Rebuild Sequence

[John Morrison]

Group member has now goy his painted tub back and is starting the long road to reassembly.

Now it is 20 years ago that this car was dissasembled sothere are no photos/notes etc.

 

Can someone gives us a sequence so we do not make too many mistakes, please?

John.

[barkerwilliams]

1)    Open a bank account the wife knows nothing about.

2)    arrange large overdraft facilities on the account.

...........

Alan

[Tim D.]

Start with the heater and wiper wheel boxes. The rest of the car is built around these

[John Morrison]

Well Tim,

I'm glad I asked because I would never have thought of these first.

John.

[kcsun]

14 hours ago, barkerwilliams said:

1)    Open a bank account the wife knows nothing about.

2)    arrange large overdraft facilities on the account.

...........

Alan

Excellent, just choked on my cornflakes

kc

[stuart]

Wiper rack and wheel boxes then loom then heater box and the two pipes to the adaptor plate on the bulkhead and add the plate, after that it doesnt matter so much.

Stuart.

 

 

Edited January 25, 2022 by stuart

[250]

     Hi John after the tub and all panels etc are fitted and  lined up this is what I did, not my list something I was sent by an American friend I have a 250 but its all  relative.

         Bonnet release cable

·        Pedal box

·         Wheel boxes and wiper tubing

·         Washer tubing

·         Dash pad

·         Demisters

·         Windshield frame with new vinyl installed. Would be best if doors and windows are already installed to aid in adjusting windshield rake

·         Windshield installed in frame

·         Wiring harness

·         Check operation of wipers. Can be done with jumpers if necessary

·         Wheel box cover plates

·         Install and adjust cable to heater door lever, leave it hanging

·         Heater and hoses along with right side air vents hose (before glove box, especially if cardboard glove box)

·         Connect demister hoses to demisters and heater

·         Pass oil pressure line, Tach and Speedo cables, choke cables and heat valve cable through bulkhead

·         Metal dash with lower steering column clamp, crash pads, glove box with switch and bulb installed, heater switch and ignition switch if TR250 or 69 model

·         Connect choke cables and heat valve cable and cable to heater door lever

·         If early model, connect and adjust scuttle vent lid rod

·         Steering column “H” bar, Stiffening rod and support rod for TR250 and 69 model

·         Place steering column lock with padded cover installed, N/A for TR250 and 69 model

·         Steering column with switches installed

·         Feed switch wires under column

·         Attach steering column lock to column, N/A for TR250 and 69 model

·         Connect inner shaft to lower shaft while adjusting column position, turn signal cam position, and steering wheel hub position

·         Clamp steering column, don’t forget the heater ground wire in Fwd clamp inner bolt

·         Connect glove box light bullet/sleeve

·         Install air vents and hoses; don’t connect driver’s side hose to heater just yet

·         Place cut toilet paper tube over steering column

·         Put wooden dash in place with small gauges installed and connect gauges

·         Screw down dash, shim around glove box door as needed for flush fit, connect check strap

·         Connect dash switches and warning lights. On early models, wires can be fed through holes, connected and then switches pushed in. Not sure about later models, maybe switches  should be installed before dash is fitted

·         Install Speedo then Tach

·         Clamp and connect driver’s air vent hose previously left unclamped

 

Mark.

[boxofbits]

3 hours ago, 250 said:

     Hi John after the tub and all panels etc are fitted and  lined up this is what I did, not my list something I was sent by an American friend I have a 250 but its all  relative.

