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I have had my back axle serviced and the backplates were welded so that the hand brake can work at last. It is being painted now but when I start to fit it back to the car I should like a couple of photos from other owners who have a fully working brake  system. I am sure there were some here on the forum recently but I could not find them.  A picture when I am connecting everything would be very helpful to get it right the first time. There is a very good instruction on how to fit the spring plates to retain the cylinder on this forum. Is it any help to use a small dab of silicon grease to make sure the cylinder can slide. How is the rubber seal fixed ?

I need a clear detailed picture so that I can fit the backplates in the correct orientation and the brake cables. The compensating  arm on the casing which supports the three cables in the centre, is very loose and needs some service. What can I do ?

I would be very pleased to get some help and a picture ?

Thanks Richard & B

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Richard - I cannot help with photos, but the compensating mechanism is designed to be very floppy in order that it may do its job of equalising the force applied to each of the rear brakes.

Ian Cornish

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Hi Richard

 

the article  in Traction 321 pages 36-37, from our good friend Marco, is very helpful and addresses the questions you have raised re the back plates and cylinder refit. With respect to the handbrake mechanism, the WSM is as good a reference as any. 


 

Iain

 

Edited by iain
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Thanks for the help so far. I just found Traction 321 in the bedside cupboard, and there are pictures and a proper explanation about the retaining clips.

I would still like a picture of the whole axle so that I can get the hydraulic pipes in the right place etc, including strapping them down. It looks as if the clip on the diff cover has been flattened. Can it be improved??

How can I clean the metal connector internally where the flexible joins the two pipes on the axle. It looks very dirty and I have used a short wire but would like a solvent ? It is just black oily dust and it should have been masked off at the beginning. But it is the brakes !!

I will be back out in the garage once the painting is dry.

Very helpful Forum.  Thanks

Richard & B

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Try leaving the connector in  jam jar of brake cleaner……lid on……for a few hrs

Iain

 

 

Edited by iain
Inaccurate axle pipe routing, so photo removed
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On each side, the bundy (hydraulic) tube should be clamped to the axle and should be inside the hoop which restrains vertical movement of the axle. 

In Iain's photo, the bundy tubes appear to be outside the hoop.

Position each tube so that it won't get crushed when hitting a massive bump!

Have a look at Graham Harris's photos in Topic "Rear Brake Pipe Routing" in this Section.

Ian Cornish

Edited by ianc
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Early start on a Sunday for a discussion. I was hoping for Two Way Family Favourites but it has gone.

Meanwhile please could you post a link to Rear Brake Pipe Routing which I could not find easily.

Thanks you for your help.

Richard & B

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Thanks very much for the link. I now have the pictures that I needed and will be busy fitting the brake pipes and cables as soon as the painter has finished.

Richard & B

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  • 2 weeks later...

it is going well, but I need some more advice. I have cleaned all the old paint off the backplate only where the cylinder slides. There were at least three coats of red primer and some black coats as well . So now I am tempted to use only a rust inhibitor, Hammerite Kurust, and some light grease on the bare metal. I could give one coat of aerosol primer but I do not want to make any friction. It is sliding smoothly at the moment.

Please let me know the best answer because I want the handbrake working well and do not want to strip it down again. The clip fitting instructions are very good.  Well done Marco.

Thanks Richard & B

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Ive found a coat of Bondarust and then a coat of black cellulose is still thin enough when the cylinders are fitted with plenty of copperslip to allow good movement. However if there is any depression in the back plate from the handbrake lever wearing then it must be rectified to work properly.

Stuart.

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Thanks for the reply. I just had the backplates welded and they are now flat and smooth. What is a good paint that will last?

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4 minutes ago, Richardtr3a said:

Thanks for the reply. I just had the backplates welded and they are now flat and smooth. What is a good paint that will last?

As my previous post, Bondarust https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165080776504?hash=item266f94bf38:g:px0AAOSwQDphRsma

Black cellulose Paint

I have included these in spray cans as I dont believe you have facilities for anything else.

Stuart.

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Thank you Stuart.  That is very helpful. I do not have any room for painting under cover and wait for a sunny day in the garden.

