indicator lamps being transposed.

Stuart.

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