julie09 Posted January 27, 2022 Report Share Posted January 27, 2022 After a few year of prevarication I have started to assemble my restored metal hard top. Two questions, 1 what glue to use that will stick rubber to the paint and 2 what material should the lining be made from and how is it fitted. A photo of the finished article would be most appreciated. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 27, 2022 Report Share Posted January 27, 2022 18 minutes ago, julie09 said: After a few year of prevarication I have started to assemble my restored metal hard top. Two questions, 1 what glue to use that will stick rubber to the paint and 2 what material should the lining be made from and how is it fitted. A photo of the finished article would be most appreciated. Ian Ian i did mine couple years ago But it’s not original or standard with having head lining rods so I’ll let others comment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 27, 2022 Report Share Posted January 27, 2022 (edited) Hi Ian Union wool cloth https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/95/wool adhesive needs to be heat resistant, I used this. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1263/heat-resistant-adhesive Here are two photos of mine, showing the material and the anti resonance spring steel strip. Ignore the two old duffers( myself and brother-in-law) we were concentrating on not meeting our maker climbing the Gavia Pass at the time. Iain Edited January 27, 2022 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 27, 2022 Report Share Posted January 27, 2022 Last one I did we didnt have the bar so the lining was stuck direct and then finished right out to the door seals, plus I fitted an interior light. Again union cloth but with a foam backing and I used that same Alpha glue as its the best. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
james christie Posted January 27, 2022 Report Share Posted January 27, 2022 (edited) There was a good thread on this subject a year or so ago - do a search using ‘headlining’ james Edited January 27, 2022 by james christie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Glynn Hobbs Posted January 27, 2022 Report Share Posted January 27, 2022 (edited) Please wait while image is uploading... Edited January 27, 2022 by Glynn Hobbs Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alanretired Posted January 27, 2022 Report Share Posted January 27, 2022 I painted the inside of my hard top with Bonda rust primer followed by three coats of stone chip paint. Luckily, due to my poor spraying technique, the result was a textured rather than a rounded orange peel finish. This was followed by three coats of two pack cream primer. The finish is very robust, light and airy, and more importantly the roof does not drum. I appreciate that my solution will not win any points in a Concours Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 28, 2022 Report Share Posted January 28, 2022 That looks very smart, Alan. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mikej Posted January 28, 2022 Report Share Posted January 28, 2022 A previous Forum post of mine liberated much help on recovering the hard top and how to identify MK1 from MK2s etc. Glue used is AF178 and Union covering - both from Woollies who were most helpful. Don’t use ordinary contact adhesive – spreading it with a bank card worked well – a foot or so at a time. New anti-drum spring works reasonably well, I have supplier detail somewhere if needed. Made paper templates first. MikeJ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PhilipB Posted February 3, 2022 Report Share Posted February 3, 2022 As my hard top is gloss black, I was worried that it would get too hot on the TR Pyrenees rally To counter that I used Dynamat Superlite as a first layer to provide sound proofing Dynaliner 1/8" as thermal insulation Both these are self adhesive but make sure the inside of the hard top is scrupulously clean first Followed by Union cloth applied with Trim-Fix High Temperature contact spray adhesive No photos at the moment but looks very much like Iain's To apply the cloth I cut it oversize then masked and glued 10 cm front to back down the centre of the roof to anchor the cloth in place. I then worked out to the sides by masking and gluing in 20cm strips. That way I could control the application of the cloth to make sure it conformed to the concave surface and didn't have to struggle with one big sticky sheet of fabric. I didn't bother with the spring hoop but I am very pleased with the result. The temperature difference between the outside and inside travelling across the hot Spanish plains was very impressive, too hot to put your hand on outside but just warm on the inside. It made for comfortable driving and now the cab is much quieter with roof on. Cheers Phil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.