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TR3A Steering Rack Conversion - Pitfalls?


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The steering on my 1958 TR3a is heavy and I am looking at a steering rack conversion to change to rack and pinion

Having looked into these kits and what they involve it’s not as straightforward as you might imagine (what a surprise)

The Moss parts manual makes a distinction between split/short column TRs. And the early TR2 and TR3 of the long column type, for which an upper column is also required, as well as the steering rack conversion kit.

So what I would like to know is how do I find out if mine is a long column type?

The manual says that the steering rack conversion for split/short column cars can easily be installed by competent DIY enthusiast.  Does the same apply to long column cars which require the upper column kit as well and possibly a horn/indicator conversion kit installation?

Does anyone have experience of these kits and steering rack conversion?

Jeremy Charlton

 

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Hello Jeremy, and welcome to our forum.

I have altered the title of your request, to hopefully gain you more response, and also to aid fellow enthusiasts

doing searches on the topic in the future.

Hope this is Alright.

As regards your actual request, how heavy is the steering on your car, is the box worn? what tyres and tyre pressures do you run?

In my experience a sorted steering box, is very close to a steering rack conversion, and as you say lots to think about with that.

Then of course there is always altering the originality, for me I would sort what you have, if you are determined to change you will have everything here you need to know in double quick time.

John,

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  • John Morrison changed the title to TR3A Steering Rack Conversion - Pitfalls?

If you look at your column under the bonnet if its a split column then you will see a joint part way down under the carbs (R/hand steer) which is a gap in the outer tubes and a connector with two bolts through it. Depending on the kit you go for you may have to also fit a Kenlowe type fan as well due to fouling issues. It is possible though expensive to retain the indicator horn push as well.

Stuart.

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And ask the supplier whether the turning circle (which is already large on a TR2/3) would be increased were you to fit his conversion kit.

You could also enquire about effects on bump steering.

Ian Cornish

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As John has suggested, there are many possible causes of heavy steering and it is easy to misunderstand the true cause(s). I have had r&p for many years and I love it. That said, none of the road testers of yesteryear made any complaints against how well these cars steered and many present drivers love the original design. If you have not already done so, I hope you will study the workshop manual and appreciate the numerous cautions it provides regarding its care and reassembly. It was not until I finally investigated my idler unit that neither I nor previous owners had ever greased it properly. The fault was not with the original design.

James

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I have a rack conversion on my 3a, using a modified TR7 rack.  I did the conversion while restoring the car and had good access, if I had to do it on a running car it would be quite involved and would most likely need the front headlamp panel and radiator removing for a start. I believe those using a Mini steering rack can be fitted with the original cooling fan, but others (including mine) require removing the fan and fitting an electric item. Then there is the indicator and horn unit to consider, which can be made to work using a slip ring unit which are quite expensive, and even then the head unit is no longer "fixed", but will turn with the steering wheel. Easier to fit a seperate indicator and horn button.

So a lot to think about and not an easy conversion.

As others have said, I would thoroughly investigate your current steering set up, especially the state of the idler assembly and the bottom trunnions.

Ralph

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I have the original steering on both my TR2s. Others drive them and say they wouldn't swap to r&p if they can get their steering as good as mine.

Owners often praise their change to r&p but when asked what they are comparing it to it is invariably their worn out poorly maintained steering box. Yes r&p can improve the steering in some areas, but it is not necessary to fit r&p to achieve excellent steering. And you would lose your original steering wheel horn and indicators which, to me, are very much part of the cars character.

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My steering box was spot on, the link bar had bronze bushes and I had Revington steering arms fitted. 
I converted to r&p to reduce the steering  effort, eliminate bump steer and improve the feedback through the wheel. All in all it was the best modification I’ve made to the car. Having said that, most if not all of the bolt on kits actually make bump steer worse, increase the already poor turning circle and mount in a less rigid manner making the feel a bit wooly. 
If all you are interested in is reducing the steering effort then I guess that a bolt on kit may do the job but if you looking to improve the handling you will need to opt for a kit with welded brackets. 

Edited by Drewmotty
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No loss of steering lock with the TR7 rack I have, couldn`t make it turn any more without tyres hitting the body and although I have never driven a steering box TR so cannot compare, I am not troubled unduly by bump steer. I find the rear end hopping about on bends more of a concern.

I find the rack to be ultra direct with no "play" at the steering wheel, and one finger control when driving, slightly heavy when stationary but then I am running 185 radials so to be expected.

Ralph

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