62-tr4-DK Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 Hi, I was wondering if a Cork og Silicone gasket for the oil sump exist? instead of the "paper" gasket everyone supplies I have concluded, that my sump do not seal tight against the block, as just about all bolt heads have a drip of oil on them and everything else including the uprated rear main seal are dry. I am thinking that perhaps the sump has warped slightly around the holes, from overtightening over the years. Do you fine chaps any info here... please let me know. regards Niels Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 I went with a cork gasket and made the mistake of tightening to the published torque figures big mistake as it’s too much as the soft gaskets deform too much. I went round the sump pan bolt holes as “dressed” them so they were all flat and used the thin gasket and welseal on all faces. seemed to work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 I’m with Hamish. Firstly check the sump for straightness with a known steel edge. Makes sure all bolt holes are dressed back into shape, they should have raised edges from the bolt side. Refinish with a ball peen hammer and suitably sized socket as a receiver if necessary. Check the whole thing again for straightness. Then and only then think about the gasket. The paper ones work fine. Coat the sump face and the corresponding gasket face with wellseal. Let tack off. Assemble and invert onto a known flat surface. Add weight and leave for 24 hrs. Then wellseal the block face, the exposed gasket face and assemble to the correct torque. If you can resist the temptation, leave for a good 48 hrs before running, much longer if you can. This worked for me for the first time after many years of leaks……I’m asking for trouble, but it is as dry as a bone, even after a good thrash of nearly 3000 miles around the Pyrenees. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 + 1 Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 Cork for me ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 This works for me, 2 paper gaskets, stick one to the block, stick the other to the sump, apply a thin layer of grease to the mating surface of both and carefully torque up the bolts, the next time you need to remove the sump the 2 will part nicely ready to re-use rather than having to scrape off the torn residues. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
62-tr4-DK Posted January 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 Thank you for the input I believe the std gasket is what I will go for. Might also have something to do with finding a Cork gasket within EU.... 3 hours ago, Rob Salisbury said: This works for me, 2 paper gaskets, stick one to the block, stick the other to the sump, apply a thin layer of grease to the mating surface of both and carefully torque up the bolts, the next time you need to remove the sump the 2 will part nicely ready to re-use rather than having to scrape off the torn residues. Cheers Rob Rob, if I understand correctly: ... Engine seen from top to bottom.... Block , gasket sealer , Gasket --- Grease --- gasket , gasket sealer , sump ? 23 hours ago, iain said: I’m with Hamish. Firstly check the sump for straightness with a known steel edge. Makes sure all bolt holes are dressed back into shape, they should have raised edges from the bolt side. Refinish with a ball peen hammer and suitably sized socket as a receiver if necessary. Check the whole thing again for straightness. Then and only then think about the gasket. The paper ones work fine. Coat the sump face and the corresponding gasket face with wellseal. Let tack off. Assemble and invert onto a known flat surface. Add weight and leave for 24 hrs. Then wellseal the block face, the exposed gasket face and assemble to the correct torque. If you can resist the temptation, leave for a good 48 hrs before running, much longer if you can. This worked for me for the first time after many years of leaks……I’m asking for trouble, but it is as dry as a bone, even after a good thrash of nearly 3000 miles around the Pyrenees. Iain Iain, 3,000miles? now that is what I call a roadtrip! Cheers Niels Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 1 minute ago, 62-tr4-DK said: Rob, if I understand correctly: ... Engine seen from top to bottom.... Block , gasket sealer , Gasket --- Grease --- gasket , gasket sealer , sump ? Cheers Niels Peter Hi Niels or is it Peter? ..... yes that's what works for me, ...... got fed up with scraping bit of sealer and gasket off the pan and block years ago, the double gasket also helps with the sealing plus a small blob of RTV round each sump screw. Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 11 minutes ago, 62-tr4-DK said: Thank you for the input Iain, 3,000miles? now that is what I call a roadtrip! Cheers Niels Peter These cars love being used as intended. See last two TRaction for Wayne’s two part account of a brilliant event. Tr Rally Pyrenees. Also on Facebook LBL Rallies. Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
