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I am looking for a sealer for the new flexible connections from the metal pipe supply to the H6 SU carbs on my TR3A 1958. Last few years I have used Heldtite which works well. This year I was out in the sun and read the instructions. It was all fine until I read the last sentence. The sealer is not resistant to Ethanol.

Can anyone direct me to a e proof  fuel sealer, possibly made by Loctite. I do not want a permanent connection but a sealer which will allow the joints to be undone if necessary in the future.

I have had all this sorted out for years until I read the instructions. It is a new year!!

Thanks Richard & B

 

 

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Well spotted Richard, news to me too. This is used by some classic car restoration companies and the petrol/refining industry have used it for decades, I'm retired now so don't know if that is still the case. I have not needed to use a sealant on TR petrol piping joints but it's everywhere else!

I have sent Heldite a question about blended petrol to clarify if the restriction is only for pure ethanol. Not surprised, like ethanol, it is plant based.

I'll post any response.

ps..Threebond silicone sealer is good but it does not stay liquid for very long.

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30 minutes ago, Lebro said:

You should not need any sealer

+1  The seal is a metal-to metal compression one at the olive, the threads do not need to be sealed.  If there is leakage when the joint is done up tight, something is wrong either with the olive or its seating and that should be sorted rather than bunging things up with goop. 

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1 hour ago, mikej said:

 

ps..Threebond silicone sealer is good but it does not stay liquid for very long.

Don`t know about Threebond as I have never used it, but ordinary silicone sealer is a no no where petrol is concerned, it turns to a snotty goo.

Ralph

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2 hours ago, Lebro said:

You should not need any sealer on that small flexible pipe. It uses an olive to seal to the float chamber.

Bob

The pipe connection up by the radiator, to the new flexible is an olive and works well. My SU carbs ,H6, are connected by a large bolt with a washer each side of the banjo. So I have joints where a fuel sealer is needed. The exhaust is underneath, so there are washers here and I am not keen to risk even a small drip. So I plan to use Heldtite unless there is a better sealer available.

Thanks

 Richard & B

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Banjo joints shouldn't need sealer either Richard. A banjo can take far more pressure than the couple of psi that the fuel pump gives, without leaking.

 If they leak, either the mating surfaces aren't flat or the washers are faulty.  Annealed-copper washers were the original I believe but Dowty washers with a viton ring can be used instead. Beware that some of the readily-available 'copper' washers sold now are actually plated steel and won't deform to seal properly because they are too hard. Re-used copper washers ought to be re-annealed before use as they will have work hardened. 

 

 

 

Edited by RobH
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11 minutes ago, RobH said:

Banjo joints shouldn't need sealer either Richard. A banjo can take far more pressure than the couple of psi that the fuel pump gives, without leaking.

 If they leak, either the mating surfaces aren't flat or the washers are faulty.  Annealed-copper washers were the original I believe but Dowty washers with a viton ring can be used instead. Beware that some of the readily-available 'copper' washers sold now are actually plated steel and won't deform to seal properly because they are too hard. Re-used copper washers ought to be re-annealed before use as they will have work hardened. 

 

 

 

+1

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Notwithstanding the fact that a sealant is not needed for petrol pipe connections within a TR, this is the reply from Heldite:

“Thankyou for your query, while we have not tested our Heldite Jointing Compound in conjunction with E-10 fuel, anecdotal information we have would suggest that they are compatible.

For more information, please visit www.rustins.co.uk/rustins “

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Thanks for the answer and the time you spent. I will use Heldite again as before. I am still waiting for the new flexible connectors which were agreed to be with me before 22 December and are now in the post ??

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am also looking for a brake/clutch fluid sealer so that I can seal the two supplies coming out of the fluid reservoir,  when I put it back together. I was thinking of sealing the two outlets and leaving it in the garage with some fluid inside, for a couple of weeks, to check for any leakage. 

The paint work in that part of the engine bay is clean and tidy

Please send any recommendations Thanks

Richard & B

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While on the subject, does anyone know of a neutralising agent for brake fluid. I am thinking along the lines of the absorbent mats you can get to go under the battery. I noticed a spot of brake fluid had escaped from my clutch master cylinder the other day, not enough to worry about, and the cylinders were new last year, but I was thinking of something I could make a small pad from to put under the brake and clutch masters to absorb and neutralise any future leaks that may develop before it takes the paint off.

Ralph

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Silicone brake fluid doesn't strip the paint.

But ALL the rubber parts in the brake & clutch systems should be replaced when changing.

Ian Cornish

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Thanks for the advice. Where can I buy new washers for the connections from my reservoir. I would prefer some material that would last for a long time.

Richard &B

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2 hours ago, Ralph Whitaker said:

While on the subject, does anyone know of a neutralising agent for brake fluid. I am thinking along the lines of the absorbent mats you can get to go under the battery. I noticed a spot of brake fluid had escaped from my clutch master cylinder the other day, not enough to worry about, and the cylinders were new last year, but I was thinking of something I could make a small pad from to put under the brake and clutch masters to absorb and neutralise any future leaks that may develop before it takes the paint off.

Ralph

Hi Ralph,

I replaced my combined reservoir a few years ago because the old one was weeping from a very small corrosion hole.  The new one started to leak from the base connections after a fairly short time and destroyed the paint below it and down the inside of the inner wing and top of the chassis.  (Note: DoT 4 will remove POR15) while the car was parked up for a month when I moved house in 2017.  I ended up removing the reservoir and resealing everything with Seal All, https://www.repairingproducts.co.uk/product/seal-all-gas-oil-resistant-adhesive/ which fingers crossed, is still working.

Rgds Ian

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