boxofbits Posted February 27, 2022 Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 Hi all I’ve removed the vent cover from the car today and noticed the mounting bracket that supports the cover has pulled away slightly at each end. It’s obviously where the attached cable pulls on the bracket to close it. Is it normally spot welded at the ends to the cover to prevent this happening, have they pulled away or is this just how it was designed? Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 27, 2022 Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 (edited) Thats the spot wed given way, it often happens with them, I usually unpick it completely then de rust the two surfaces and then coat with weldthru Zinc primer and spot weld them back together . They were out of stock for a while so probably best repair what you have. Stuart. Edited February 27, 2022 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 27, 2022 Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 They are back in stock https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/vent-lid-assembly-705242.html?assoc=588929 I would dunk it in rust remover for 24Hrs before painting. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 27, 2022 Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 Also a thin sliver of sealer around where the hinge is spotted on to the lid, this will prevent the same thing happening again as its a known rust area. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 27, 2022 Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 Seeing how they corroded in that joint I decided make my own using SS. As it was not going to be painted I could not weld it so I used some rather expensive Concorde Araldite. The small layer of adhesive probably cost more than the SS Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted February 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2022 (edited) Thanks for your advice Stuart and Roger. I think I might be lucky and caught it before it’s got really rusted between the two surfaces. I only noticed it when working on the wiper boxes ( I seem to have lost the short end piece of tubing down in the drain channel but hoping I can get a long bendy magnet down in there tomorrow!) As the vent is the original I’m inclined to repair it. The replacement does look reasonably priced Roger but I wonder if it fits well?? Thanks Kevin Edited February 27, 2022 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 28, 2022 Report Share Posted February 28, 2022 16 hours ago, boxofbits said: As the vent is the original I’m inclined to repair it. The replacement does look reasonably priced Roger but I wonder if it fits well?? Thanks Kevin Theyre OK but you do have to trim the legs on the part that goes down to the spring a little so it closes without catching. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted February 28, 2022 Report Share Posted February 28, 2022 Hi jacking this a bit, who supplies the best rubber seal under the flap these days, many have been too thick? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 28, 2022 Report Share Posted February 28, 2022 1 hour ago, John L said: Hi jacking this a bit, who supplies the best rubber seal under the flap these days, many have been too thick? John They all are, its been discussed many times over the years and the only real solution to get the flap to sit right down is to use a "U" shaped rubber glued round the lip. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted February 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2022 (edited) Think you’re right about the rust trap Stuart! Think another year or so would’ve seen it perforate the cover. Curiously NO evidence of spot welds on the ends, two main spots at the hinge area, but seems to have some sort of filler/sealer between the two ? Kevin PS. Could be evidence of a weld on the end rotted out years ago,in second picture ? Edited February 28, 2022 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 28, 2022 Report Share Posted February 28, 2022 Hi Kev, last year I opened a very old spot welded joint on the TR4 and that also had a layer of what looked like a woven fabric layer. It had holes for the spot welds. Very odd Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted February 28, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2022 (edited) 11 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Kev, last year I opened a very old spot welded joint on the TR4 and that also had a layer of what looked like a woven fabric layer. It had holes for the spot welds. Very odd Roger Hi Roger Yes this looks almost like a skim of green filler, similar to what you describe but not fabric? I’m assuming it’s factory as doubt this has been apart before. I wonder if they used it as an early form of sealer and welded it before it set. Would it allow conductivity though? Kevin Edited February 28, 2022 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 1, 2022 Report Share Posted March 1, 2022 Back then there was a number of different sealants used between spot welded panels and I think your right Roger they just left a gap for the spot weld. When these cars were assembled they certainly didnt use as many spot welds as I do now! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted March 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 Just picking up on this thread again, there is apparently 2 different suppliers of the vent lid assembly, Moss and Bastuk. Anyone have any opinions on the quality of either please? The Bastuk one is around £20 dearer than the Moss component which is fine if the quality is better. Ive also noticed the original wiper arms ( Trico) don’t appear to fit the repro wheelbox splines too well, but the Tex type with the splined segment which tightens with a screw, fits better- not original though! Anyone have an opinion on Tex v original on non- factory wheel boxes please? Regards Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim T Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 Well, I had non-original wheel boxes on the 5 with original Trico arms etc and all was fine. Then somebody nicked one arm and I now have 2 Tex repros fitted without the screws and again all seems fine. I think that Alan Turner recommended LandRover wheel boxes off eBay but would need to check that. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 These are good wheel boxes https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222521442203 The arms with the screw fitting (dont forget the passenger side is a cranked one to clear the vent lid) are good and dont fall off. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted March 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 47 minutes ago, Tim T said: Well, I had non-original wheel boxes on the 5 with original Trico arms etc and all was fine. Then somebody nicked one arm and I now have 2 Tex repros fitted without the screws and again all seems fine. I think that Alan Turner recommended LandRover wheel boxes off eBay but would need to check that. Tim 42 minutes ago, stuart said: These are good wheel boxes https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222521442203 The arms with the screw fitting (dont forget the passenger side is a cranked one to clear the vent lid) are good and dont fall off. Stuart. Thanks Tim and Stuart I do have an original NOS Trico cranked arm for the n/s BUT I wasn’t confident it was latching properly over the splines of the repro box. It does ease over but doesn’t seem to go over and ‘lock’ as it did on the original factory wheel box. I do have the ones you recommended Stuart. So I purchased a Tex arm for the driver’s side with the locking screw and that seems okay. With regard to the new Vent Lid, any appreciable difference does anyone know between the Bastuk and Moss variants? The Bastuk is quite a lot dearer. I have the original lid assembly which could be repaired at a push but is quite rusted. Regards Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 Ive not bought a new lid for quite a while though Ive repaired a few so couldnt really comment. Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted March 27, 2022 Report Share Posted March 27, 2022 (edited) 15 hours ago, boxofbits said: Thanks Tim and Stuart I do have an original NOS Trico cranked arm for the n/s BUT I wasn’t confident it was latching properly over the splines of the repro box. It does ease over but doesn’t seem to go over and ‘lock’ as it did on the original factory wheel box. I do have the ones you recommended Stuart. So I purchased a Tex arm for the driver’s side with the locking screw and that seems okay. With regard to the new Vent Lid, any appreciable difference does anyone know between the Bastuk and Moss variants? The Bastuk is quite a lot dearer. I have the original lid assembly which could be repaired at a push but is quite rusted. Regards Kevin Bastuck seem to have good quality items in general, though no experience of the vent flap personally, but don`t forget to factor in import duties and VAT as we have left the EU. Ralph Edited March 27, 2022 by Ralph Whitaker Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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