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broken calliper bleed


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16 minutes ago, trchris said:

Easy out works well come in all sort of sizes

Chris

I definitely wouldnt try that in a caliper hence my suggestion of the above removers.

Stuart.

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I've never know an easy-out to succeed, they tend to expand the screw you're trying to extract so they grip harder in the hole. I've seen a video on youtube where someone uses a Torx bit hammered into the centre hole, which seems successful, and pretty cheap to try.

Pete

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Which ever method I'd suggest trying with the calliper held in a vice. Place some blue tack around it to form a dell and fill it with penetrating oil and leave it for a couple of days then have a crack at it. If you get it out do as Stuart has suggested before and replace the bleed screw with a brass one from Atomec.

Best of luck and let us know the outcome.

Andy 

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i thought that the torx bit sounded a good choice. As it had been soaking in wd40 all weekend i drilled a slightly larger hole and tapped in a torx bit, used an impact drive and snapped of the torx flush with the caliper .:( so now i am in a fix as no drill bit that i have will touch the broken torx  .

Should have waited for Stuart's suggestion  to come 

Roy

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42 minutes ago, roy53 said:

i thought that the torx bit sounded a good choice. As it had been soaking in wd40 all weekend i drilled a slightly larger hole and tapped in a torx bit, used an impact drive and snapped of the torx flush with the caliper .:( so now i am in a fix as no drill bit that i have will touch the broken torx  .

Should have waited for Stuart's suggestion  to come 

Roy

Spark eroding?

https://multispark.co.uk/spark-eroding/

?

Try BiggRed in Worcester    https://www.biggred.co.uk/
 

how much is an used caliper?  perhaps a wanted ad on here will turn one up.  

 

Peter W

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I know this is too late, but WD40 isnt a good penetrant.    The makers claim "thousands" of uses but while it's very good as a water dispersant and corrosion protector, none of the others really stand up.    

I've been impressed by Innotec Deblock.  Sprayed and allowed to soak in, its never failed me.

John

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Sounds like its too late and expensive to salvage it now, probably cheaper and less hassle to buy another calliper then fit a brass bleed nipple! 

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1 hour ago, roy53 said:

i thought that the torx bit sounded a good choice. As it had been soaking in wd40 all weekend i drilled a slightly larger hole and tapped in a torx bit, used an impact drive and snapped of the torx flush with the caliper .:( so now i am in a fix as no drill bit that i have will touch the broken torx  .

Should have waited for Stuart's suggestion  to come 

Roy

Can you weld a nut to what's left of the bleed screw?

Pete

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14 hours ago, roy53 said:

i thought that the torx bit sounded a good choice. As it had been soaking in wd40 all weekend i drilled a slightly larger hole and tapped in a torx bit, used an impact drive and snapped of the torx flush with the caliper .:( so now i am in a fix as no drill bit that i have will touch the broken torx  .

Should have waited for Stuart's suggestion  to come 

Roy

If you have gas bottles (doesn't everybody ?...perhaps not these days) heat the broken torx bit up to cherry red (softens it) and then centre pop the centre (as close as will do) and drill the torx out with a stellite drill, (available on line or at your favourite tool store) The torx bit is of the same material (perhaps a little softer) than the famous "easy outs" (never have products been so badly named) which are a guarantee of ending up in the same position.

I'm afraid the impact drive idea is one to put back in the box, what you need is a constant increasing torque that breaks the grip of the fastening without breaking the tool used (in your case the torx). The hammering affect just exacerbates the stress factor (on off on off) which pulverises the material of the torx.

Mick Richards   

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Mick, for a broken part embedded into a caliper, won't welding work better than a flame?    The intense concentrated heat of the weld will get the Torx hotter than the flame as heat passes into the large heat sink of the heavy mass of the caliper.

But you do what you can!

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If you use heat you are probably going to ned to rebuild the caliper anyway as the heat may be enough to affect the seals.

I guess judicious TIG welding of the broken part might remain localised enough not to transfer a risky anount of heat. Or possibly you could fill the caliper with water to above the seal level which would reduce the risk of cooking the piston seals and the ones between the caliper halves.

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Just worth considering using MAPP rather than a straight Butane blow torch. It is somewhat hotter.

I was sorting a nut on my clio the other day, Butane didn't touch it but MAPP sorted it nicely.

If you have access to a MIG or TIG then that does give a much higher energy transfer over a smaller area which can work really well.

(Just so you don't feel left out, I broke and easyout off in the same situation. It came out eventually)

Tim

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Roy  - if it's of any help, I have a nearside OE caliper which has been rebuilt by Past Parts - the other half of the pair was written off because of corrosion in the bleed nipple seat, so this is available on it's own - I bet you need an offside one!

If this may be of interest, either call or PM me.

Cheers Rich

 

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