I will also need some advice on how to make the spring close enough to the axle to allow the u bolts to be fitted. I did it once before by disconnecting the rear end of the springs and using a lever once the u bolts were attached. I had a bigger garage in those days. I am very cramped for space at the moment.

I am sure that you have a useful tip.

Thanks Richard & B

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14 hours ago, Richardtr3a said:

Thank you Stuart.  That is very helpful. I do not have any room for painting under cover and wait for a sunny day in the garden.

I will also need some advice on how to make the spring close enough to the axle to allow the u bolts to be fitted. I did it once before by disconnecting the rear end of the springs and using a lever once the u bolts were attached. I had a bigger garage in those days. I am very cramped for space at the moment.

I am sure that you have a useful tip.

Thanks Richard & B

That method works well Richard dont forget though you need to fit both springs to the U clamps then pull them down one at a time. Its a bit of a faff if you dont have much room but easier than strapping and jacking.

Stuart.

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52 minutes ago, Nobbysr said:

Hi Richard 

Are these photos any use, the rear brake pipe has been re-routed to the correct chassis hole 

back axle (5).jpg

Axle rebuild (26).jpg

wheel cyl install.pdf 391.53 kB · 2 downloads

You still need to bend the axle restraint straps inwards a bit so they contact the axle bump stops on full depression.

Stuart.

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The pictures are very useful and will help me get it right.  This afternoon I found the  handbrake connection  a bit difficult. The short connection will not move fully because the threaded part is too long and prevents full free movement. Tomorrow I will cut off a small 1/8th " and try to get back to free movement.

Thanks very much for such a detailed library.

Richard and B

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Out in the garage 9.30 until 1.30. Difficult to fit the axle on your own. The lhs is over the chassis and the whole unit needs to move sideways another 6 inches to allow the rhs to be lifted higher and then moved to final fixing position. So far I am using my serious jack and a number of wood plank offcuts for levers. 
Tomorrow morning for the last bit of sliding axle sideways. 
Hoping for no rain?

Richard & B

 

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No rain and a fine summer day. I helped my wife with the rambling rose and moving a lot of branches and offcuts. 

Out in the garage at 2.30 and this is a job for two people. I spent a long time moving the axle about 1/2 " each time by using the jack and many levers. I finally called a TR friend for some help but he was away until next month, So I carried on  and finally the axle slipped into the correct position. It took 3 hours today but I don't need any help at the moment.

Tomorrow I will fit the backplates , hydraulics, handbrake,  brake drums and the wheels.I must get it all together before the rain on Tuesday Next time I have an axle problem I will find a local workshop and have a walk by the river with my dog while someone else struggles with these sort of problems.

Richard & B

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Richard - I commend your doggedness, but chaps of our age definitely need another person to help with this particular task.  I have undertaken this job on a number of occasions, with my strong son, Alex, and it was made relatively easy with his assistance.  Still a heavy item, even so!

Recently, I replaced the seal in 4VC's timing cover - a pig of a job as the welded-in skid plate means that the only access is from above..  Even lying over the wing on my stomach, with legs waving in the air, my short arms wouldn't allow me to access the bottom-most bolts.  Without Alex and his longer arms, the job would have been impossible.  Now, for the first time in several years, the car has stopped dribbling oil from its engine.

Ian Cornish

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I have done this job a couple of times (unfortunately). I have a small trolley made of plywood offcuts and four castors that I used to slide it to approximate position and then it’s breath deeply time and go for it. I find that I have a couple of attempts before my arms give out and it’s cup of tea time while I recover. 

Rgds Ian

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  • 3 weeks later...

This is not the fastest job. The axle is fitted and this morning the brakes were bled with the help from my wife which made it straight forward. The wheels are back on and the last part is to fill the back axle with oil.

There must be some special technique for 

  1. Keeping the car level and no jack
  2. Using a small funnel
  3. Pouring oil in such a confined space
  4. Knowing when it is full

Some new fresh oil ended on the cardboard placed underneath as a precaution. Where can I find a container with a tube that works better than the Moss container ?

Please send me some tips.

Thanks Richard & B

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