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oil leak contiued


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Hi

Just an up-date re. oil leak mentioned here a week or so ago.

It looks like the crankcase cover gasket that is the source of the leak.

Is it a big job to replace this? And is there any other work that would be worth carrying out whilst the a gasket

is being fitted?

Any advice/guidance would be appreciated

Best Wishes

Ernest

 

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Hi Ernest,

It is interesting that you have tracked this down to the gasket, I’m surprised it “failed” in this dramatic way. In my experience gaskets start leaking a bit and gradually get worse.

I replaced the front crankshaft oil seal recently and this was the source of most of my engine oil leakage, this also sprayed around the engine bay because it leaked onto the fan. You have to remove the timing cover to do this and of course this means replacing the gasket…….am I right in assuming this is the gasket you are talking about?

If it is just the gasket or not, if you have the cover off it might be worth changing this seal (and the sleeve it runs on) in any case.

Your question is interesting because “big job” is always a relative question and depends on your abilities too. Like I said, I recently did this myself and considered it quite a big job. Not especially difficult once I had the right tools, especially the split bearing puller to remove the seal sleeve, but it took me a while to do. In any case you need to remove the radiator, the water pump (new gasket needed when refitting of course) the fan and extension piece, remove the cross member/tube and loosen/unbolt the steering rack to do this which is quite interesting to refit! On refitting care is needed to get the right screws and bolts in the right holes and not to over tighten the one(s) that go into the aluminium block or you can easily strip the thread. Also care is needed with the chain tensioner to make sure this is in the right orientation, it isn’t difficult to get this wrong.

 I don’t know if I have answered your question, but I hope my experience is of some help to you.

Cheers, Rob.

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I know we don't speak the same language in the US as you guys in the UK, but I'm thinking Ernest is asking about the gasket for the sump  (oil pan), when he says "crankcase cover gasket"  not the timing cover gasket...

Am I wrong ?

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Thanks very much for the comprehensive feedback Rob, yes it is the front crankcase oil seal.

Having an outline of your own experience is very helpful.

 

Thanks for the comment Ken, but I did mean the timing chain cover - I asumed this would be the 'crankcase cover' due to our calling the bottom end (crankshaft) cover the 'sump'.

Best wishes and have a good weekend both!

Ernest

 

 

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There are 2 bolts that hold the sump pan that go right thru inside the sump, all the others are blind holes so should be oil free. I have fitted copper washers and some sealant to these and so far seems ok, the bolts are located on left side of the engine, front corner and left rear corner, not the 2 in the middle.

John

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On 11/5/2021 at 11:29 AM, Rob Y said:

Hi Ernest,

It is interesting that you have tracked this down to the gasket, I’m surprised it “failed” in this dramatic way. In my experience gaskets start leaking a bit and gradually get worse.

I replaced the front crankshaft oil seal recently and this was the source of most of my engine oil leakage, this also sprayed around the engine bay because it leaked onto the fan. You have to remove the timing cover to do this and of course this means replacing the gasket…….am I right in assuming this is the gasket you are talking about?

If it is just the gasket or not, if you have the cover off it might be worth changing this seal (and the sleeve it runs on) in any case.

Your question is interesting because “big job” is always a relative question and depends on your abilities too. Like I said, I recently did this myself and considered it quite a big job. Not especially difficult once I had the right tools, especially the split bearing puller to remove the seal sleeve, but it took me a while to do. In any case you need to remove the radiator, the water pump (new gasket needed when refitting of course) the fan and extension piece, remove the cross member/tube and loosen/unbolt the steering rack to do this which is quite interesting to refit! On refitting care is needed to get the right screws and bolts in the right holes and not to over tighten the one(s) that go into the aluminium block or you can easily strip the thread. Also care is needed with the chain tensioner to make sure this is in the right orientation, it isn’t difficult to get this wrong.

 I don’t know if I have answered your question, but I hope my experience is of some help to you.

Cheers, Rob.

Be very careful of the Zinc alloy block, people refer to it as aluminum, it is not, its known in engineering circles, as monkey metal and the threads strip very easily. This is often the source of oil leaks, as it was in my case. TR GB make a replacement out of M/S, a very good mod. if you have stripped the engine down?

Bruce

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1 hour ago, Mike C said:

Are TR6 engine components made of monkey metal? I hate the stuff.

Very few thank goodness.

Door/window handles, rear light bodies but the one part that gives the most trouble IMO is the Sealing Block on the front of the engine. It is good at hiding where oil leaks come from?

Bruce

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7 hours ago, astontr6 said:

Very few thank goodness.

Door/window handles, rear light bodies but the one part that gives the most trouble IMO is the Sealing Block on the front of the engine. It is good at hiding where oil leaks come from?

Bruce

Thanks. The body parts I knew about, but I never knew the sealing block was  made of monkey metal, horrible stuff that it is.

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When I last had the sump off I replaced all of the hole-through bolts into the block including the front (and rear, but these are blind) seal retainers with studs loctited into place.  I still managed to pull the thread on one of the front block fasteners by trying to torque to spec (I should have been more cautious) so made up a stepped stud to go in the original hole tapped out to a larger size.  I was able to do this with the sump still in place with a lot of care taken to contain and retrieve all of the debris.  Worked out fine and now oil leak free.

16365767769760.jpg

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7 hours ago, KiwiTR6 said:

When I last had the sump off I replaced all of the hole-through bolts into the block including the front (and rear, but these are blind) seal retainers with studs loctited into place.  I still managed to pull the thread on one of the front block fasteners by trying to torque to spec (I should have been more cautious) so made up a stepped stud to go in the original hole tapped out to a larger size.  I was able to do this with the sump still in place with a lot of care taken to contain and retrieve all of the debris.  Worked out fine and now oil leak free.

16365767769760.jpg

My next step when needed.

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