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Looking after Leaf Springs


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Years ago I remember we used to blast leaf springs with old engine oil. Don’t see it so much now, but the thought of dry leaves moving against each other in friction cannot be a good thing as ideally they need to slip,  and might just cause the odd breakage and squeak you can never find!

Is it still a good idea to jack up the vehicle to ‘open’ the spring slightly, pressure wash them to remove dirt and grit, and re-oil with a spray gun?

Kevin

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Can't see why not to do it Kevin old oil being used in years past to keep the undersides of cars preserved. It was a practice my farther in law prescribed to undertake prior to winter before the dreaded salt was spread as the cars of the seventies had a propensity to dissolve in water never mind salty water! 

Andy

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I have used motorcycle chain lube in the past as a winter treatment. Comes out as a thin spray and penetrates before leaving a thicker lubricating coating.
there is a risk of grit sticking to it tho but it’s a short term treatment 

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I have taken to using Lanoguard. Derived from sheep wool, therefore green. lanolin is highly effective at rust prevention and lubrication. Every seen a rusty field gate where sheep rub themselves?

Iain

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The friction between the leaves provides a degree of damping.

However, against that is the fact that more expensive automobiles of the 20s and 30s had their leaf springs wrapped, and I suspect that lubricant was applied before wrapping.

Ian Cornish

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Correct, Iain, nor have I ever seen a rusty sheep.

I have purchased Lanoguard and shall be applying some of it to the TR this winter.

And the TR Spares Development Fund (SDF) has purchased Lanoguard to be applied to the cache of panels and other items, known as Alannid's Cave.  Some of us will be having fun undertaking that task!

I'm not certain, but I seem to recall seeing oil/grease nipples on the spring wrapping on some pre-War automobiles - presumably so that more lubricant could be applied without unwrapping.

Ian Cornish

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Interesting this ,

years ago, whilst rummaging at an autojumble - remember those, I found and bought a leave spring greaser.

Looks like a G Clamp with the screw side terminating in something like a chisel tip, that is hollow and fitted with a grease nipple.

Idea is you locate the tip between two leaves, tighten to open the leaf gap, and then grease.

Can't remember ever using.

John.

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1 hour ago, iain said:

I have taken to using Lanoguard. Derived from sheep wool, therefore green. lanolin is highly effective at rust prevention and lubrication. Every seen a rusty field gate where sheep rub themselves?

Iain

Presumably D3 rich then Iain ? I understand about 70% ?of the worlds D3 supply comes from sheeps wool of Chinese origin. 

Mick Richards 

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As said above by Hamish, grease or oil will attract grit, leading to more wear.  While anyone seeking a mysterious squek migh try it, I din't think it's necessary.  Wrapping leaf springs was supposed to protect them from this, and had two types.     A loose cover, to keep the dirt off, typically on luxury cars (http://accentsunlimitedgaiters.com/) and wrapping with tape and cord, which did the same, and stiffened the spring.     Allegedly, for the sportingly inclinded.

MGs seem keen on the latter, EG: https://www.mgcc.co.uk/northamerica/wp-content/uploads/sites/28/2016/12/wrapping-springs.pdf

A memory of my youth was the tins of waterproofing paste stored in our cellar.    Dark yellow and amazingly sticky, it was an excellent firelighter.   

John

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1 hour ago, ianc said:

The friction between the leaves provides a degree of damping.

However, against that is the fact that more expensive automobiles of the 20s and 30s had their leaf springs wrapped, and I suspect that lubricant was applied before wrapping.

Ian Cornish

Yes, seem to remember when I worked at Caffyns there was a couple of cars came in that had wrapped leaf springs. I can’t remember the model, but think it may have been an Alvis or Lanchester, or even a Vanden Plas 4 Litre R.

There is often a topic on here about TR3 spring eyelets becoming absolutely seized solid and unable to be removed. That must mean that the eyelet possibly can’t ‘revolve’ slightly as the spring straightens and would tend to lift the car instead. Surely a result of lacking some periodic maintenance, though with the bushing I’d imagine you’d have to use some form of rubber grease? John’s lubricator find is an interesting one.

Kevin

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1 hour ago, boxofbits said:

wrapping leaf springs with Denso tape. 

Ah…
Denso tape!

The first car I had (1967) was a Triumph Herald with a chassis full of holes. Rather than get it welded up I decided to remove the body, wrap the chassis in Denso tape, and then put the body back on. (The Herald body being in sections proved to be more difficult to refit than I imagined.)

It did not repair the holes, but it prevented the MOT man from seeing them.

Plus we had a lot of Denso tape off-cuts at the GPO. (Used for wrapping cable joints.)

Wonderful stuff.

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5 hours ago, Motorsport Mickey said:

Presumably D3 rich then Iain ? I understand about 70% ?of the worlds D3 supply comes from sheeps wool of Chinese origin. 

Mick Richards 

Yes the Tr is well protected from D3 deficiency:-)

Iain

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1 hour ago, ed_h said:

My GT6 had plastic buttons installed in dimples between the leaves. This allegedly kept the leaves from directly rubbing.  No one has mentioned this, so maybe It's not very common.

Replacement buttons are available, but they are pretty easy to make.

http://bullfire.net/GT6/GT6-8/GT6-8.html

DSC07172a.JPG

Haven’t seen these before. I would’ve thought they would wear away but clearly not! 

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8 hours ago, iain said:

I have taken to using Lanoguard. Derived from sheep wool, therefore green. lanolin is highly effective at rust prevention and lubrication. Every seen a rusty field gate where sheep rub themselves?

Iain

Thanks for that Iain, as a result of your comment I’m planning to rub one of our sheep over Geoffrey’s chassis :huh: hope it doesn’t wriggle too much!:rolleyes:

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1 hour ago, Ben Freer said:

Thanks for that Iain, as a result of your comment I’m planning to rub one of our sheep over Geoffrey’s chassis :huh: hope it doesn’t wriggle too much!:rolleyes:

Shouldn’t do Ben if you have the right wellies.

 

(whoops did I say that out loud ? :ph34r:)

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13 minutes ago, iain said:

Steady chaps you”ll get us into TRouble!

Iain

 

You are the one that introduced us to that sheep lube stuff. 
need to try it instead of the dynax range currently used.

if you protect the brakes I presume you can use it for all suspension components? Vertical  links springs and wish bones etc 

Edited by Hamish
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1 minute ago, John Morrison said:

AH hem, Hamish and others we are a classic car forum, we'll have less smut if you please!

T'was funny though.

John.

Yes John

sorry John
B)

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17 hours ago, Hamish said:

You are the one that introduced us to that sheep lube stuff. 
need to try it instead of the dynax range currently used.

if you protect the brakes I presume you can use it for all suspension components? Vertical  links springs and wish bones etc 

Hi H 

I use it as an alternative to the other rust proofing agents. It’s very simple to apply with a hand sprayer and can be used on all the components you mention. So far I’ve been very impressed. I have no connection to the company, but it’s worth looking at the videos on YouTube. It is very easy to use.

Iain

 

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