62-tr4-DK Posted January 13, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 9 minutes ago, Rob Salisbury said: Hi Niels or is it Peter? ..... yes that's what works for me, ...... got fed up with scraping bit of sealer and gasket off the pan and block years ago, the double gasket also helps with the sealing plus a small blob of RTV round each sump screw. Cheers Rob Thanks Rob, Well actually my name is double barreled (Niels Peter) think I will give it a go, but bear with me... RTV = liquid gasket? 3 minutes ago, iain said: These cars love being used as intended. See last two TRaction for Wayne’s two part account of a brilliant event. Tr Rally Pyrenees. Also on Facebook LBL Rallies. Iain Iain, i will definitely take a look. Yes I believe they drive better when regularly used. Thank you Gents! Cheers Niels Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 I concur about dressing back any burrs around the holes although TR sumps tend to be pretty robust. You alays had to do it on Pinto rocker gaskets to have any chance of sealing. I have also found that the torque settings can be a bit high and you run the risk of the gasket splitting if you overtighten them. (More so if silicon gasket sealant is used which allows a bit of slipping) Watch the gasket as you get near to the torque setting - do it in stages. If it is out of the car allow the engine to stand on it overnight and before lifting and rechecking the torque. Personally I prefer Hermetite Red (or Hylomar red as it seems to be called these days) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 . RTV = liquid gasket ? = blocked oil galleries when it migrates inside the sump. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ntc Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 15 minutes ago, Motorsport Mickey said: . RTV = liquid gasket ? = blocked oil galleries when it migrates inside the sump. Mick Richards Nope just learn how to use it with a gasket Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 I'll hold your coat Mick. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 13, 2022 Report Share Posted January 13, 2022 23 minutes ago, John Morrison said: I'll hold your coat Mick. John. I'd trust Neil to know how to use it. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 (edited) Is RTV a gasket substitute? it suggests here it is https://www.gluegun.com/blogs/news/what-does-rtv-stand-for RTV Silicone Gasket is a singular component vulcanizing gasketing compound designed to provide reliable gaskets for mechanical assemblies. The product cures upon exposure to room temperature air and will form a tough yet flexible silicone rubber gasket. This product resists weathering and aging, with the ability to withstand the thermal cycle without hardening or cracking. RTV Silicone Gasket can be used to replace most cut gaskets or any dressing. It’s typically applied in sealing panels, window plates or on high-temperature equipment like oven doors. Edited January 14, 2022 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 Never been a fan of RTV as a gasket sealant. Has its uses for filling gaps or instead of a gasket but as Mick says do you really want it getting into the oilways? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
62-tr4-DK Posted January 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 10 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: Is RTV a gasket substitute? it suggests here it is https://www.gluegun.com/blogs/news/what-does-rtv-stand-for RTV Silicone Gasket is a singular component vulcanizing gasketing compound designed to provide reliable gaskets for mechanical assemblies. The product cures upon exposure to room temperature air and will form a tough yet flexible silicone rubber gasket. This product resists weathering and aging, with the ability to withstand the thermal cycle without hardening or cracking. RTV Silicone Gasket can be used to replace most cut gaskets or any dressing. It’s typically applied in sealing panels, window plates or on high-temperature equipment like oven doors. Thanks.. :-) Cheers Niels Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 Locktite 574 is also intended for sealing metal parts without use of gaskets. I used some last week (for the 1st time) on my Jeep Cherokee transfer box, having had to repair it. Unlike RTV it sets in the absence of air, rather than the presence of it. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted January 14, 2022 Report Share Posted January 14, 2022 I did say a small blob round the sump screws not inside the sump!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 26, 2022 Report Share Posted January 26, 2022 A bit late to this post, but regarding RTV as a gasket, a lot of "moderns" use only RTV and no gaskets. From my own personal experience last year I replaced the timing chain on my Renault Trafic van, the kit came with a tube of JB Weld RTV for the large tin chain cover. The cover was a bugger to get off, having been fitted from the factory with a similar RTV compound. 15000 miles later there are no leaks ( well at least not from the timing chain housing). Also overhauled a gearbox for the same van last year, and again, no gaskets, only RTV on the joints. Admittedly you don`t want loads of it oozing into the sump of your TR, so needs to be used sparingly, and I have a paper gasket and wellseal on my sump, but if a blob did detach and get in the oil I would expect the pump strainer would catch it, and if any small bits did get through then the oil filter should remove it I would have thought. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 I've used RTV on the top rocker cover face to cork gasket and left to set. then light wipe of grease on the cork to head face. Cork stays stuck tot he cover ever time I want to take it off and by leaving the RTV to set (on something flat of course) over night you don't have the worry of excess going into the engine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 30, 2022 Report Share Posted January 30, 2022 I do similar, but other way round, I used Wellseal on the degreased cylinder head top face, to stick the gasket to it, then grease on the top face of gasket to seal to the cover. once pressed into shape, it is oil tight, even after many removals of the cover. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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