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Steering lock stops


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Does anybody have or know of a source of 156111 steering locks stops, I believe the centre hole should be offset to provide a degree of adjustment, just gone to adjust mine and found they have the hole drilled centrally so no adjustment, I think it’s the repro ones that are drilled centrally.

Failing that is there anybody that could make me a couple of sets ? More than happy to provide beer tokens in return.

many thanks 

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The TR4A/5/6 are all drilled centrally, its TR2/3/3a/3b/4 that are offset, there is a different height to the later ones too. Revingtons do supply offset ones for the later cars but they arent a particularly good fit.

Stuart.

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Ah thanks Stuart I might need to go for some thin  wheel spacers then 

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1 hour ago, Graham said:

Does anybody have or know of a source of 156111 steering locks stops, I believe the centre hole should be offset to provide a degree of adjustment, just gone to adjust mine and found they have the hole drilled centrally so no adjustment, I think it’s the repro ones that are drilled centrally.

Failing that is there anybody that could make me a couple of sets ? More than happy to provide beer tokens in return.

many thanks 

Simple to make given some dimensions.  

The 156111 is not offset as Stuart has written and is almost twice the length of the early car (2-4) eccentric type.   
  Are you missing the lock stops?  
 What is causing the touch?
 If it is wider wheels and tyres then adding a spacer will help but will add other loads to the puny standard front wheel bearings.

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35 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Simple to make given some dimensions.  

The 156111 is not offset as Stuart has written and is almost twice the length of the early car (2-4) eccentric type.   
  Are you missing the lock stops?  
 What is causing the touch?
 If it is wider wheels and tyres then adding a spacer will help but will add other loads to the puny standard front wheel bearings.

Yes I’m running 6” rims and on full lock one rim is just ‘kissing’ the top ball joint, but have CDD updated hubs and bearings.

 

 

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26 minutes ago, Graham said:

Yes I’m running 6” rims and on full lock one rim is just ‘kissing’ the top ball joint, but have CDD updated hubs and bearings.

 

 

Sometimes you can get away with just grinding a little off the outer end edge of the top arms and using a half nylock instead of a full one.

Stuart.

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28 minutes ago, Graham said:

Yes I’m running 6” rims and on full lock one rim is just ‘kissing’ the top ball joint, but have CDD updated hubs and bearings.

 

 

When you say the rim is kissing the top ball joint, are you able to see that?   Often the issue is one of the top ball joint bolts is doing the touching.   The bolts should be fitted with the nuts at the front, so as to reduce the bit poking out to the rear.

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11 hours ago, Graham said:

Yes I’m running 6” rims and on full lock one rim is just ‘kissing’ the top ball joint, but have CDD updated hubs and bearings.

 

 

I fitted the oversize stops Revington sell to prevent this when I had 205 tyres. The downside is the larger turning circle.

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9 hours ago, John Morrison said:

Hi Graham thing I have some spacers if you need.

 

John.

John many thanks but I have now ordered some spacers along with some 5/16 rod to make some new steering stops and with Stuart’s suggestion of grinding back the top arms think I have all bases covered. With me doing it what could possibly go wrong :ph34r:

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In the 90's it was a big deal in the US to go to 15" x 7" zero offset Panasports with 215/65 tires. This combination put the tires about 1/4" outbound from stock. In order to minimize any interference, the procedure was:

1. Poly bushes, important to take out any slop in the suspension.  

2. Use weights that only glued to the middle inside of the rims.

3. Reverse the top outmost A arm bolt and use a 2 - 1/4" Grade 8 bolt (1/4" shorter than stock).

4. Radius the corner of the top A arm. (if need be).

 

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