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Stuart is quite correct here in his diagnosis. There are so many TR's out there with repro sills fitted and then some "bodyman" just fits the front and rear wings on which of course do not fit properly. As Stuart states the profile of the wing does not mate with the profile of the sill leaving a gap and bulge. It can be sortwed correctly but the man hour cost to do so is large. All depends on how fussy you want to be and how good your bodyman is?

Thats why you see so many cars up for sale with no S/S strips on them and evidently painted black underneath...... its impossible to fit the strips when you have badly fitting front and rear wing to sill gaps.

Alan G

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12 hours ago, cp25616 said:

Stuart is quite correct here in his diagnosis. There are so many TR's out there with repro sills fitted and then some "bodyman" just fits the front and rear wings on which of course do not fit properly. As Stuart states the profile of the wing does not mate with the profile of the sill leaving a gap and bulge. It can be sortwed correctly but the man hour cost to do so is large. All depends on how fussy you want to be and how good your bodyman is?

Thats why you see so many cars up for sale with no S/S strips on them and evidently painted black underneath...... its impossible to fit the strips when you have badly fitting front and rear wing to sill gaps.

Alan G

I absolutely agree with Alan & Stuart here. My car had new sills professionally installed back in 2012.

My outer trim fits beautifully.

6Side.jpg

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Not as much time as I'd hoped on the car this weekend but I've got on quite well with cutting out and patching the few rust holes; not pretty yet but a bit of tidying up and you'll never know they were there...aside from me telling you of course :) Aside from the sill fitment issue the lower part of the car seems to have had any issues addressed previously so the few remaining areas are/were all up high. There'll obviously be some of you that know better than me but I'm actually quite chuffed with the n/s wing tip repair - my first go at a contoured repair piece, came out pretty well to my eye :)

Looking at the front wings, how are they secured at the bottom? I can see all the fixing bolts up top / side and they all loosen but i dont know how the seal to the sill is made. Is it bonded in some way and is there a procedure to remove them without twisting the wing? I don't want to wreck them and end up having to source replacements...I'm assuming once the bolts are loosened off the wing should 'peel' off at the base??

Thanks

 

 

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Edited by SlickV8
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My Wing/sill interface has exactly the issues highlighted.. bad fit and so no sill trim.. It is a real shame, but I got over it..

Tim

20180930_165800.jpg

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1 hour ago, SlickV8 said:

 

Looking at the front wings, how are they secured at the bottom? I can see all the fixing bolts up top / side and they all loosen but i dont know how the seal to the sill is made. Is it bonded in some way and is there a procedure to remove them without twisting the wing? I don't want to wreck them and end up having to source replacements...I'm assuming once the bolts are loosened off the wing should 'peel' off at the base??

Thanks

There are three bolts along the bottom of the wing to the sill. Then three up the forward face of the "A" post accessible from inside the "A" post. One in the top of the door shut then there is the three down the front panel side, the one for the strap to the bonnet hinge and then the ones youve already spotted along the top.

Stuart.

,

Tonys TR6 359.jpg

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I'm thinking I might just be on the verge of getting over it too Tim! :)

Stuart, thanks for your input and pics, this may be getting above my pay grade but IF i decide to take a brave pill and get busy with the cutting disk am i right in thinking I need make 3 cuts as marked below and then push that outer edge back 3 or so mm and reweld? Basically flattening off the curve. Apologies if I'm asking daft questions, Ive no doubt if i was stood next to you in your workshop I'd understand it immediately...1918904855_sill_LI(2).thumb.jpg.abb9bf1ff114488e6dd13ebc9de2b1b4.jpg

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No its literally just the first inch or so forward from the section of the sill that you see when the wings are on and up and down an inch at the forward edge of the step in. When youve got the wing off it will be obvious see this picture (marked on the left hand one )

Stuart.

 

Tonys TR6 135.jpg

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Wow, OK, its got to be worth a go; brave pills ordered!

Thanks again

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Looking good Nick, not any easy shape to do at the rear wing. You'll have no issues sorting out the sill. Looking forward to seeing what you get with that front wing off.

Gareth

 

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Brave pills kicked in yesterday afternoon so I went straight to my Unit from work and had a go....turns out the [n/s] wing had been tack welded onto the sill in 3 places along the seam. Theres no spire nuts in the sill so presumably whomever did the work couldn't screw them into place. The sill actually looks pretty good, its definitely a replacement part [has a label on it] and the lower edge is now holed but i think its a simple enough job to weld in a thin strip of steel. Likewise i think I'll need repair a thin strip along the bottom edge of the wing to make it really solid again.

