Hamish Posted November 28, 2021 Report Share Posted November 28, 2021 Hi folks I’m after your wisdom and advice on storing a fully functioning TR3a engine long term. I am in the process of having an 89mm engine built and fitted so I will have, my now spare, class winning engine to store. I was considering spraying all the crank internals and rocker mechanism with something like a motorcycle chain lube. As it will stick long term. And fill the bores with oil ? ( I guess the best would be to submerge in a barrel of oil but that won’t be happening !!!) over to you for real world tried and tested methods thanks H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted November 28, 2021 Report Share Posted November 28, 2021 H, I have been storing my spare complete engine for years. I gave it an oil change, removed the plugs put engine oil in each bore, plugs back in. I turn the engine over by hand every year. The engine is keep in my dry garage under a heavy duty sheet. regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted November 28, 2021 Report Share Posted November 28, 2021 52 minutes ago, Hamish said: I guess the best would be to submerge in a barrel of oil but that won’t be happening !!! I don’t know how true the story is, but a long time ago when I worked for the USAF I met a bloke who told me he had been looking for an old 50 gallon oil drum to cut in half and make into a barbeque. By chance he went to an airbase auction where there was a brand new sealed oil drum as one of the lots labeled as “Contents unknown”. He bid on it and won, but when he came to put it in the back of his van it almost broke the tail lift with its weight. Sure enough, when he got it back to his yard he drilled a hole and oil came out, but not as much as he had expected. On slicing the drum in half for his barbecue he discoed a brand new Jeep engine. Apparently that was the way the spare engines were packed and stored. Or is it just a tale… Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted November 29, 2021 Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 Hi Hamish,o cot My solution was to use Outboard motor fogging oil, squirt it through plug holes and turn the engine over a few times to coat cylinder walls. also exhaust side spray to coat exhaust valves and stems. Then remove the rockers and shaft coat that with fogging oil and wrap with cloth also coated in oil. Seal the openings with cloth and tape. This prevents the valve springs having load on for the duration also prevent damp air getting the bores. Fill sump till it wont take any more. Worked for me. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted November 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 Thanks guys. I will pick and mix the advice I think. but I like the idea/logic of “winterising” like an outboard. I have done that a few times in my life. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nobbysr Posted December 18, 2021 Report Share Posted December 18, 2021 In the past i have used engine protection oil which carries a greater corrosion inhibitor for the external parts Croda Chemical do some excellent products . A cheap solution to mix chainsaw chain oil with engine oil or vertical slideway oil, the tacky additive, which which used to be Paratac , gives the oil a sticky stringy properties that ensure it stays where its put . Castrol, BP and Shell has have some oils which provide waxy coatings that will sty flexible The Shell Ensis range is good place to start , BP Stemkor ( some of these have been replace after BP purchased Castrol), the solvent based ones were very good but HSE issues have forced them out of the market . I have known people fill up the bores and forget, in one instance leading to bent conrods all the best Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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