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New surrey top


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I have just acquired a surrey top frame from Honeybourne Mouldings.  I believe someone makes the plates that fit on the top of the frame to take the H frame and the vinyl roof fixings.

The top of the frame has no holes but there are marks where they should be. Can anyone help?

thanks

Alan Burwood

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I am a bit puzzled by the use of PMs.

Are the rest of us not trusted with these responses or is there a genuine reason for privacy (eg use of personal details).  I understand the mention of the flanged cup (Roger) but am not too sure about the 'L' shaped covers - am I missing something?

Sorry to be a pain.

Bob

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Hi Bobbie,

nothing too secret in my PM to Alan.

Having mentioned that I make the bits I then sent Alan a PM with a little more info and the price of the parts.

Nothing secret there also - The 'L' shaped plates are £15/pair  and the flanged cups are £50/pair ( item #9  HERE )

Roger

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Hi Alan

I hope you keep a photographic record and are able to share it with us. I am a little nervous about tackling a Honeybourne surrey top but would love to know how you get on  and what challenges you have had to face.

Good luck

Andy

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16 hours ago, Ocheye said:

Hi Alan

I hope you keep a photographic record and are able to share it with us. I am a little nervous about tackling a Honeybourne surrey top but would love to know how you get on  and what challenges you have had to face.

Good luck

Andy

Ive got one on my 4a and about to fit two more over the next few months, there is a fair lead time on them at the moment (about 6wks)

I bought mine as a bare frame and an uncut window so I could replicate an original, took a bit of work but worth it as I find their original shape with the more bulky section around the window a bit clunky.

Stuart.

 

IMG_0002.jpg

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11 hours ago, Mark666 said:

What is the cost of honeyborne back light and a Surrey vinyl soft top 

You also need a Surrey frame and rear bar so it works out about £1200 depending on the soft section material plus fitting.

Stuart.

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8 hours ago, stuart said:

You also need a Surrey frame and rear bar so it works out about £1200 depending on the soft section material plus fitting.

Stuart.

The frame with plastic screen was £625 from Honeybourne. In addition I bought the vinyl roof and the fold up frame from TRGB for £120 and a front rail (as per the soft top) for £120 from ebay - I was pleased with this because it was Unipart labeled new stock.  Tnere will be other minor fixings to come, so total so far £865.

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There is a 2nd hand signal red original surrey top for sale in Holland, including the metal and fabric top for 3000 euro. looks to be in good  condition. No personal connection or interest.I somehow cannot post a link, so PM me if interested.

Waldi

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If you look on page 27 of this month’s Traction (336) Revival Motorsport Fabrications have manufactured an exact replica of the original Stanpart backlight frame in cast aluminium. 

Bare frame = £1235.00

Complete kit inc glass/trim etc =£1650

All ex vat.

Kevin

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16 hours ago, Alan B said:

The frame with plastic screen was £625 from Honeybourne. In addition I bought the vinyl roof and the fold up frame from TRGB for £120 and a front rail (as per the soft top) for £120 from ebay - I was pleased with this because it was Unipart labeled new stock.  Tnere will be other minor fixings to come, so total so far £865.

I priced the above as new and also included delivery too which is £40 for the rear section. The rear screen prices are going to increase soon as well.

Stuart.

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12 hours ago, stuart said:

I priced the above as new and also included delivery too which is £40 for the rear section. The rear screen prices are going to increase soon as well.

Stuart.

Stuart, I am currently on my second HB surrey top.

Delivery cost to Australia is eye watering :rolleyes:

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12 hours ago, Malbaby said:

Stuart, I am currently on my second HB surrey top.

Delivery cost to Australia is eye watering :rolleyes:

I bet :(

Stuart.

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On 4/22/2022 at 9:59 AM, stuart said:

Ive got one on my 4a and about to fit two more over the next few months, there is a fair lead time on them at the moment (about 6wks)

I bought mine as a bare frame and an uncut window so I could replicate an original, took a bit of work but worth it as I find their original shape with the more bulky section around the window a bit clunky.

Stuart.

 

IMG_0002.jpg

+1 on the section appearance 

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Hi all

Ive just had this made in aluminium and having invested in the tooling for all the bits I’m happy to get others made. Not a commercial thing, but a better alternative than trying to recover a beaten, rotten and battered original one as I’ve found out.
 

The fit is as good (if not better than) the original alloy roof because it’s hand fettled to an original screen frame and backlight and it takes either the standard headlining bars or the single piece lining sold by MOSS.

If anyone is interested I’m also looking at how the rear stainless strip can be made - I’ve tried in aluminium and brass and the result is ok but not perfect, so still trying to get it done in polished stainless. Much harder than getting the main roof panel made !

Regards

 

Tony


 

 

98720F75-88E4-4D34-8A95-3BCFCE3FD203.jpeg

57F8C985-C950-4AD4-A328-C0CDBD4D06D5.jpeg

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That's a very nice lid Tony, and a credit to the craftsman who made it.  B)

As I'd need to ask .. I cannot afford one.    

And me being me, I'd only modify it anyway :ph34r:

I would however be interested to know how far the screen is from the back-frame, or any other datum,  ie. what is the 'correct' angle of the screen or centreline distance between the two.  I ask because the windscreen on Katie  has been moved (tilted back) when work was done on the car ..as is now evident in the front edge of the door glass on either side being at the wrong angle to the windscreen frame, whereas before they were not so very far out.  And as I have a second-hand grp back screen that I'll be fitting (soon I hope) - it would be rather good to have the windscreen angle correct before I struggle with fitting either hard or soft surrey top. 

Cheers, Pete

 

10 hours ago, Malbaby said:

Tony...is that the original handbrake that you have, or modified?

As (I presume) this is an ex-works TR race car - 5VC ., fitted with roll-over bar and "currently being restored to its former glory"..  I think you'll find the handbrake lever and position was brewed especially for the car and driver.  The standard TR4 handbrake would have been in the footwell, and not on the tunnel. And this one has been fitted as low down beside the drivers seat as practical so as not to intrude so much into driver / navigator elbow space. I considered doing the same to my car.

 

Edited by Bfg
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13 hours ago, Malbaby said:

Tony...is that the original handbrake that you have, or modified?

That will be a modified one for rallying.

Stuart.

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8 hours ago, stuart said:

That will be a modified one for rallying.

Stuart.

Yes, the fore runner of the arrangement that was in the TR4a.

The later arrangement can be much better, so given a choice I’d use a modified twin cable set up and / or a hydraulic.

Regards

Tony 

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13 hours ago, TR4Tony VC said:

Yes, the fore runner of the arrangement that was in the TR4a.

The later arrangement can be much better, so given a choice I’d use a modified twin cable set up and / or a hydraulic.

Regards

Tony 

Would hydraulic alone pass scrutineering?

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart

As long as it has a locking device it will pass, but several have cable attachments specifically for this purpose to address any potential argument. Will pass an MOT irrespective as long as the handbrake can be locked on - not complicated on paper, but various practical issues in use. See what in BST82B next time - all bases covered.

 

regards

Tony 

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