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Put my new spinners on with my new lead hammer yesterday. Also used it to take off the old spinners. Have to say it does the job OK and doesn`t mark the spinners yet, but the same cannot be said of the hammer, the head of which now has large dents in, mainly caused by removing the old spinners. I never overly tighten them up, just a couple of gentle bangs with the hide mallet previously used, but they always self tighten and require a few heavy blows to undo them.

Anyway a new lead hammer at £30 is cheaper than a new set of spinners at £120+

Ralph

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Lead hammers always deform but can be fettled, lead filled and reshaped when they get too bad; which is almost never :-)……..it does seem a shame to dent up those shiny new hammers tho. 

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Ralph - "a couple of gentle bangs with hide mallet" is not sufficient, nor is relying on self-tightening. 

If this is your regime, then I think you have been fortunate not to have shed a wheel.

Ian Cornish

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On 3/27/2022 at 7:17 PM, ianc said:

Ralph - "a couple of gentle bangs with hide mallet" is not sufficient, nor is relying on self-tightening. 

If this is your regime, then I think you have been fortunate not to have shed a wheel.

Ian Cornish

Maybe sounds more gentle than it is. I keep knocking the spinners on with the mallet  alternating form one ear to the other  untill they stop turning, then give a couple of extra clouts on each ear. When I say "gentle bangs", it is in relation to the full blown clouts I have to use to undo them again.

Ralph

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Understood, Ralph - you must be using sufficient force to be safe.

I recall watching mechanics replacing the wheels on one of the cars racing in the Targa Florio (when it was the real race).  The car had shed a wheel on the fastest part of the course, the long straight along the sea shore.  The wheel and spinner were rescued by spectators, permitting the car to return to the pits.  The mechanics use a lot of force (and I mean a LOT) to ensure that the wheels remained on the car !

I never used quite that much force on my old TR2 in the 1960s.

Ian Cornish

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23 hours ago, david ferry said:

I use one of these.

spanner.thumb.jpg.6d91a2b5954729793073c69b26672723.jpg

I want one,

Ralph

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I have always treated my spinners in the same manner and not had a problem as yet; touching wood at this point. 
I keep the splined lightly brushed with copper grease but ensure that the tapers and spinner are dry bare metal and free of any paint. With the wheel off the ground the spinner is seated while the wheel is wiggled by hand and then given a couple of light taps to ensure full seating. The wheel is then lowered to the ground for final tightening without impact loads going through the bearings. A lead hammer is used to “knock” (more than a tap, less than a clout) the spinners until they stop tightening and there is a subtle change in the sound of the impact. 
I’ve paint marked the spinners in the past but never seen any evidence of movement in use, either tightening or loosening. 
I usually check them after driving for a bit but have rarely found them other than very tight. They alway take a proper clout to loosen them off…..initially with the wheel on the ground. 
I’ve no idea what torque is being generated but it may be interesting to find out once I can think of a measurement method. 
That spanner looks the “dogs”, a quantum leap from the plywood toys. 

Edited by Drewmotty
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I found a spanner with 2 levers works very well, this eliminates the lateral (sideward) reaction force on the hub, providing pure torque to the spanner.

Waldi

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Just now, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Did......................another item out of stock now.

Stuart.

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Beautifully made - I am glad to know that

You will only need a 50 to 250 ft/lb torque wrench.

Apart from the fact that torque is expressed in lb.ft (not feet per pound), a torque wrench which goes to 250 lb.ft is twice as beefy as the long Britool one which I use on the cylinder head nuts of the TR.  I would need a lever about a metre or more in length to be able to exert that torque.

Ian Cornish

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Prompted by Ian C’s post I did a quick Google search on the right tightening torque for wire wheel spinners. The general consensus seems to be about 220ft-lbs so the idea of a 50 to 250 torque wrench is not wrong. It’ll need a good pull though. 

Rgds Ian

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7 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

Prompted by Ian C’s post I did a quick Google search on the right tightening torque for wire wheel spinners. The general consensus seems to be about 220ft-lbs so the idea of a 50 to 250 torque wrench is not wrong. It’ll need a good pull though. 

Rgds Ian

…..or as stated earlier in this thread 300 Nm.  (221 lbs ft or ft lbs   So that means…..221 lbs one foot away or one lb 221 ft away from the centre of the thread?)

 

 

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Yes Peter,
that is correct.

But if you eliminate the friction that results from the “side”-force less torque is needed for the same result.

What happens:

If you apply torque with either a torque wrench or your foot on a certain distance, you lead the nut with that torque, but part of it get’s lost in friction as a result of the lateral force you also create while doing this.

So “pure torque”, without that lateral force is more efficient, i.e. you can lower the required torque. When pulling on both sides with equal force (like with a T-bar), this lateral force is reduced to…zero.

Off course, friction remains, this is why lubrication is important.

Cheers,
Waldi

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I get the overall picture and i'm between going for the hammer or buy the right equipment to do it in more "precisely", that means a long bar, the right spanner for a 2 ears spinner and a torque wrench that goes 300NM.

I have another newbie question, why not using an airgun set up on 300NM? It would be easy to undo the spinners with one with the wheel in the air, same goes to lock them?

cheers,

Laurent

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On 3/31/2022 at 5:36 PM, stuart said:

Did......................another item out of stock now.

Stuart.

Paul Harris, the tyre man who advertises in TRAction, does a similar tool, cadmium plated, but separate handle. Or at least used to, I bought one from him at Malvern a few years ago. An excellent tool.

Phil.

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40 minutes ago, Lo100469 said:

I get the overall picture and i'm between going for the hammer or buy the right equipment to do it in more "precisely", that means a long bar, the right spanner for a 2 ears spinner and a torque wrench that goes 300NM.

I have another newbie question, why not using an airgun set up on 300NM? It would be easy to undo the spinners with one with the wheel in the air, same goes to lock them?

cheers,

Laurent

You may have seen the results of the tyre monkeys tightening normal nuts with air impacts Laurent...not to be recommended. The impact gives only an approximate fixing, it has to, the impact results in a variable load when tightening, the "stiffness "of the spinner or any fastening should be overcome by a consistent torque to allow measuring of force to be done accurately. Undoing however could be done without fear of mistake with an impact gun.

Mick Richards  

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On 3/30/2022 at 9:16 AM, david ferry said:

I use one of these.

spanner.thumb.jpg.6d91a2b5954729793073c69b26672723.jpg

My 1971 Elan Sprint came with a Pig ugly but, very effective mild steel welded box bar equivalent…… I sold it along with the spare unused spinners to an enthusiast in Canada for what seemed like a good price ……. but then the postage cost me a fortune !

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