         Bonnet release cable

·        Pedal box

·         Wheel boxes and wiper tubing

·         Washer tubing

·         Dash pad

·         Demisters

·         Windshield frame with new vinyl installed. Would be best if doors and windows are already installed to aid in adjusting windshield rake

·         Windshield installed in frame

·         Wiring harness

·         Check operation of wipers. Can be done with jumpers if necessary

·         Wheel box cover plates

·         Install and adjust cable to heater door lever, leave it hanging

·         Heater and hoses along with right side air vents hose (before glove box, especially if cardboard glove box)

·         Connect demister hoses to demisters and heater

·         Pass oil pressure line, Tach and Speedo cables, choke cables and heat valve cable through bulkhead

·         Metal dash with lower steering column clamp, crash pads, glove box with switch and bulb installed, heater switch and ignition switch if TR250 or 69 model

·         Connect choke cables and heat valve cable and cable to heater door lever

·         If early model, connect and adjust scuttle vent lid rod

·         Steering column “H” bar, Stiffening rod and support rod for TR250 and 69 model

·         Place steering column lock with padded cover installed, N/A for TR250 and 69 model

·         Steering column with switches installed

·         Feed switch wires under column

·         Attach steering column lock to column, N/A for TR250 and 69 model

·         Connect inner shaft to lower shaft while adjusting column position, turn signal cam position, and steering wheel hub position

·         Clamp steering column, don’t forget the heater ground wire in Fwd clamp inner bolt

·         Connect glove box light bullet/sleeve

·         Install air vents and hoses; don’t connect driver’s side hose to heater just yet

·         Place cut toilet paper tube over steering column

·         Put wooden dash in place with small gauges installed and connect gauges

·         Screw down dash, shim around glove box door as needed for flush fit, connect check strap

·         Connect dash switches and warning lights. On early models, wires can be fed through holes, connected and then switches pushed in. Not sure about later models, maybe switches  should be installed before dash is fitted

·         Install Speedo then Tach

·         Clamp and connect driver’s air vent hose previously left unclamped

 

Mark.

I would’ve thought it would be a good idea to get it down on suspension and wheels to adjust the door gaps, chassis spacers etc, as that’s all dependent on when it is all bolted up tight. My panel gap at the rear changes significantly when jacked up at the rear. Might prevent chipping off or scuffing new paint.

Kevin

[stuart]

1 hour ago, boxofbits said:

. My panel gap at the rear changes significantly when jacked up at the rear. Might prevent chipping off or scuffing new paint.

Kevin

If it does then your chassis isnt as good as it could be. If you have a good chassis then nothing should change from having the chassis and shell on stands placed under the wheel centre line to being on its wheels, furthermore if your suspension needs height setting then that would confuse your gapping even more.

Stuart.

[Richard Pope]

I'm about to start the re-building of my totally stripped restoration so a timely question too. Having built two kit cars (not the bolt together types) the simple answer is no instructions work for anyone with the best motto in my book being 'just follow your nose'. What seems right is right.

[boxofbits]

1 hour ago, stuart said:

If it does then your chassis isnt as good as it could be. If you have a good chassis then nothing should change from having the chassis and shell on stands placed under the wheel centre line to being on its wheels, furthermore if your suspension needs height setting then that would confuse your gapping even more.

Stuart.

I’ll have to look at that at the weekend, and where I had the stands under it. From memory I had them under the outriggers that hold the trailing arms, but I’ll need to double check. 
 

Kevin

[Tim D.]

1 hour ago, Richard Pope said:

I'm about to start the re-building of my totally stripped restoration so a timely question too. Having built two kit cars (not the bolt together types) the simple answer is no instructions work for anyone with the best motto in my book being 'just follow your nose'. What seems right is right.

Added to this advice. Every 30 mins or so step back and think about whether  there is something you missed which will mean having to undo what you just did. 

Tim

[Hawk]

On 1/25/2022 at 7:40 PM, Tim D. said:

Added to this advice. Every 30 mins or so step back and think about whether  there is something you missed which will mean having to undo what you just did. 

Tim

This is great advice. 

I also photograph everything when I rebuild and make notes so I don't forget about hidden fasteners and tips to avoid skinning knuckles / dislocating my wrists.  

[RogerH]

11 minutes ago, Hawk said:

This is great advice. 

I also photograph everything when I rebuild and make notes so I don't forget about hidden fasteners and tips to avoid skinning knuckles / dislocating my wrists.  

Indeed. My two rebuilds started before strip down.

Photograph everything.

Also tag the connectors on the looms so you know where the new one will go.

Roger