julie09 Posted February 7, 2022 Report Share Posted February 7, 2022 So far the help given has beeb very useful. Got the liner fitted by glueing over a 1.5 mm layer of butyl to help with insulation. Now trying to understand how to fit the rear window seal. Do I fit the seal to the hardtop first if so is it best to glue or do l put the seal around the window and then fit the window with the seal to the hard top. Also the tool that Woolies sell to fit the insert for £35 plus p&p and VAT does any one have one I could borrow , will pay postage and return with a beer token as rental payment. any help most welcome ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobTR3 Posted February 7, 2022 Report Share Posted February 7, 2022 Ian I fitted the seal to the hardtop first and then fitted the glass, I did not use glue or even a sealant. It is essential to have the glass/perspex the right size. If it's slightly too big in places it will compress the seal and close the insert gap making it difficult to fit the filler seal. If too small in places you will not get the seal over the glass sufficiently to form a grip/seal. However, all being well the insert seal really does tighten up the main seal to the glass and frame. As for the insert seal tool, I have one you can buy off me for £15 to include postage. It is complete, bought it from Phoenix. However, unless you have a perfect insert gap in the main seal after fitting the glass it won't work where the gap is too narrow and you will have to manually press the insert into the gap. Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted February 7, 2022 Report Share Posted February 7, 2022 when i fitted mine it worked out easier to fit the seal to the roof then the perspex to the seal i also put the seal join at the bottom ( glued together the ends) and the seal filler insert at the top ( either way just don't have the joins in the same place. this way meant it was easier to fit the seal to the roof and not mess up where i have overlapped the head lining into the aperture. i also went round the seal to roof and the perspex to seal join with a sealer (narrow nozzle as it doesn't need much) as i was more concerned with it blowing out at speed if no sidecreens were used. seems to work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted February 7, 2022 Report Share Posted February 7, 2022 1 hour ago, julie09 said: So far the help given has beeb very useful. Got the liner fitted by glueing over a 1.5 mm layer of butyl to help with insulation. Now trying to understand how to fit the rear window seal. Do I fit the seal to the hardtop first if so is it best to glue or do l put the seal around the window and then fit the window with the seal to the hard top. Also the tool that Woolies sell to fit the insert for £35 plus p&p and VAT does any one have one I could borrow , will pay postage and return with a beer token as rental payment. any help most welcome ian Ian, you can borrow mine. its the phoenix one. I fitted the seal to the HT then used the tool to introduce the lower edge into the slot and worked around the Perspex gently from bottom to top. once happy with position i fitted the locking strip using the tool and builders pipe lube to make easy. The secret then is not too cut off the excess seal or locking strip......it will shrink.....alot Send a pm and i'll post to you. I used the Phoenix seal, it provides a much better/secure fit. This thread is useful Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NCS_TR3A Posted February 7, 2022 Report Share Posted February 7, 2022 As it seems to be with everyone else, I fitted to the hardtop and then added the perspex to it. I think I did use sealent around the perspex just before adding the locking strip. If you get a leak it's usually were the screen joins the rubber and not where the rubber joins the bodywork in my experience. Use lots of soapy water when fitting the locking strip and follow Hamish's advice in ensuring the join for the rubber is at the bottom and the join for the filler is at the top. I guess you could do it the other way around but I was always told to do this. I found it easier to do with the hard top on the car. You want everything to be a tight fit so it doesn't blow out whilst driving. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikej Posted February 8, 2022 Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 The window and seal can move about when fitting/removing the top so I'd not be inclined to stick it. Let it settle and fit it when on the car. I used Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure (no, really it does exist!) To seal the bottom to the window and the U trim around the bottom to stop water bring absorbed by the head lining. Good for front screen to, amazing stuff. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 8, 2022 Report Share Posted February 8, 2022 1 hour ago, mikej said: The window and seal can move about when fitting/removing the top so I'd not be inclined to stick it. Let it settle and fit it when on the car. I used Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure (no, really it does exist!) To seal the bottom to the window and the U trim around the bottom to stop water bring absorbed by the head lining. Good for front screen to, amazing stuff. https://captaintolley.com/ good stuff Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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