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Handbrake lever removal


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Good afternoon,

I'm trying to remove the handbrake lever on my TR2 as it won't hold on - suspect old solidified grease (other ideas welcome!). I've undone the two bolts that mount the plate to the chassis bracket but it won't budge. What am I missing?

Thanks, Brian

Handbrake lever.jpg

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16 minutes ago, Lebro said:

The big bolt (item 22 in diagram) goes right into the chassis, & will need to be undone.

Bob

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/hand-brake/handbrake-tr2-4-1953-65.html

Ah, I thought that just bolted to the plate, secured with nut 23 (which looks awkward to get to!). I will give it a go.

Thanks, Brian

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I see what you mean, maybe it does not go right into the chassis, but is attached to the plate through a third hole. & secured with the nut.

Been a while since I had mine off !

Bob

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Bob, you were right, the pivot bolt goes through the plate, screws into a lug in the chassis, and goes right through. The lock nut goes on the inside of the chassis but in my case was absent, just as well because it's impossible to access with the exhaust pipe in place. Moss diagram is not very clear.

I've managed to extract the ratchet with much fiddling about and it looks OK? I can't figure out how to dismantle any further - the button doesn't come out far enough to remove it from the rod. Perhaps I'll just apply some grease and put it back.

Also don't know what the hole in the end of the ratchet is for? 

Brian

Ratchet.jpg

Edited by Brian Eldred
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Agree the ratchet teeth look ok, you probably need to remove the pawl from the lever & re-shape it to give a better lock into the ratchet.

It does come out. Have you removed the pin that the pawl pivots on ? with that out you should be able to detach the button from the rod.

Don't know what the hole is for !

Bob

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I had removed the pawl pin, and with a bit more fiddling about I got it pushed in far enough to remove the button and the rest of the gubbins. The pawl was fitted the wrong way round! I surprised it ever worked at all...

I've ground the pawl to make it a bit more pointy, put it all back together and it's functioning as it should now. One job ticked off the list..

Thanks for your help Bob,

Brian 

Pawl.jpg

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Wow, I am really surprised that the handbrake stayed on at all !  still it did mean the ratchet did not get any wear whilst it was like that.

Glad you got it all sorted, the early handbrakes need to be in good condition (to stay on when required) or you just can't trust them.

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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Whatever you do dont buy a new ratchet section as theyre just wrong.

Stuart.

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1 hour ago, stuart said:

Whatever you do dont buy a new ratchet section as theyre just wrong.

Stuart.

Yep, I've replaced a few and the new ones don't fit.

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4 hours ago, stuart said:

Whatever you do dont buy a new ratchet section as theyre just wrong.

Stuart.

Luckily I wont have to.

The car hasn't been properly on the road since it was rebuilt 25 years ago, apart from me doing a few miles testing things out. It seems the previous owner got this bit of the rebuild wrong, though strangely it worked for a while!

Brian

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I had to buy a new ratchet, and it did fit. However I had to file some clearance for the pawl at the top of the ratchet near the hole, as can be seen on Brian`s photo, otherwise the pawl hits and prevents the last 3 or so notches being used. Another example of a re-manufactured part being "almost right". Do you think they are deliberately made different so as not to infringe copyright.

Ralph

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2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

Do you think they are deliberately made different so as not to infringe copyright.

More likely it is a part made for another type of car which is 'almost right- so good enough'.  Saves re-tooling costs. 

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4 hours ago, RobH said:

More likely it is a part made for another type of car which is 'almost right- so good enough'.  Saves re-tooling costs. 

Not when I commissioned the remake of the ratchet and pawl in the 1980’s

The maker was supplied with NOS handbrake assembly with the mechanism installed plus factory  drawings of  both items.    
Originally the items were stamped then the teeth were milled in.  Or remakes were laser cut.   The hardness I think was case hardening.

I guess Moss no longer buy from that UK supplier as they are probably now defunct.….and the first off samples are still ‘on test’ in my TR.

 

picture of my original off the car test hand brake.

 

 

 

78DB2A30-3B49-4AD3-B4F2-338196BE416E.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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On 3/9/2022 at 9:52 AM, stuart said:

Whatever you do dont buy a new ratchet section as theyre just wrong.

Stuart.

 

On 3/9/2022 at 11:09 AM, John McCormack said:

Yep, I've replaced a few and the new ones don't fit.

I wonder if there are 2 different makers then, because I had no problem fitting mine other than the aforesaid extra clearance to obtain full travel. Cannot remember now who I bought it from, but it was probably Moss.

Has anyone converted a handbrake to normal operation, ie push button to release, I`m always concerned that I might catch the lever while getting out and accidentally release it. I converted several to "fly off" on Escorts and Imps in my youth when I was rallying.

Ralph

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I had wondered the same, fun though "fly off "is (catching out the MOT man etc) It is an accident waiting to happen !

I have looked at the construction on several occasions, & can't see an obvious way of doing it.

Bob

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