Ocheye Posted May 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2022 Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I have spoken to Pete Cox who had been looking at this thread and also Dave Twigg at Rugby. Both were extremely helpful and both felt that the first port of call should be the solenoid. It hadn't occurred to me that the solenoid could cause these symptoms. I certainly hope that this is the case as it will be a lot more convenient to replace that than anything internal and probably a good deal less expensive Andy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted May 3, 2022 Report Share Posted May 3, 2022 Isn’t it nice to hear of companies giving advice that may provide a low cost fix that they don’t make anything out of. many could say send the box to us and we’ll have a look. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted May 3, 2022 Report Share Posted May 3, 2022 14 minutes ago, Hamish said: Isn’t it nice to hear of companies giving advice that may provide a low cost fix that they don’t make anything out of. many could say send the box to us and we’ll have a look. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted May 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2022 2 hours ago, Hamish said: Isn’t it nice to hear of companies giving advice that may provide a low cost fix that they don’t make anything out of. many could say send the box to us and we’ll have a look. Absolutely Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted May 3, 2022 Report Share Posted May 3, 2022 39 minutes ago, Ocheye said: Absolutely Indeed but before anything check the oil then the electrical supply the switch is a weak link Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted May 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 17 hours ago, ntc said: Indeed but before anything check the oil then the electrical supply the switch is a weak link Both check out ok. First step is to service the solenoid. 'O' rings in the post! If that fails I will replace it. If that fails it is o/d out. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted May 4, 2022 Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 I removed and refitted the J type o/d on my irs 4a without removing the g/b. Saved a lot of work. Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted May 4, 2022 Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 2 hours ago, Ocheye said: Both check out ok. First step is to service the solenoid. 'O' rings in the post! If that fails I will replace it. If that fails it is o/d out. Andy And how did you check them? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 4, 2022 Report Share Posted May 4, 2022 If they’re leaking the operating pressure will drop off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted May 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2022 On 5/4/2022 at 4:27 PM, ntc said: And how did you check them? Put it into normal drive on run. When the filler plug was loosened, oil ran out. Can't add any more. In running the overdrive engages and disengages quickly and smoothly every time on the switch and was tested using a meter quite recently when we were modifying the overdrive mounting plate - belt and braces. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted May 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2022 On 5/4/2022 at 4:55 PM, Drewmotty said: If they’re leaking the operating pressure will drop off. That's what Peter and Dave said. A good clean and new 'O' rings should eliminate the solenoid as a suspect. Fingers crossed that it solves the issue which, I might add, is not causing me any problems under normal running, only when it got very hot climbing lots of hills and giving it a bit of stick. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted May 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Well, sadly, the solenoid service has not done the trick. Dave Twigger at Overdrive Spares has suggested that, because the symptoms are relatively mild, it could indicate that the oil pressure in the overdrive may not be helping the cone clutch engage sufficiently and he has sent me some shims for the pressure relief valve. I hope that the use of EP90 hasn't caused contamination of the friction surfaces as, apparently, Laycock specifically stated that it is undesirable whereas Triumph recommended it for the gearbox. A bit tricky to heed the advice from both organisations! Hey ho, we'll keep plugging away Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted May 10, 2022 Report Share Posted May 10, 2022 Don’t worry about the EP90 in the gearbox and overdrive, whatever the pundits may say. I’ve been using it for 48 years and still have the original clone clutch! james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ocheye Posted May 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2022 On 5/10/2022 at 2:20 PM, Ocheye said: Well, sadly, the solenoid service has not done the trick. Dave Twigger at Overdrive Spares has suggested that, because the symptoms are relatively mild, it could indicate that the oil pressure in the overdrive may not be helping the cone clutch engage sufficiently and he has sent me some shims for the pressure relief valve. I hope that the use of EP90 hasn't caused contamination of the friction surfaces as, apparently, Laycock specifically stated that it is undesirable whereas Triumph recommended it for the gearbox. A bit tricky to heed the advice from both organisations! Hey ho, we'll keep plugging away Andy I may have jumped the gun, perhaps it needed to 'bed in', but I have covered some 270 miles over some pretty demanding terrain and all seems to be as it should be though I haven't had a chance to fit the shims as yet. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted May 28, 2022 Report Share Posted May 28, 2022 If you are running EP90 and suspect a slipping OD clutch I would expect you would smell it it before any significant slip became obvious. Burning EP90 stinks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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