rjs993 Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 Hi, I am fitting new top ball joints to a 1964 TR4 front suspension and need help with a couple of (related) questions! How do you stop the ball joint turning as the nut is tightened (to attach the ball joint to the vertical link)? If this needs the taper to seat in the vertical link to stop it turning .... how is this done? Thanks Robert Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 Tighten it down with a plain nut. This will anchor the tapers together. The replace this nut with the Nylok. oger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 Alternatively, carefully jack up under the lower wishbone to put some pressure on the ball joint taper and it should grip enough to start tightening. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 I’m with Roger. I always use a plain nut to get the taper seated before replacing it with the nyloc after learning the hard way many years ago. While the ball joint is disconnected replace it with one of Amsteer’s full articulation joints so that you won’t have to replace them again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bfg Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 4 hours ago, RogerH said: Tighten it down with a plain nut. This will anchor the tapers together. The replace this nut with the Nylok. Roger Thanks Roger I didn't know that .. Like button wanted Any reason not to then use a lock washer ? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 23, 2021 Report Share Posted October 23, 2021 36 minutes ago, Bfg said: Any reason not to then use a lock washer ? Yes Pete- the common spring lock-washers may be better than nothing but according to the NASA Fastener Design Manual "The lockwasher serves as a spring while the bolt is being tightened. However, the washer is normally flat by the time the bolt is fully torqued. At this time it is equivalent to a solid flat washer, and its locking ability is nonexistent. In summary, a lockwasher of this type is useless for locking." Suspension joint needs either a castellated nut and split pin or a nylok, to be safe. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 12 hours ago, rcreweread said: Alternatively, carefully jack up under the lower wishbone to put some pressure on the ball joint taper and it should grip enough to start tightening. Cheers Rich Or if you haven't got an old useable nut ( you should have from the the old joint but they are not always the same thread), put several washers on first so you can get the new nut to tighten up before it hits the nyloc bit, and once it's gripped, undo and remove the washers, then re-tighten - lots of options Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 48 minutes ago, rcreweread said: Or if you haven't got an old useable nut ( you should have from the the old joint but they are not always the same thread), put several washers on first so you can get the new nut to tighten up before it hits the nyloc bit, and once it's gripped, undo and remove the washers, then re-tighten - lots of options Cheers Rich +1 for emergency option Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 24, 2021 Report Share Posted October 24, 2021 Never ever re-use a Nyloc nut unless its only to get you home. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted October 26, 2021 Report Share Posted October 26, 2021 Be careful! The vertical link ball joint sold by Moss and many of the other usuals when I last purchased one a few years ago is the wrong size. The taper pin is too wide and will not sit correctly in the link. The nut is also larger than the standard size used on the TR4. I reported this to Moss and they replied this is the one they usually supply - even though I was able to show an original of the correct size. I eventually sourced the correct size from Revingtons - and a few days later also found a correct sized QH NOS ball joint. I don't know if Moss has since changed their offering to the correct size - but take care. JEFFR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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