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Steering rack very close to fan hub extension


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Everything is back together. Had a bit of an issue with the starter motor not cranking quick enough. Spotted a forum post advising to fit and earth lead from the battery terminal to the block. I attached it from the where the battery lead attaches to the bulkhead to the stud on the fuel pump. Worked a dream. Turns over twice as fast now. It’s a neat fitting. Would you envisage any problems with where I have attached it to the block? 

Set the points, and did a basic set up on the two carbs. Started after a couple of revolutions of the starter motor (as its always done) and it then ran up to temperature. Fixed a couple of minor coolant leaks and thought my day was done. It wasn’t. After a couple of minutes the carb nearest to the bulkhead overflows with fuel and I have to switch off. Dave Davies rebuilt my AC pump. I have just had a chat with him about possible over pressure, but it doesn’t sound likely. Checked that the pump arm is on the right side of the cam, which it is. Pulled the carb apart and checked the float height was correct (I had fitted new floats previously), which it was. I put new parts in both carbs apart from the needle valves. I took the valve out and it worked, but there was a bit of wear on the plunger. I’m going to order two new ones from Burlen on Monday, just in case. Does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? It runs so well for the first few minutes, I’m guessing it can’t be much. 
 

Gary

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Lee.
 

Just check the clearance on the fan extension. I believe you can lift the engine enough to get the new mounts in place, if you do one at a time. Don’t be surprised if you need a couple of shims. I slotted the ones I bought to make it easier to adjust without having to lift the engine above the top of the stud on the mount. Suggest you measure your old ones up and assess the clearance before you put your new ones in place. With a bit of luck you may get the right result first time with some decent measurements. 1mm shim on both mounts roughly equates to 1mm extra gap at the fan extension. That’s what I found.
 

Gary

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That’s what I’m hoping, Roger. Silly really, I should have just fitted new ones from the beginning. All new pipes as well, so easy for a bit of muck to have got in. I have never fitted a separate fuel filter. Only because I don’t like the look. I think I will have to fit one now. I’m still on the original fuel tank. It’s very good, but the odd bit of crud could make it’s way into the system. Filter makes sense. 
 

Gary

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Is the float brass  or plastic.

Either type could have a hole in it and be sinking rather than ‘floating’

Give the float a shake and listen to hear if there is any fuel in it.   If so repair or replace.

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They are plastic. Both new from Burlen a few weeks ago. I did the shake, just in case. It seemed fine. However, if the new needle valve doesn’t cure the problem I will take it out and soak it in petrol. I still have the old ones as well. Might even swap it out tomorrow whilst I am waiting for other bits to arrive. 
 

Gary

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Checked the new floats. They are the Stay Up type and work perfectly. It has to be the needle valve or the fuel pressure, but I would have expected both carbs to leak if it was a pressure issue, which they don’t. Needle valves on order with Burlen. Gone for the original type. 
 

Gary

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

While browsing my copy of TRAction for May/June 2022, I recognized Tr4aJim's photo posted Feb 16 of the engine fan extension worn nearly through as originating from my website: www.macysgarage.com.  The photo and the story of how this happened is located on my Blog page from the 4th Quarter of 2019.  Surprisingly, the steering rack tube was unharmed, the steel tube being much harder than the soft cast iron hub extension.  Mark Macy, Macy's Garage, Ltd.  Tipp City, Ohio, USA.

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