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My daily driver heater core is very badly corroded and unrepairable. 

I'm considering a Moss core but they aren't cheap especially with delivery here. 

What are the options?

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I spent a long time looking for well-priced supplier for a replacement heater matrix, in the end I think saved a fiver!  
perhaps your existing one could be repaired by an alternative rad-shop.

Hope you have better luck than I did :)

……. Andy

Edited by AndyR100
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There are a couple of complete replacement ones from the likes of T7.  https://www.t7design.co.uk/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v-187-d1e-05a.html   This is the type I am about to fit in my car.      

They require a fitting kit.  Revington does a complete kit that comes with fittings at 3 times the price.   https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1395k/name/kit-heater-upgrade-tr2-3b

I have bought and fitted full assemblies and just the core from  Clayton.

https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/heaters/triumph/

annd the whole assembly.
 https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/circular-heaters/

 

image of Smiths original to T7. Unit

 

 

image.jpeg

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Go for the T7 if your not worried about originality its more efficient and smaller so theres more room behind the dash.

https://www.t7design.co.uk/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v-187-d1e-05a.html

I make my own brackets as the Revington kit is expensive.

Stuart.

1879581686_011(2).thumb.JPG.81ae95726fc7a1f2954aa9d68fd33e05.JPG

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9 minutes ago, rcreweread said:

Hi - any competent general radiator rebuilding company should be able to recore your existing unit

Cheers Rich

Not a skill I have found in UK which is why we went with the Clayton replacement core

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Peter - OK, I stand to be corrected but I'm sure that's what my local radiator reconditioning company told me - unfortunately, I can't check with them as they shut up shop for good at Christmas. However I have found another firm a bit further away ( Sheldrake and Wells in Ipswich) who I will shortly be visiting with some OE TR4A rads for recoring so will ask them then - I'll take along one as an example and let you know what they say.

Cheers Rich 

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2 hours ago, rcreweread said:

Peter - OK, I stand to be corrected but I'm sure that's what my local radiator reconditioning company told me - unfortunately, I can't check with them as they shut up shop for good at Christmas. However I have found another firm a bit further away ( Sheldrake and Wells in Ipswich) who I will shortly be visiting with some OE TR4A rads for recoring so will ask them then - I'll take along one as an example and let you know what they say.

Cheers Rich 

I suspect they will take one look at the way its constructed and say no.

Stuart.

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This company, NRG, appear to offer a Clayton replacement for the Smiths circular type. They still have the original tooling to make these in copper, originally manufactured in the 1950’s as per many cars and bus cabs of the era. I note some have mentioned the Clayton version but not this particular company.

https://radiator-repair.co.uk/classic-vintage/classic-vintage-heaters/

Kevin

Edited by boxofbits
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6 hours ago, stuart said:

I suspect they will take one look at the way its constructed and say no.

Stuart.

I've tried two in Sydney and they said there was no chance they could do it economically. Mine is corroded through in numerous places. I've tried various epoxy type products in the radiator water which work for a month or so but then it springs a leak in a new spot. 

Edited by John McCormack
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12 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

There are a couple of complete replacement ones from the likes of T7.  https://www.t7design.co.uk/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v-187-d1e-05a.html   This is the type I am about to fit in my car.      

They require a fitting kit.  Revington does a complete kit that comes with fittings at 3 times the price.   https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1395k/name/kit-heater-upgrade-tr2-3b

I have bought and fitted full assemblies and just the core from  Clayton.

https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/heaters/triumph/

annd the whole assembly.
 https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/circular-heaters/

 

image of Smiths original to T7. Unit

 

 

image.jpeg

A very useful post indeed, thank you.

I was initially thinking of the T7 but the lack of a fan control and the nuisance of making the fittings etc gave me pause for thought.

I have emailed Claytons to get a price for their replacement heater core. 

In the absence of a better option, it will be one of these two.

It is the height of summer here so an ideal time to replace the knackered heater.

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1 minute ago, John McCormack said:

A very useful post indeed, thank you.

I was initially thinking of the T7 but the lack of a fan control and the nuisance of making the fittings etc gave me pause for thought.

I have emailed Claytons to get a price for their replacement heater core. 

In the absence of a better option, it will be one of these two.

It is the height of summer here so an ideal time to replace the knackered heater.

Have you got the heater out yet?   Does the fan blow ok?

Think about looking at the fan motor.  Minimum you should do while it is accessible is lubricate the top and bottom bearings properly.   Worth taking the motor to bits too if you are confident and cleaning and polishing the commutator.
Be really careful not to break the Bakelite internal base plate the wiring and brushes attach to, as they are very delicate.

The brushes may need replacing but only worry about that when you see them.  
 

