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Trying to diagnose what appears to be a broken axle...


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On a ride, I had a noticeable thunk on a hard corner to the right then shortly later it got noisy mostly on corners.  Pulled over and the left rear wheel was still on there solidly, but definitely angled out at the bottom.  Towed home and looked under and see the backing plate of the left rear wheel separated at the bottom.  From just looking all appears normal to and including the U joint.  I am trying to determine exactly what broke so I can get the part off another TR6 or new.   Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.  Jim

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Hi Jim,

that doesn't sound good.

I think the first thing to do is take the wheel & brake drum off. Pull the drive shaft out and see the condition of the 6 studs that hold the hub in place.

For a gap to exist there may be a number of studs pull out.

Come back with what you find.

 

Roger

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Suspect the rear hub as having damage and maybe a crack through it.

Jack up the rear of the car and with wheels check for movement at 12 and 6 and 9 and 3 across the hub by pushing and pulling on the tyre. If there is movement or signs of damage drop back onto wheels and undo and then remove the wheels and inspect minutely around the hubs. This is what you may have just hanging together

2016661567_StagHubfailure.jpg.b106e46b12a1105be28241611d673cbf.jpg

You may have missed this thread

https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/79974-tr4a-rear-wheel-bearing/&tab=comments#comment-760504

but it's quite possible your problem is covered in it.

Mick Richards

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Sounds like the rear hub area for sure, wheel off and drum off and I'm sure it'll all become clear what's happened pretty quickly. 

Let us know what you find. 

Gareth

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After pulling the wheel and brake drum, I see the inner axle shaft flange nut was way loose.  It tightened right back up.  I am not saying I could use it that way, but it told me the inner shaft was likely not broken.  Could it have been that the inner shaft flange nut just worked loose?  Since these nuts do not use cotter pins, what is it that makes sure they don't work loose?

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Hi Jim,

that external nut uses a monster torque to hold it fast.

Because it has undone it self :blink:  I would suggest that the hub is scrap until it has a complete overhaul and MPI test to all parts.

The stub axle would have sustained some serious odd loads.

Simply re-tightening will not make it better.

 

Roger

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4 hours ago, RogerH said:

Hi Jim,

that external nut uses a monster torque to hold it fast.

Because it has undone it self :blink:  I would suggest that the hub is scrap until it has a complete overhaul and MPI test to all parts.

The stub axle would have sustained some serious odd loads.

Simply re-tightening will not make it better.

 

Roger

My view Roger is: Bin the lot and replace with new. Do not go down the route of Re-con as this is a safety critical item!

Bruce.

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2 minutes ago, astontr6 said:

My view Roger is: Bin the lot and replace with new. Do not go down the route of Re-con as this is a safety critical item!

Bruce.

Hi Bruce,

 quite right. There are some basic lumps that should be OK after a good NDT to them.

The bearings, should they fail, do not cause a great mess.

However the stub axle, no matter what the NDT result is, should be replaced.

 

Roger

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9 hours ago, yellow_cad said:

I'm thinking real hard about swapping out both axles for cv joints from GoodParts.

I have CV axles with hubs. Much better ride and no maintenance.

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