Weirdly though, as soon as I removed the tack welds the wing sat perfectly on/against the sill! I'm guessing fitting these is a matter of trial and error? From a quick play before I headed home I think I'd be fitting the base of the wing first and then working upwards to get it into final position. I'm hoping to get back toi the car tonight to have a go at the off side and then maybe a go at the two rears while I'm feeling confident :)

Any suggestions on what i can use to screw the wing back onto the sill? I need get some sort of fitting on it to take the screws, a riv nuts spring to mind but they dont allow for any adjustment?

quick pics taken before i left... 

sill1.jpg

sill2.jpg

sill 3.jpg

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There should be three holes in the lower part of the sill that have a slot and a hole, these are for the spire clips to sit into and then you have three what are effectively "Acme" type screws that hold the bottom of the wing on. see below pictures, the wing should have three corresponding holes that are oval depressed to suit.

Stuart.

 

Tonys TR6 102 - Copy.jpg

Tonys TR6 493 - Copy.jpg

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1 hour ago, Mk2 Chopper said:

Good news that it was just a bodge that caused the wing to sit out over the sill. 

 

yep, ive not tried to refit beyond hanging it and holding in position but it seems to me that 5 mins fitting appropriate clips would have saved 10 minutes sparking up a welder and resulted in a far better fit !? Nowt so queer as folk :)

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3 hours ago, stuart said:

There should be three holes in the lower part of the sill that have a slot and a hole, these are for the spire clips to sit into and then you have three what are effectively "Acme" type screws that hold the bottom of the wing on. see below pictures, the wing should have three corresponding holes that are oval depressed to suit.

Stuart.

 

Tonys TR6 102 - Copy.jpg

Tonys TR6 493 - Copy.jpg

priceless pics again Stuart, thankyou....Of course if you really cared you'd have those nice new wings parcelled up and on a carrier to me as we speak  :D:D

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No problem, Ive replied on your post Roy 

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I've owned my 69 Pi 6 for 49 years. So just a few none bodywork mechanical things to look out for...The Engines weak link is its pair of Crank Thrust Washers...Use a screw driver behind the crank pulley to check for wear. The two washers are easy to replace, use the Bronze ones in place of the soft white metal ones. Other wise the engine is a good unit. The Lucas Pi system was originally developed to run on 5 Star Leaded 101 octane. Since the introduction of Unleaded fuel I've never found the need to convert my cylinder head as it never Pinks running on top grade fuel like Shells 97 Ron 'V Power + Nitro' which is still only E5 (Thank you Shell). The injection system works perfectly if well maintained. The TR Shop in Chiswick London do a postal exchange service for the injectors. But replacing the Rubber seals is the first quick fix, as the system is all about maintaining the psi. Some owners replace the original Lucas fuel pump with a Bosch, but the Lucas pump is just as good, and can be serviced as can the the Metering Unit and PR valve by a postal service to a very good man on this forum called Neil Ferguson.  

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1 hour ago, CP26309 said:

I've owned my 69 Pi 6 for 49 years. So just a few none bodywork mechanical things to look out for...The Engines weak link is its pair of Crank Thrust Washers...Use a screw driver behind the crank pulley to check for wear. The two washers are easy to replace, use the Bronze ones in place of the soft white metal ones. Other wise the engine is a good unit. The Lucas Pi system was originally developed to run on 5 Star Leaded 101 octane. Since the introduction of Unleaded fuel I've never found the need to convert my cylinder head as it never Pinks running on top grade fuel like Shells 97 Ron 'V Power + Nitro' which is still only E5 (Thank you Shell). The injection system works perfectly if well maintained. The TR Shop in Chiswick London do a postal exchange service for the injectors. But replacing the Rubber seals is the first quick fix, as the system is all about maintaining the psi. Some owners replace the original Lucas fuel pump with a Bosch, but the Lucas pump is just as good, and can be serviced as can the the Metering Unit and PR valve by a postal service to a very good man on this forum called Neil Ferguson.  

Useful thank you. I’m flat out on bodywork at the minute so I can get it painted but I’ll be getting at the mechanicals in short order I hope :)

 

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I'm going to ask this purely because I'm intrigued....fibreglass wings, any experience / comments? If[?] they fit ok it seems a reasonable way to permanently rust proof each corner?? Shall I get my coat?

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49 minutes ago, SlickV8 said:

I'm going to ask this purely because I'm intrigued....fibreglass wings, any experience / comments? If[?] they fit ok it seems a reasonable way to permanently rust proof each corner?? Shall I get my coat?

Your choice but two points to mention.

1. Fitment devalues the car seriously

2. They usually need a fair bit of work to make them look good and not obvious.

Stuart.

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