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Best position for trolley jack and axle stands


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I think there are details of this in the brown book. Placing the jacks as close to where the wheels are mounted to the chassis is a good idea. I have a hydraulic scissor lift and because of the chassis I run two 2 inch square section steel bars across the lift so I can lift from the chassis close to wheel mounting points.

Cheers

Tim

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Almost anywhere under the chassis is fine. Don't mistake the radiator shield as part of the chassis. Use the diff at the rear with a trolley jack.

Jerry

Edited by jerrytr5
wrong forum!
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All ?

Why would that be then? It's connected to the chassis and has a cast casing. Are we talking about a TR6?

Jerry

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Diff is perfectly safe with a TR6 and a quick way of getting both wheels off the ground but if you are worried, jack up using chassis and put an axle stand in .. and repeat on other side.

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I have used the diff multiple times with no sign of damage. When on its wheels the weight of the rear of the car is carried by the rear springs which tie in the the part of the chassis onto which the front of the diff is mounted. Lifting using the diff would place the lift point slightly further back but shouldnt be too much of an issue?

Tim

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As long as the stands are in line laterally with the wheels you wont have trouble with frame flexing and the doors will open and close normally.  I’ve never used the differential to lift the rear but if the mounts are in good shape it should be fine.  Once I have the front up on stands I place the jack in front of the rear wheel with the cup in the T-shirt area with a piece of wood that goes from side to side of the narrow part of the frame and lift there.  It seems to work fine.

Edited by charlie74
Splelnig
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2 hours ago, jerrytr5 said:

All ?

Why would that be then? It's connected to the chassis and has a cast casing. Are we talking about a TR6?

Jerry

Because the two bolts that hang the TR6 diff from the cross brace are known to be weak at those two points ! So why risk straining them? 

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59 minutes ago, CP26309 said:

Because the two bolts that hang the TR6 diff from the cross brace are known to be weak at those two points ! So why risk straining them? 

If all four studs have been reinforced don't see any problems. If not then maybe not.

Andy 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I put a piece of 4" x 2" to spread the load under the front cross member jack up and support.

Then use two hydraulic jacks in unison to lift the rear, locating the jacks on the chassis where it levels off by the bump stops.

If I want the car higher I repeat the process, front then rear.

If the cars going be up for a while I leave the wheels on and support on sleepers with chocks ( don't use concrete blocks) also 4 axle stands placed under the chassis for extra safety.

Lots of different methods, this is a bit long winded but works for me.

Phil

 

IMG_7747.jpg

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On 11/2/2021 at 7:56 AM, Nigel A said:

This is what I have just done to remove the gearbox

My mind is boggling just thinking about how you drove the car up opposing sets of ramps!

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