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Ignition switch playing up - methinks?


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How do, I hope all are well and safe in this crazy world. 
 

The ignition switch on my TR6 has decided it won’t give power to the fuel pump until it turns far enough to fire the starter motor, and then stops the power to the pump once the motor fires and the key goes back to normal running point. Is this a common issue out there? I am assuming because everything does work, just not at the right time, that the switch is most likely the issue? So a replacement needed?

But I was also wondering if anyone has put a push button starter in place. I know, but just because……?

and if so, any recommendations on bits to use?

Thanks

Owen

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You turn the key to the normal running position and the fuel pump does not run, is that correct?

But pump starts when cranking using the ignition key?

If so is your car running a 12volt coil and not a coil with ballast resistor? 

Alan

 

Edited by barkerwilliams
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Hi Alan, yes, you are right about the turn of the key and events. But this is the first time I've hit the issue, and nothing has changed in the set up or kit. So i dont think its the coil? I drove the car about a month ago and its been sat in garage since.

A friend came over who wanted to see it in action and it just plain refused - for the first time ever.

I cannot see what else it could be but a contact that is not happening.

The key goes through the turns. When the key goes to the normal point of lighting up the ignition and firing up the fuel pump nothing happens.

But just before the starter motor fires - there at that point everything comes to life.

But the key drops back to running point and all turn off again........ So i am thinking theres a bad or dirty contact? 

Or is there an electrical whizz I'm missing?

Thanks for any thoughts, i'm pretty stumped beyond just thinking its the switch.... I'm more mechanics than electrics I'm afraid...

Regards Owen

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Definitely sounds like the ignition switch, can you temporarily jump the wire for ignition on position to confirm you get power, and therefore the switch is the issue? 

Gareth

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Owen,

I would turn ignition on check there is 12 v being supplied from the key at the inertia cut out. If no voltage then key looks likely, if 12v is present then most likely dirty contacts in cutout switch. 

A modern car fuse connects nicely in the two spade connectors to bypass the inertia switch as a test.

Alan

 

 

 

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Doh! Thanks Alan, tried that, dead at inertia switch. Pulled ignition switch out of lock, turned dial to running, nothing, until i squeezed the switch front to back... all came to life. Very repeatable, so must be switch body rather than wiring further back. So, off to get a new switch.... Guess i should have done that first, just didnt have any hint anything was wrong with that switch... All the best to all, and thanks again...

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