Jump to content

New Engine Advice - TR4


Recommended Posts

Hi,

I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine to run well so I'm reaching out for some advice.  The engine runs but doesn't sound great (like a tractor but that could be the exhaust which I think is leaking at the joint in the cross member - no unusual noises though) and more vibration that I would want on tick over.  The car drives (only been driven a few hundred metres so far) - but there is quite some white smoke on acceleration (and sometimes tickover) but not all the time.  The car has a newly rebuilt Peter Burgess stage 2 head and new 89mm pistons/liners with piper yellow cam.  The car has Morris SAE30 running in oil in it at the moment.  Compression has been checked at 145 psi in all cylinders.  Timing and valve clearances checked multiple times.  When I pull the plugs #4 looks wet (I think oil) but the others all look ok.  No sign of any oil in the coolant or vice-versa.

The question is what should I do next?  Options I am thinking of - (1) change the oil to 20/50 (which I think is thicker, than the SAE30) (2) remove the rad/timing cover and check that I have the cam timing right.  Any other thoughts?  Is what I'm proposing worth it?  I'll also be getting some smaller mikalor clamps as i think the ones I have may be to large (51-55mm for 2 inch pipe).

Thanks

Myles

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

It is hard to answer you because you raise multiple questions that need further investigation.

On oil, the first number is cold grade, second is hot. So 20/50 it will be thicker when hot but thinner at cold start, also check the forum for ZDDP so you use the right oil for those old engines.  I personally would not run with SAE30 but oil discussion is a rabbit hole...

Regarding the rest of your issues, you need to go through them in a logical sequence.  Check ignition/distribution, spark plugs (replace them for a test, once wet some do not recover) fueling and carb balance, leaks at manifold in and out.  That may fix your wet plug, and the vibration.  If you still have white smoke, you need further investigation starting with the obvious (head torque setting, oil plug check....) and hoping for the best...

I'm sure you will get more support from the ones who know (and i'm not one of them....) if you raise more precise questions, 

cheers,

Laurent

Link to post
Share on other sites

Myles - you haven't stated your location.  Were you to do so, you might well find some hands-on assistance and advice from some other TR owners in your area.

Ian Cornish

Link to post
Share on other sites

i went through exactly the same on a new  rebuild.

It was spark plugs. i have mentioned before the large amount of fake plugs especially NGK.  

The shaking engine points to firing on 3.

Roy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for your suggestions all.  I re-torqued the head, changed the offending spark plug for a known good old one and removed the PCV valve apparatus from the head.  No more white smoke or oil on the plug so some progress there.  Thinking the PCV valve was the cause of the smoke and torquing the head solved the oily plug.  The car's still not running great (thinking carb setup but could also be the other plugs) so the car's now gone to a specialist for them to set it up properly for me.

Myles

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.