Clayton supply a motor, you would need to confirm with them if it is a direct replacement for your existing one.

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3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Have you got the heater out yet?   Does the fan blow ok?

Think about looking at the fan motor.  Minimum you should do while it is accessible is lubricate the top and bottom bearings properly.   Worth taking the motor to bits too if you are confident and cleaning and polishing the commutator.
Be really careful not to break the Bakelite internal base plate the wiring and brushes attach to, as they are very delicate.

The brushes may need replacing but only worry about that when you see them.  
 

Clayton supply a motor, you would need to confirm with them if it is a direct replacement for your existing one.

Again good info. I replaced the motor some years ago with a modern one. It should be fine but will check while it is out. 

 

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Clayton replacement (the finned coil type) fitted a few years ago. Billiant, well over twice the heat output and fast to get hot. Transformed the car, needs no modifications and looks right. I did have a rattle from the element-case which was fixed with a small rubber pad poked in behind one of the 3 clips - should have checked before I installed it. Looked at some second hand Landy heaters as the cores on one model are the same but, as with any 60 year old radiator, they were hopeless. Clogged up with paper-thin water tubes.

I beleive Clayton made the original heater for Smiths who addded the motor.

MikeJ 

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10 hours ago, John McCormack said:

A very useful post indeed, thank you.

I was initially thinking of the T7 but the lack of a fan control and the nuisance of making the fittings etc gave me pause for thought.

I have emailed Claytons to get a price for their replacement heater core. 

In the absence of a better option, it will be one of these two.

It is the height of summer here so an ideal time to replace the knackered heater.

For the T7 You can use your original heater rheostat to control the fan and the fittings as you can see from my picture are just two pieces of 20mm x3mm bar bent up to suit and bolted to the dash support brackets, a lot easier to fit than the original. Plus you have the bonus of a whole lot more room behind the dash. Its the same output as the Clayton and so much cheaper too.

Stuart.

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50 minutes ago, stuart said:

For the T7 You can use your original heater rheostat to control the fan and the fittings as you can see from my picture are just two pieces of 20mm x3mm bar bent up to suit and bolted to the dash support brackets, a lot easier to fit than the original. Plus you have the bonus of a whole lot more room behind the dash. Its the same output as the Clayton and so much cheaper too.

Stuart.

Sounds convincing!

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25 minutes ago, John McCormack said:

Sounds convincing!

Its why we fit them.

Stuart.

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4 hours ago, stuart said:

Its why we fit them.

Stuart.

 

4 hours ago, stuart said:

Its why we fit them.

Stuart.

It is why I have gone that way too.   My only gripe is that the vents will not fully rotate when fully open.  The inner bit strikes the fan case.    Moving the fan outside the case gets rid of that problem but makes the heater bigger by 1 1/2”.  I have now made a couple of adaptor sleeves to move the vents away from the case enough to allow the fan to be repositioned back inside the case.   

Stuart.  Does the LH demist tube get horribly close to the glove box on RHD cars the way you have installed?   I currently have no glove box to test.    I notice T7 sell a raft of outlet vents and adaptors in the HVAC section I am thinking of adding another closeable vent in the big plate, that would add more draught to the footwells.

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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17 minutes ago, Charlie D said:

I found this page a while ago.

Full details about how to make your own core.

I would guess £25-£50 in materials.

http://www.damtp.cam.ac.uk/user/cm214/forum_pics/heater.pdf

Charlie

Good article.  
 

restore the flaps too with replacement creamy white handles.   https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281616447610?hash=item4191a5f87a:g:gP4AAOSwUV9WpAVK

6FC743A2-AD51-4BDC-92BD-0A1493838679.jpeg

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2 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

 

It is why I have gone that way too.   My only gripe is that the vents will not fully rotate when fully open.  The inner bit strikes the fan case.    Moving the fan outside the case gets rid of that problem but makes the heater bigger by 1 1/2”.  I have now made a couple of adaptor sleeves to move the vents away from the case enough to allow green fan to be repositioned back inside the case.   

Stuart.  Does the LH demist tube get horribly close to the glove box on RHD cars the way you have installed?   I currently have no glove box to test.    I notice T7 sell a raft of outlet vents and adaptors in the HVAC section I am thinking of adding another closeable vent in the big plate, that would add more draught to the footwells.

No it works fine if you just offset the unit slightly.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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9 minutes ago, stuart said:

No it works fine if you just offset the unit slightly.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart.   Offset it will be, but not so much as I cannot operate the side nozzle.

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1 minute ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Thanks Stuart.   Offset it will be, but not so much as I cannot operate the side nozzle.

If you look at my picture you can see its offset to the right to clear.

010 (2).JPG

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