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Front Wing, Too far gone?


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Hi

I'm struggling with a decision on whether to start to try to repair my front wing, it needs a lot of work or buy a new replacement and try to get that to fit.

Are the current replacements any better a fit?

 

Thanks

Paulwing2.thumb.jpg.67f22f2b0c0f2b850bd3f90fb4a1ce56.jpg

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That is repairable but a ot of work.

Don;t buy the bottom section repair panel as it is useless - make your own.

The rear edge down the 'A' post will allow you to make a good fit with the door.

The front end around the side ;oght is more demanding but do' able

 

Roger.

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Doable but will require some skill and some lead too.

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 541.jpg

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Hi, the new Bastuck panels are expensive, they feel slightly thinner but I suspect they are from a harder grade of steel, they fit well with little or no work and once fully fitted, painted and undersealed you would be hard to find any difference to an original panel, I've recently fitted 2 front wings to my 4A.

Cheers Rob  

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8 minutes ago, Rob Salisbury said:

Hi, the new Bastuck panels are expensive, they feel slightly thinner but I suspect they are from a harder grade of steel,

Cheers Rob  

Hi Rob,

 I suspect that they are made from the standard type of mild steel that is easy to press out.

If they went to the trouble of using a harder grade then they may as well of used the thicker steel that isn't especially hard.

I think if I was going for a new wing I would go for a light Alloy  version so as to minimise corrosion.

 

Roger

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‘I think if I was going for a new wing I would go for a light Alloy  version so as to minimise corrosion.’

Roger’ are you sure that would be a good plan? I have a feeling (I’m dragging up A level physics from 55 years ago) that you might be setting up an electrolysis cell which would promote oxidation/rust.


james

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Hi James,

you are correct.  The steel will steal electrons from the Ali and cause the Ali to become weak.  Some Ali Alloys are better than others but I'm sure the TR repro Ali wings will be the cheap alloy.

There are jointing compounds that do a good job in isolating/insulating steel and Ali from each other. Even a good paint finish will help.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Hi Roger, I really do wonder about us lot being concerned with corrosion, I mean my original sills and wings had gone after around 10 years but that was with hard everyday use living outside all year round and with the minimal underbody protection that the factory provided back then, even so much of our cars have lasted 50 or 60 years (about a thousand times longer than Triumph intended!!), we are now rebuilding them with superbe metal protection, the cars are cosseted, live in garages only come out when the sun shines!! and, if there is any petrol left for them, will outlive our grandchildren!! ...... have you been near one of the alloy wings? ... you only have to blow on them gently and the metal moves!!! .... I think they are for the race boys who want everything as light as possible.

Cheers, Rob

PS. the Bastuck wings once in position and fully bolted up are just as solid as a StanPart wing.    

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Hi Rob,

you are spot on.  I lived my life on light alloy aircraft and know what it can and can't do.  Some of the alloys can be easily worked and then tempered into rock solid structures.

It would be nice to have wings worked in 2024-T0 and then heat treated to 2024-T3 or 4 - I think they make brick 'outhouses' from it.

But as you say a decent steel repro wing should out live most of us.

 

Roger

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Thanks for the encouragement etc.

It sounds like it is doable, so I've decided to give it a go, nothing to lose really apart from a bit of time. (The hardest bit for me is getting started)

I thought about the 2nd hand route, but from the photos I've seen, they all still need work and are typically a long distance away from me, to have a good look before buying. I guess this may be a Plan B though.

 

Cheers

Paul

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

After some initial setbacks, I'm starting to make some progress on my wing and am now about to tackle the front area.

Before I start to make it fit to the grill etc, I noticed my bonnet gap widens towards the front and is a bit larger than I wound like (same on both sides). 

Is it possible to adjust this by bending the top of the inner wings?

Cheers

Paul

wing.thumb.jpg.4e639159394b024480710626fd0d6337.jpg

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23 minutes ago, gloide69 said:

After some initial setbacks, I'm starting to make some progress on my wing and am now about to tackle the front area.

Before I start to make it fit to the grill etc, I noticed my bonnet gap widens towards the front and is a bit larger than I wound like (same on both sides). 

Is it possible to adjust this by bending the top of the inner wings?

Cheers

Paul

wing.thumb.jpg.4e639159394b024480710626fd0d6337.jpg

That’s a fair gap, and I don’t think bending the inner wing in is the answer or will make much difference. Conversely mine were too narrow, and at the bodyshop we could not seem to influence it much by bending the inner wing lip.

Has the inner wing been changed or repaired? Ideally it should all be gapped before welding.

Kevin

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Hi Paul,

you will need to bring the front of the inner wings in. I think it is caused by the front grill panel flattening (it should be curved).  If you remake the curve the inner wings will then want to come in.

I have the same effect and one day, just one day I will look at it.

 

Roger

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36 minutes ago, gloide69 said:

After some initial setbacks, I'm starting to make some progress on my wing and am now about to tackle the front area.

Before I start to make it fit to the grill etc, I noticed my bonnet gap widens towards the front and is a bit larger than I wound like (same on both sides). 

Is it possible to adjust this by bending the top of the inner wings?

Cheers

Paul

 

Yes I have had to do this a number of times, the wing will follow the line of it once its bolted up but can sometimes try and pull it back so its a bit of trial and error, often need to bend it too far and then it will come back into the right line once its all tightened up. Dont forget to keep trial fitting the grill also to ensure the front end follows the edge of it and that its even on both sides, sometimes it needs a bit of lead.The filler panel should be welded to the inside of the wing though do be careful to match it to the edge of the front panel as well as the wing as the repros are a bit poor fitting.

Stuart.

 

Marks TR5 460.jpg

Edited by stuart
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FWIW I have also had to do the opposite as the gap wasnt wide enough due to a DPO fitting stuff wrongly

Stuart.

 

jeffs tr5 019.jpg

jeffs tr5 020.jpg

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