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Hi.

I am looking for some replacement ventilated disc for my TR3A. My car is fitted with 4 Pot alloy calipers (Nissan Skyline GTR) that require 28mm disc. The ones I have been using for the past 21 years are re-drilled Chrysler Voyager. Current regs in Australia ban re-drilled disc so need a replacement. The Revington ones are 22mm.

I could machine the calipers to take the thinner disc but would prefer not to.

Can anyone suggest where I might get some

 

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They look just like mine. Unfortunately re-drilling disc is illegal for on road use in Australia. I chose the Voyager disc because it had the correct diam and same offset as the original TR3 disc. Also its center hole was smaller than the TRs which allowed machining to fit. That also is now illegal here.

I had to machine the calipers to run on 26mm Voyager disc. I only reduced the calipers by 2mm and change my pads early. The remaining 6mm  diff with the 22mm disc is a bit much. I am hoping not to have to machine the calipers again.

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4 hours ago, Trumpy3 said:

They look just like mine. Unfortunately re-drilling disc is illegal for on road use in Australia. I chose the Voyager disc because it had the correct diam and same offset as the original TR3 disc. Also its center hole was smaller than the TRs which allowed machining to fit. That also is now illegal here.

I had to machine the calipers to run on 26mm Voyager disc. I only reduced the calipers by 2mm and change my pads early. The remaining 6mm  diff with the 22mm disc is a bit much. I am hoping not to have to machine the calipers again.

Given that disc pads are usually around 12mm thick when new and are fitted to both sides of the disc that gives around 24mm of wear potential, I cannot see that losing 3mm of wear from each side will make a lot of difference. I would fit the revington 22mm discs and change the pads when half worn, which will still give you about 20,000 miles of use per set.

Ralph

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Ian

Good question. When I got this car, it was a 'kit car'. Came in boxes. When I started on the restoration I found that a lot of bits were missing. Virtually all the brake parts and steering. Down here, replacement original parts can be hard to get. Also my commencement of restoration was immediately after retirement so it became my project. I restored an ex race TR3A back in the 70's back to original. I continued on that course until I won our Nation Concourse. I later sold that car and purchased a 1962 Maserati 3500GTI. Bad move, should have kept the TR and gave the Maser a miss. Anyway 12 years on I purchased my current TR.

This was to be a working TR, not a show car. All my working life has been in the technical area of transport, air and ground. So I continually look at ways to update/improve it or simply look for things to do.. I do all my own technical design and work except for body work. I enjoy all the little projects. While the body work and chassis is all original, every think else is up for grabs.

As for the brakes, in 2020 my brake man offered my a set of recon Skyline calipers for $300. The rest is history. This history has resulted in, IBT EFI, rack and pinion steering, 4 wheel disc, Volvo radiator, cruise control, camber kit, horizontal rear tubular shocks, electric water pump, alternator, radiator shutters, vacuum pump, paddle shift for the OD,TR2 flywheel with 2500 sports clutch kit on 2500 gearbox with J type OD, repositioning of hand brake leaver, full EVAP system.

Ralph

Yes early change of pads is an option but I'm not sure the engineer that has to write the report on this for the authorities will pass it so am looking for an alternative.  Rules down here are getting very tight and registration of non standard historic cars is getting much harder.

Aren't you glad you ask.

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1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said:

Idiot question, but why would you need ventilated discs and four pot callipers on a TR3a road car?

Rgds Ian

It is possible to drive a road car hard.

Have cooked the brakes in the alps in the past which hasn't happened since with the vented discs. Not gone for 4 pots as the existing calipers are up to the job.

 

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Given all the rest of the modified stuff on the car and you say they dont like rotors being machined but they pass the rest seems a bit of a strange rego system.

Stuart.

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Your regs…are they written by that knuckle head the mayor of London? 

The man who decided that low co2 emitting cars were not green?   And charges for their use on London’s roads, when the government gives them a road tax of zero or £30 per year.  

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There are nine different sets of registration rules in Australia. One for each state and the national one that sits over them known as ADRs (Australian Design Rules. To register a car in Australia, it must meet the ADRs that were in force when the car was manufactured. There are some over-riding ones such as re-drilling brake disc that came into force about 2010 and not restricted to the date the car was manufactured. If you move residency from one state to another (say Queensland to Tasmania), your car need to be re-registered.

This is not normally an issue but the problems arise with the Historic Vehicle System (HVS), again each state has its own set of rules but ADRs still apply. I believe you have a similar system where applicable vehicles pay a much reduced registration(tax). In NSW where I live, HVS  cost $42.00 per year where full registration cost around $900.00, including compulsory third party insurance. Use of the vehicle is restricted to advertised events for any car clubs you are a member, plus 60 days (a log book system). Well worth the effort.

HVS requires the car to be basically as manufactured. To accommodate modified or kit cars they have just (three years ago) introduced the CVS (Classic Vehicle System). The cost and usage rules are the same as HVS but the car can be modified. Because of the mods on my TR, I must register it under this scheme. There are a long list of mods that require an engineering report and except for the re-drilling of disc, which is an ADR, mine is engineered and acceptable.

Because of the number of people abusing the system, officialdom is really clamping down on vehicle eligibility. My only issue is the disc which was acceptable in 2021 when my car was engineered but has since been made unacceptable due to the introduction of this particular ADR. You could put the car on full registration and bypass the CVS,HVS system but the rules to place the car on full registration are the same as CVS except the usage is unrestricted and it cost $900.00 more.

Sorry about the history lesson but this is currently becoming a big deal for older car owners here. We don't want the system removed which is the threat.

Brian

 

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Sorry, my car was first passed in 2001, not 2021. Also the vehicle must be over 30 years old from date of manufacture to qualify for HVS and CVS. This means a replica Ford GT40 built in 2020 must meet ADRs in force in 2020 (seat belts, side intrusion bars, catalytic converter etc).

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Good God, I hope it never gets that beurocratic in Britain, though we are edging closer. Over here a classic has no Road tax to pay at all, with unlimited use of vehicle, we do not have to have a compulsory annual vehicle test, and classic insurance is a fraction of every day car insurance.

However there are some strange rules, to qualify as a classic it must have the original type of engine, suspension and steering, though you can use a different type of gearbox, and the vehicle has to be over 40 years of age.

A lot of TR3s that have had steering rack conversions are therefore not strictly eligible for classic status unless you can prove that it was done more than 40 years ago.

When talking of re drilled discs, are they talking about the mounting of the disc to the hub or cross drilling of the disc face. I cannot see any problem with taking a disc and drilling 4 new mounting holes at 45 degrees to the original in order to fit them, and do the inspectors dismantle the cars  to check?

Ralph

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Except for surface grinding, no machining is allowed. I have not been able to get a suitable disc that does not have a least a five bolt pattern and a center hole that fits the hub.

Here the car only has to be 30 years old to be historic and inspections are required annually. The cost to own a fully insured and registered a TR3 for me is about $220.00 per year plus a $40.00 inspection fee.

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  • 2 weeks later...

David.

For me to go back to original would require a complete system change, master cyl, rear brakes, brake lines both flex and ridged. For me that is not an option. I have a DBA catalog. That is how I found the Voyager disc. They do not list any TR 2-8 disc (rotors) in the Australian catalog.

 

Peter,

Yes shims are an option or I could machine the calipers to accommodate the thinner disc. My concern is the offset that may require a caliper mount modification, and the diameter that may also require a mod.

If the offset is within 2mm of original then I can live with that.

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