Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This weekend I fitted a new choke Cable bought from Moss. The old one would only pull out to about the second notch visible and wouldn't extend fully. I believe this was causing poor cold starting as the carb. jets were not being pulled down enough.

Anyway, the new cable extends fully, 3 or 4 notches showing and the jets noticeably further extended, although it does require at times a two handed effort to pull the knob out fully. However, the cable will not lock in the extended position. I can turn the knob to the right, push the cable back, turn the knob back to level and it will lock at half way out. It seems to be a faulty cable. Before I ring Moss tomorrow for a refund has anyone recent experience of buying a choke Cable from Moss or any other supplier that works! I suspect the main retail suppliers are buying from the same source, but I notice Rimmers offer another cheaper cable as well as the OEM.

Rob

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rob,

somebody posted the same query just a couple of weeks ago.

I think you will find that the little 1/2 moon lock plate is missing from inside the body where the shark teeth grooves are.

Easy enough to make a new plate, but!!!!

I'll try and find the other post.

Roger

Edited by RogerH
Link to post
Share on other sites

Could be deliberate. You normally only need full choke to start the engine, leaving it there for more than a few seconds & the engine will start to splutter through being over rich. so it's usual to push the choke to about half way in. Your new cable seems to do that for you when you let go.  Just a thought !

Bob.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Bob,

 that would be good if it were true.

The brass increment pushy thing has a number of teeth cut into it. If it only need half choke for ALL, ALL the time then they

would save money and cut only one tooth.  They would not supply the spring steel clip that retainers the  1/2 moon plate.

It is incompetence governed by no QC.

I can make them - why can't the big boys.

 

Roger

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger, thanks for your reply and the previous posts on this topic.

An update!

Took the new cable out and extracted the inner cable, the half moon is there and as mentioned will hold on half way out. I think what is happening is the return springs on the jet lever linkage when fully extended are too strong for the cable half moon to hold the pull lever in place, it just pulls past the notch, as the springs retract there is less tension and the half moon can cope. As such, I've cleaned and oiled the "old" cable which now operates no worse than the new one and re-installed it. The Moss new one is going back. Still got the problem of not holding on full extension, but short of a different make cable I can wedge it open whilst I start the car. Tried the cloths peg suggestion, but her in doors is not buying strong enough pegs because that doesn't work.

Rob

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Rob,

I've just received this from a TR3 owning friend

 

This is what I recommend he does to rectify the problem ~ it worked for me.

Attach the inner cable to the 'trunnion' and secure cable to trunnion. (see photo).

remove trunnion and cable from the choke lever and, wind the trunnion and cable about three turns 

in a clockwise direction and refit the choke cable and trunnion to the choke lever and secure with a split pin.

The choke control should now be easier to operate and will automatically spring to the 'locked' position.

I am able to operate my choke easily with one hand.

Hope this helps.  Could you possibly send this information to Rob TR3 please.

Best regards ~

Tom.

CHOKEa.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

You won’t put a twist in mine as it’s a rigid wire.
It’s from some other Standard Triumph of the era that had precisely the right chrome outer cable end bit to go in the dash and inner wire hexagon end to accept the TR knob.   

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

It’s from some other Standard Triumph of the era

Interesting Peter,  because mine is the same. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, RobH said:

Interesting Peter,  because mine is the same. 

You probably got a new choke cable from me at Cox & Buckles in the 1980’s when I was selling them to Sidescreen car owners.

I had to test the first one on my own car.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The previous batch of prototype cranks from StanPro in India are also still out there on test.  I am in contact with only one TR3 owner with a crank still ‘on test’.   The crank was for the Standard 2000 engine.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
20 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

The previous batch of prototype cranks from StanPro in India are also still out there on test.  I am in contact with only one TR3 owner with a crank still ‘on test’.   The crank was for the Standard 2000 engine.

 

When does that prototype date back to.??

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/6/2022 at 2:04 PM, RobTR3 said:

 

“I think what is happening is the return springs on the jet lever linkage when fully extended are too strong “

Rob

I had a similar problem on a Cooper S which has two return springs on the throttle cable, one hooked on the air filter housing. Firstly it doesn’t need two, but I found the reproduction return springs were considerably stronger than the originals even with just a single spring. After fitting an original spring the throttle felt light again. Have you replaced the return spring?

Also, might be worth pulling up on the cable directly at the carburettor end to gauge effort required as the jets and linkage might be tight?
 

Is the cable free when pulling it out with no load?

Kevin

Link to post
Share on other sites

kev 

I renewed both springs some time ago as the ones on the car were not a match. I bought them from Moss. Whether they are too strong, I don't know. I have put the replaced springs back just to see if there was a difference, but the result is the same. I don't think the choke mechanism is up to the job, it's not strong enough to counter act the spring strength. 

John 

Thanks for forwarding a suggested remedy from Tom, your friend. I did try his method, but to no avail. I think I understood it correctly.

I've been looking at a universal choke Cable, pull and twist to lock. Might be worth trying at £9 incl. postage.

Rob

 

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had years of trouble with the choke cable. I have an answer

  1. Move the knob to the dash near the speedo
  2. Make the inner cable  short so that it runs entirely flat, with no bends at all.
  3. The outer cable is not useful and is not attached at the carb end to any bracket including the pressed steel clamp
  4. Connect ONLY the inner to the front choke lever. Do not use any other part of the carb brackets 
  5. The rear carb choke is not connected
  6. The cable moves very smoothly with some light oil
  7. The car starts well once a week.
  8. Check the tool box for a ST wooden clothes peg

Good luck with your experiments

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, RobTR3 said:

kev 

I renewed both springs some time ago as the ones on the car were not a match. I bought them from Moss. Whether they are too strong, I don't know. I have put the replaced springs back just to see if there was a difference, but the result is the same. I don't think the choke mechanism is up to the job, it's not strong enough to counter act the spring strength. 

Rob

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Rob

Just a thought. I felt the mini ones would’ve snapped the throttle cable eventually, it was that much heavier. They were the right part number but not from Moss. Definitely didn’t have the softer progression of the original. 
 

Kevin

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/6/2022 at 3:19 PM, RogerH said:

Hi Rob,

I've just received this from a TR3 owning friend

 

This is what I recommend he does to rectify the problem ~ it worked for me.

Attach the inner cable to the 'trunnion' and secure cable to trunnion. (see photo).

remove trunnion and cable from the choke lever and, wind the trunnion and cable about three turns 

in a clockwise direction and refit the choke cable and trunnion to the choke lever and secure with a split pin.

The choke control should now be easier to operate and will automatically spring to the 'locked' position.

I am able to operate my choke easily with one hand.

Hope this helps.  Could you possibly send this information to Rob TR3 please.

Best regards ~

Tom.

CHOKEa.jpg

I would also agree with this. It makes it all a lot easier, although I did remake the half moon and also filed the teeth in the pull out shaft to give it more to hold onto. What ammuses me about this is that your method to twist the wire is straight forward, I'm sure I'd did something that was far harder (like trying to pull the whole shaft out and twisting it whilst holding the other end .... I think I missed the obvious and the simplest solution. A little embarrassing. I'll know for next time :)

Neil

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.