Conradski Posted December 20, 2021 Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 (edited) Hi there, Having finished work early for Christmas, my attention has turned to preparing my 6 for the Tour of Cheshire and a trip to the Le Mans Classic. Maybe occasional use At Shelsley Walsh? 1) Where do you find a fireproof bulkhead to separate the cockpit from the tank? 2) what spot lamps do folks recommend and what relay, switch etc as they never come in a complete kit.... Getting ready to order: - sumpguard - Mx 5 seats - new bushes for front and rear suspension -..... Still considering a new fuel tank and Bosch pump... Though the old Lucifer-Lucas was good during our mild summer Compliments of the season Conrad Edited December 20, 2021 by Conradski Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 20, 2021 Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 (edited) I use my TR6 for runs including the Round Britian Reliability Run and the 10 Counties. Definitely advise the MX5 seats, having done 48 hours non-stop twice they are very comfortable. I made my own bulkhead and fitted it, nice project. Rebuilt the suspension completely as part of a chassis change. Superpro polyurethane work well Also fitted relays for the cooling fan and headlamps and ran halogens for a while but changed to LED headlamps for the last RBRR. Great improvement, but you need to make sure the aims are good as they can dazzle. Cheers Tim Edited December 20, 2021 by Tim D. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveB66 Posted December 20, 2021 Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 Hi, Be aware that Motorsport UK don't allow the use of LED, or HID for that matter, bulbs in historic rally cars. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Conradski Posted December 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2021 Thanks Dave B I did not know that. I have LEDs fitted in the side lights but never got round to doing the headlamps....... but I could always interchange between the two as the units I have a plug-in, so no splicing of wires required. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 Bulkhead is relatively easy to make up yourself using 1.2mm Ally sheet and sealer Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 2 hours ago, stuart said: Bulkhead is relatively easy to make up yourself using 1.2mm Ally sheet and sealer Stuart. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Conradski Posted December 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 3 hours ago, Hamish said: +1 Hi - do you have to remove the hood to fit the firewall ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Conradski Posted December 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 Also another one for David - can you enter histerics rallies with an LSD in the car? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pheaney Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 Hi Conrad, I found these PIAA 80s to be great particularly with the H4 bulb allowing the extra lighting to be used on both dip and main. At 198mm they fit within the sizing specification for classic events ( 4 lights maximum) so ok for the TR6. https://www.clubmanmotorsport.com/product-page/piaa-80-series-lamps-road-rally-pack They seem to be out of stock at present,I found Rob Brook to be very helpful though . NB He recommended 2 x drive beams rather than one of each. I have a pair of replica Cibie lights on the TR6 certainly not as good as the PIAA. These Ripca relays have proved to be very reliable. I run a new cable from the battery to a separate lighting fuse box end then down to the relays using original cables for switching (Plus the new cables for supplementary lights and fan). https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/169/category/36 I use a Revington sump guard a bit fiddly to fit but really necessary ! Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 9 minutes ago, Conradski said: Hi - do you have to remove the hood to fit the firewall ? No that picture was from a car "In build" though it would probably make it easier if you just unbolted the hood rear deck bar and then you could put the hood up and lift the rear up and drape it forward over the frame so you could see what your doing. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Conradski Posted December 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 4 minutes ago, stuart said: No that picture was from a car "In build" though it would probably make it easier if you just unbolted the hood rear deck bar and then you could put the hood up and lift the rear up and drape it forward over the frame so you could see what your doing. Stuart. Thanks and..... my other car is a Volvo 850 T5-R, nice to see a D5 twin turbo as a 'daily driver' Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 5 minutes ago, Conradski said: Thanks and..... my other car is a Volvo 850 T5-R, nice to see a D5 twin turbo as a 'daily driver' Good choice, mine is an ex-Police interceptor so not a standard car Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 Nice job Stuart, as we would expect...Back in 1975 I was surprised to be asked at scrutineering if I had a firewall when I had entered my 6Pi in the Production class at a Drag/Sprint meeting...So I too fashioned one out off an aluminum sheet (not as neat as Stuarts!) Mine was held in place with the screws that retained the vinyl trim. The Scruts seemed quite happy with it! And I've left it in place even though in a fire it's probably as safe as a Chocolate Fireguard! One thing I found out the hard way was...dropping the clutch at high RPM for several runs destroyed the Thrust Washers, which required an expensive bottom end engineering repair job! So anyone contemplating full bore 'Racing' starts, I recommend converting the Thrust washers to the full 360 degree conversion (Engine out job!), or at least replacing the stock White Metal ones with Bronze Thrust washers. It's an easy drop the Sump and End Cap job, and poke the old soft ones out and replacing them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
CP26309 Posted December 21, 2021 Report Share Posted December 21, 2021 52 minutes ago, Conradski said: Also another one for David - can you enter histerics rallies with an LSD in the car? Who would know you had one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Conradski Posted December 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 9 hours ago, pheaney said: Hi Conrad, I found these PIAA 80s to be great particularly with the H4 bulb allowing the extra lighting to be used on both dip and main. At 198mm they fit within the sizing specification for classic events ( 4 lights maximum) so ok for the TR6. https://www.clubmanmotorsport.com/product-page/piaa-80-series-lamps-road-rally-pack They seem to be out of stock at present,I found Rob Brook to be very helpful though . NB He recommended 2 x drive beams rather than one of each. I have a pair of replica Cibie lights on the TR6 certainly not as good as the PIAA. These Ripca relays have proved to be very reliable. I run a new cable from the battery to a separate lighting fuse box end then down to the relays using original cables for switching (Plus the new cables for supplementary lights and fan). https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/169/category/36 I use a Revington sump guard a bit fiddly to fit but really necessary ! Paul. Thanks great information, much appreciated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 22, 2021 Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 As regards what’s allowed or not here is a starting point. http://hrct.co.uk/ Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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