BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 16, 2022 Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) Welcome to Bodge City Trickle from the soldered seam where the extension header meets the top tank. 2 choices after the K Seal did not fix it. Remove the apron and resolder. Or. Scrape clean locally and apply some goop. Which goop to use? Went with JB Weld. Refilled with fresh water and antifreeze, run up to temp, bled system at thermostat housing and heater, left for system to pressurise and the electric fan to cut in. No leaks spotted yet. Gave the drain tap too much welly and have broken the lever off it. It is the block one so have replaced the tap with a stainless blanking plug. Had to buy 5 so have a couple spare if any one is stuck. The Moss mild steel one is £6.00 I paid half that. Found a lot of white corrosion on the aluminium parts. Car radiator cooling system runs blue antifreeze. 50/50 mix with rain water. Brushed clean and refitted. Edited April 16, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted April 16, 2022 Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) Deleted, (didn't read above properly !! Bob Edited April 16, 2022 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 16, 2022 Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 1 minute ago, Lebro said: Simple answer, remove rad, remove all traces of JB weld, & re-solder the joint ( or get a rad repairer to do it if not confident.) Bob And add strengthening web at the same time. (Known fault) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 16, 2022 Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 There is nothing better than an aerospace bodge The white deposits are where the anti freeze isn't. Can the pipe, where the hose fits, be cleaned and painted in some wonderous stuff. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 1 hour ago, RogerH said: There is nothing better than an aerospace bodge The white deposits are where the anti freeze isn't. Can the pipe, where the hose fits, be cleaned and painted in some wonderous stuff. Roger Given Alochrom yes Roger. I just don’t have a sensible source now. Maybe just a coating of lacquer will help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted April 16, 2022 Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) Won’t the SS bolt set up a bit of electrolytic corrosion? It certainly does in the salt water boat world. For what it’s worth, from memory, a standard non overdrive gearbox or diff. drain bolt does an excellent job as a non leaking drain tap replacement. james Edited April 16, 2022 by james christie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 18 minutes ago, james christie said: Won’t the SS bolt set up a bit of electrolytic corrosion? It certainly does in the salt water boat world. For what it’s worth, from memory, a standard non overdrive gearbox or diff. drain bolt does an excellent job as a non leaking drain tap replacement. james Yes you can force it into the block, however, the block is not tapped BSP, which the drain plugs of sump, axle and gearbox are. It is UNF. There is an one tpi difference. Brass BSP drain tap will force into the cast iron block ok ish. But I’d be wary of doing same with a malleable iron plug My stainless plug is coated in E-Z Break hopefully to stop the stainless galling and seizing. https://markal.com/products/ez-break-nickel-grade F9F92A67-C24C-4BBD-A6AE-6DCC17CD9FFE.webp Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted April 16, 2022 Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 1 hour ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: There is an one tpi difference I thnk that’s the bit that does the sealing - with a bit of help from the ptfe tape! james Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2022 3 hours ago, james christie said: I thnk that’s the bit that does the sealing - with a bit of help from the ptfe tape! james Bit like …. How tight? Easy, up till it shears then back a flat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kiwifrog Posted April 17, 2022 Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 I had the same problem with my Radiator, tried all the quick fixes, K Seal, The French equivelent of JB weld etc all worked for a while then it started weeping again. Only fix that has worked long term was to remove radiator clean off all the JB weld Kseal etc and then resolder the joints. Still ok after 3 years, should have put in strengthening webs as suggested by Stuart but did not think of it at the time. cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 17, 2022 Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 7 minutes ago, Kiwifrog said: I had the same problem with my Radiator, tried all the quick fixes, K Seal, The French equivelent of JB weld etc all worked for a while then it started weeping again. Only fix that has worked long term was to remove radiator clean off all the JB weld Kseal etc and then resolder the joints. Still ok after 3 years, should have put in strengthening webs as suggested by Stuart but did not think of it at the time. cheers Alan Well done Alan, and as Mr. Punch would say - "That's the way to do it" Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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