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TR4 Water in the Sump


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I have  owned  my TR4 for quite  a while  and  stopped  using it because  water kept  escaping into the sump, from the time I bought it I think. I  thought it  might be  the headgasket so replaced it.... I  Don't  think  that's made any difference .  It had had an engine  rebuild  before  I bought it... oil pressure and  compression  is  good. I have read that it could be seals on the  piston liners. I  am guessing this is  a horrendous  job.... would  my guess be correct? Any advice  welcome.

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Not horrendous, but will need the head off, sump off and rods and pistons out prior to removing the liners. The problem is keeping the crank clean when cleaning out the block. It’s probably easier to pull the engine and rebuild it on the bench taking the opportunity to inspect everything and upgrade as you go. 

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Yes if any of the "figure of 8" seals fail then water will go straight into the sump. to fix could be as simple as removing head, pistons, & liners, cleaning up, then re-sealing the seals (usually copper or steel) using wellseal or similar. then re-assebling.  However it may require the block to be machined to solve the problem which make the job much bigger (& more expensive)

Bob

 

Edited by Lebro
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Hi Healey,

 welcome to the forum.  Where about's are you

How mechanically minded are. You say the head was removed - Did you do that. If so did it all go back together easily.

To replace the Figure of Eight (Fo8) is actually a big job - as things will develop as you progress.

As mentioned above removal of the engine and doing it on the bench is the sensible way to go.

The biggest problem is getting the  liner heights spot on. The tolerance is 0.003 to 0.005".

Each liner needs to be even around its circumference and each liner needs to be the same as each other.

Cleanliness and accuracy are top of the bill.

If you go this route come back for more help.

 

Roger

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If you do go for an in car strip down as Drewmotty says trying to keep the bottom end clean when stripping (especially if liners removed to reseal) can be arduous. However after removing pistons and conrods you can wrap the crank and surrounding area in clingfilm which works surprisingly well, allowing liners to be drawn out and not bother about dirt and grit falling onto the sensitive bits below.

Mick Richards 

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Many thanks folks. I am not sure about doing this having read the responses. I am pretty good with mechanics but i have never replaced liners. 

I am thinking about committing sacrilege and fitting an mgb engine and box. Does anyone know if this has been done?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Healey said:

Many thanks folks. I am not sure about doing this having read the responses. I am pretty good with mechanics but i have never replaced liners. 

I am thinking about committing sacrilege and fitting an mgb engine and box. Does anyone know if this has been done?

 

 

Which MGB engine?

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Hi there.

Is Healey a first name or second? let us have a Christian name if you like, we are all a friendly crowd.

As regards your issue, I have ammended the title of the thread, to better focus replies, and to aid others in the future doing

searches on the same subjest, hope that is OK?

I'm wondering whereabouts you are, because mythinking is that you want the car sorting and being used this spring/summer, and for me the next step would be to find your local, TR Register,  group, we can tell you who and where,  Get along there and ask for info.

If you are not pulling the engine itself, they will be able to recommend professionals, perhaps within a reasonable distance to go too, or indeed perhaps not to go too! There will be helping hands if you do the work yourself, maybe someone will have a crane to lend etc.

Get back to us, there are lots of folk done this, sometimes more than once, and whichever road you take, your questions and concerns will be answered here.

Cheers,

John.

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Hi,

on my TR4A it was the "Figure of 8" - seal of the 4th cylinder.

With the sump pan bolted off, I took a look from below and found coolant trops on the 4 conrod.

I changed the seals with the engine in position, using extra sealant lifted the liners too much,

so I had to clean everything and buy a second pair of Fo8.

Ciao, Marco

 

Edited by Z320
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Why change engine make ?

I am sure with the help of a local group you can change the liner fig 8 IF that really is the problem. 
 

or get another engine. There is one on eBay at £1600

Triumph Recodintioned Tr4a engine

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Recodintioned-Tr4a-engine-/175144447604?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
 

that has to be worth a think about. ( no connection to seller)

I have last years engine sat in the garage doing nothing with most ancillaries carbs/ dizzy etc

this is do-able with help so don’t give up. 

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Thanks  for all the replies. The  reason I was thinking  about  installing an mgb engine  is that I happen to have  a good one with an overdrive  gearbox. My son bought  it for an mga and  it was never fitted.  Looking at the price of the seals makes the whole process  doubly frustrating .... a few quid yet hours of work.  I can  only imagine  the guy I bought it  from.... many years ago  didn't  fit them properly.  The car has always been a  disappointment... because of water loss. I just  stopped  using it. I'll have to  consider my options. I  will get a workshop  manual!

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Hi Healey,

 where about's are you.

If in the UK there will many folk near you able to give information/help etc.

Do consider your options carefully.  The engine and gearbox come out fairly easy if you have a hoist etc. and make it a joy to work on.

It sounds like your GB does not have an Overdrive - that is a shame but OD can be fitted. It will cost £££ but seriously worth it.

The smaller MGB engine will not give adequate SPH  (Smiles per Hour)

 

Roger

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Roger, I get the impression you're wedded to the TR engine ! I've owned both TR's and MGs, far more of the latter. In fairness, I bought this TR4A because I love the shape of it and, for the time I used it enjoyed it ...not quite as much as when I was 19 yrs old, when I had my first - a blue 1962 PFA842 - still on the road according to the DVLA. I had previously owned a a TR3 as an 18year old and with 2 mates drove it to the south of France....... and back! in 1972. (you can do the sums) . I would say the TR is much more like the MGA than the MGB in terms of the way it handles.... agricultural is a term I often use whereas a B is much more like a modern. I managed to break the crankshaft in my original TR4, but in those days the scrapyards were full of old standard vanguards from which to salvage the engine/crankshaft. I did manage a rebuild on that but I didn't have to touch the liners! I think I will do a few more checks on the engine in my current car ... I might ask for some advice in due course. Cheers ..... Rob  

 

 

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