Cotswoldiver Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 I purchased this rather well made Alicool rad with a fitted SPAL fan from one of the members to use as part of my TR4A engine rebuild. As you can see the sensor is already built into the bottom of the radiator- what EFC would you recommend to control the fans operation a quick search of the usual suppliers seems to only show kits with sensors. Would welcome your thoughts David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 (edited) I assume that 'sensor' is just a fixed-temperature switch David? If so then all you need is a relay and maybe a manual switch for override. This is one way to do that: Edited January 2, 2022 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 +1, just a relay & override switch. The temperature is set (& fixed) by the sensor. you can get them in many different temperature versions, I use a 92°C one. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cotswoldiver Posted January 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 Thank you both, I'll add to my shopping list Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 Hi David, I fitted this type of adjustable temp switch, works very well but I did make one mod to it. Where it fits in my rad its not easy to get to/adjust/find the head of the slotted screw to adjust. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/electronic-fan-controller-with-m22-male-thread-efc-m22 I turned up a "bung" type arrangement out of 20mm clear acrylic, pushed it inside the ali housing and marked where the slotted screw was, pulled it out and drill a hole just the right dia to fit a small flat bladed screwdriver (the type without a wider head) . now I can slide the screwdriver through the hole and it doesn't waggle about and lines up directly with the adjuster screw....simples. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndyR100 Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 I have an identical SPAL fan fitted on an alicool rad - I chose a variable switch, only took a bit of tweaking to get it to come on at the temp which worked for my car. ……… Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 Sorry, but to be honest I can't see the need for an adjustable switch. Once set you should never need to adjust it again - and at that price you could afford to buy a selection of fixed- temperature ones (< £10 each) to experiment with if you want to, and still be quids in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 granted but: I didn't pay anywhere near that kinda money I cant be arsed to keep draining the system each time to get it set up Yea, lazy..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 I went through all this when I had to replace a kenlowe fan an adjustable thermostat with the bulb insert I found the 92- 87 a little too much and went with the 88-79. ( with manual override) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 Hi Nigel, you do not need to drain the system to remove/install a new thermo switch. Simple unscrew and upon removal swiftly pop your finger over the hole. Remove finger to install the alternative. I did this over a number of weeks until I was happy. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 never ceases to amaze me what makes you happy Roger but point taken Although the access to mine is so bl***y stupid it would be easier to remove the car from around it or grow a 14" long finger! (open the list entitled "next time I do this sort of thing" and add the following.....) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 David...I think it important to ascertain the temp range of your current thermo switch. I prefer to fit the switch in the top tank [hottest] as the water temp has already cooled when it reaches the bottom tank....therefore a much lower temp range switch is required if fitted to bottom tank. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted January 2, 2022 Report Share Posted January 2, 2022 (edited) I use this super-traditional, electro-mechanical type...very simple to fit & wire. Not on a TR (my 4A stays cool with standard mech fan in tropical heat), but on my 68 RR that gets temperamental in traffic. US $1.97 31%OFF | 12V 0-120 Degree Electric Fan Thermostat Rotary Switch Radiator Adjustable Temperature Controller Probehttps://a.aliexpress.com/_mN8hwPI Edited January 3, 2022 by ctc77965o Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 If you fit the switch in the top hose or that side of the radiator core, a simple switch to come on about 4 degrees Celsius above the thermostat opening temp will do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 19 hours ago, ctc77965o said: I use this super-traditional, electro-mechanical type...very simple to fit & wire. Not on a TR (my 4A stays cool with standard mech fan in tropical heat), but on my 68 RR that gets temperamental in traffic. US $1.97 31%OFF | 12V 0-120 Degree Electric Fan Thermostat Rotary Switch Radiator Adjustable Temperature Controller Probehttps://a.aliexpress.com/_mN8hwPI . I guess you have a simple electric fan mounted up next to the rad that is controlled by the thermostat switch. Certainly cheaper than an original viscous coupling for the mechanical cooling fan on a 1968 RR. The thermostat alone for that car is almost 50 times the price of the thermostat switch you mention. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 5 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: original viscous coupling for the mechanical cooling fan My early 6.2Litre car has the 4 blade metal fan about half a mile behind the rad with no shroud....now with addition of two 10 inch shrouded pushers up front. The hysterisis on this clunky capilliary 'stat is good...its on-off-on cycles are suitably sedate to suit the vehicle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 4, 2022 Report Share Posted January 4, 2022 My experience with the thermostat in the original Kenlowe kit which I purchased in 1970, was that it worked well until I had disconnected the top hose about 3 or 4 times - thereafter, it wept at the point where the capillary went under the top hose, despite Kenlowe's small rubber seal. With a thermostatic switch, whether located in the top or bottom of the radiator, or in a boss in a metal pipe in the return from bottom of radiator to pump (my choice), it is a matter of fit and forget. Clearly, the setting range (On/Off) for the thermostatic switch will differ dependent upon the position of the switch because heat is being shed as the coolant makes its way from top of radiator round to the pump inlet. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cotswoldiver Posted January 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 17 hours ago, ianc said: My experience with the thermostat in the original Kenlowe kit which I purchased in 1970, was that it worked well until I had disconnected the top hose about 3 or 4 times - thereafter, it wept at the point where the capillary went under the top hose, despite Kenlowe's small rubber seal. With a thermostatic switch, whether located in the top or bottom of the radiator, or in a boss in a metal pipe in the return from bottom of radiator to pump (my choice), it is a matter of fit and forget. Clearly, the setting range (On/Off) for the thermostatic switch will differ dependent upon the position of the switch because heat is being shed as the coolant makes its way from top of radiator round to the pump inlet. Ian Cornish Thanks Ian, I remembered reading your comments about your preference for a switch in the bottom of the radiator in an earlier post so I was quite happy to see the build of this one with it already in situ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 What would the switch temps be top of rad vs in the return tube as I now have both location options Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 I have an IM50090 (86/81) in the return tube from bottom of radiator to pump. As my new alloy radiator has a boss in its header tank, I have a 96/86 thermostat in there (not supplied by Moss), but I think it's a little high and probably a IM50200 (92/87) might be more appropriate. However, in my case, the thermostat in the radiator's header tank is really only there in case that in the return pipe should fail - and I have the original Kenlowe manual over-ride switch on the bottom left of the dashboard (with its little tell-tale lamp). The new radiator has a sucker Revotec fan mounted very close the radiator on purpose-made brackets welded to the radiator's frame, so is an improvement on my old Kenlowe, which was mounted on a stalk ahead of the radiator. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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